Beginners Pattern Drafting Info, courses, design and pattern cutting

How to Become a Fashion Designer: The Essential Skills You Really Need

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As an industry professional one of the most common questions I am asked is: “How do I become a fashion designer?”

It’s an exciting goal, but it’s one that’s often misunderstood. Many people think becoming a designer is all about sketching ideas or choosing fabrics. In reality, those are only a small part of what a designer actually does. The following blog post will outline a suggested route you can follow – one that will give you the valuable skills you need to make your dream to become a designer a reality. In addition to that it will give you a valuable skill set that will make a real difference to your career!

I believe that to turn your ideas into real garments, you need to understand the technical side of design — and that begins with pattern cutting.

Why Pattern Cutting Is the Foundation of Design?

Pattern cutting is the bridge between creativity and reality. It’s how your ideas become tangible garments that fit, drape, and move as you imagined. Without this knowledge, you’re designing in theory — but not in practice.

Let me give you an example, I often see designs, they are no doubt really creative, but they lack the technical details that are needed to translate the design into a wearable garment.

A really common mistake among new designers is overlooking the technical elements that make a garment work. It’s easy to sketch a beautiful idea, but without understanding construction you might forget essential details like armhole seams, darts, or shaping, especially in fitted woven garments. Many beginners also don’t think about how someone will actually get into the garment, or how the fabric will behave once it’s made. Understanding whether your design is suitable for a woven or a knit, and how each behaves technically, is a key part of turning a sketch into a successful, wearable garment.

Many designers rely on others to “interpret” their ideas. But truly great designers understand pattern cutting. They know how fabric behaves, how shapes translate to the body, and how to bring a concept to life.

That’s why pattern cutting is the most overlooked — yet most essential — skill for anyone serious about fashion design. In reality any modern design job will require knowledge of pattern cutting and sample making at the very least.

Your Pathway to Becoming a Designer – Each of the title links below will take you to the individual courses blog post, when you will find a more detailed description of the course contents and links to the course itself which are held over on Teachable.

To help aspiring designers build a complete, professional skill set, I’ve developed a structured progression route through my courses. Each course builds on the last, combining traditional craftsmanship with modern digital tools. I have utilised my skills gained from over 35 years as a freelancer in the fashion industry and a career as a Senior Fashion Lecturer in a top UK university to build a range of detailed and affordable courses.

Here’s how your learning journey could look:

    1.    Professional Pattern Cutting Course

The perfect starting point. This course teaches you the fundamentals of pattern drafting — the technical foundation of every garment. You’ll gain the essential knowledge that underpins all successful design work. This course teaches you good working practice, whilst giving you a solid foundation to build your career upon.

    2.    Adobe Illustrator for Pattern Design

Once you’ve mastered manual pattern cutting, this course shows you how to use Adobe Illustrator as a pattern cutting tool. You’ll learn to draft, edit, and prepare patterns digitally, and how to format them for sale to the public — an invaluable skill if you plan to sell your own digital patterns or run a design business online. This is where you can pick up the knowledge to enable you to gain an income from your skills.

    3.    Advanced Pattern Cutting Course

This course takes your skills to a higher level. You’ll explore creative pattern cutting methods, learn to experiment with shape and structure, and discover how to use 3D software to visualise and test fit. It’s designed to prepare you for the future of fashion, where digital and creative processes work hand in hand. This is a really creative course and it’s where you will really develop your skills to prepare you for the future!

    4.    Pattern Grading Course

Finally, you’ll learn to grade your patterns for multiple sizes — a vital step in developing professional collections or ready-to-sell pattern ranges.

Specialist Options

If your interests lie in children’s wear, I also offer a Baby, Child and Teen Pattern Design Course. It focuses on age-specific fit, proportions, and sizing — helping you design patterns that work beautifully for younger body types.

Preparing You for the Future

My courses are designed not only to teach you how to make patterns, but to prepare you for where the fashion industry is heading — blending technical knowledge with creativity and digital innovation.

Coming soon, there’ll be a new course: Sewing for Small Business, aimed at those who want to produce and sell their own designs professionally.

Final Thoughts – There are no quick fixes or hacks – it takes a lot of hard work to become a designer.

My best advice is that if you dream of becoming a fashion designer, don’t skip the fundamentals. Pattern cutting is what turns your creative ideas into wearable garments — it’s the skill that connects imagination with craftsmanship.

By learning these core techniques and developing your digital pattern skills, you’ll be ready to create designs that are not only beautiful, but also technically sound, production-ready, and future-proof.

You can explore all of my courses over on teachable too and start building your pathway to becoming a professional designer today.

If you have any questions at all please email me at onitnotinit@mail.com and I will do all I can to help.

Happy Designing and Pattern Cutting,

Nicola

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Current Projects

Making The Most of Your Basic Bodice Block -FREE COURSE

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This brand new course is designed to help you make the most of the Design Cut & Wear basic bodice block.

If you have purchased the block and don’t quite know where to start, this course will guide you.

Access to the first few parts of the course is free and guides you through making sure your bodice fits you – after all there is no point starting to create patterns if you haven’t perfected the fit.

You can also download the 35 page guide to fitting your bodice block and some free 1/4 and 1/2 scale versions too!

You will also learn how to fit the block at the bust and lengthen and shorten the block for larger and shorter bodies – I will guide you on the professional methods for creating a toile. All this is free!

You can choose to join the full course for a very small fee – There I will show you the basics of pattern drafting, we will work together to create a basic shirt block, a shift dress block and a selection of sleeve styles too! PLUS a handy collar draft! All focused on using your bodice block.

I will show you how to move the darts around the front and back bodice blocks.

There are many bonus lessons plus an exciting area called ‘PATTERN MAPS’ where I help students with ‘MAPS’ detailing how to create popular bodice styles.

My courses are always ‘Live’ and I am there to help and answer questions – As my courses grow I continue to add more exciting content!

The video above gives you a run through the course content.

HERE IS A LINK TO THE COURSE PAGE

If you haven’t already purchased my Design Cut & Wear Basic Bodice – it can be found here – in the following formats

THE READY PRINTED AND POSTED TO YOU VERSION

THE PDF PRINT AT HOME VERSION

THE AO COPY SHOP VERSION

THE ADOBE ILLUSTRATOR VERSION

THE READY PRINTED AND POSTED VERSION WITH ADDED SPOT AND CROSS PAPER

I ALSO HAVE A PLUS SIZE VERSION – AND THE COURSE METHODS WILL ALSO BE SUITABLE FOR THIS TOO – YOU CAN BROWSE MY ETSY SHOP FOR THE PLUS VERSIONS

As always if you have any questions then please ask.

Happy Sewing & Pattern Cutting,

Nicola x

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Current Projects

From Still Image to Catwalk Strut: Exploring Style3D AI’s Image to Video Feature

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Style3D AI has been quietly transforming the way we visualise fashion designs—and one of its most intriguing new features is image to video. At first glance, it sounds like something out of a sci-fi film: take a still image of a garment, and within a few minutes, generate a video of it walking, turning, and flowing on a model. But it truly is fantastic and I really love it! So I thought I would share it here with you and make a quick video of how to use it.

It’s actually a surprisingly practical and usable tool and can be put to great use.

What Is It?

The image to video feature lets you upload a flat image of a fashion design or in my case I have been using my Clo3D and Style3D images of the avatars I am fitting my patterns and blocks to— but this could easily be a photograph, a digital sketch, or even a render—and then the software animates it using Style3D’s built-in AI. The result is a video of the outfit in motion, shown on a lifelike model walking a virtual runway or turning to show all angles.

The other day I had a rather rude customer that said – my swim suit with shorts had no sign of shorts – I quickly uploaded the image of my toile in 3D and asked the image to video to make me a clip – of a model wearing the swim suit pattern ….. I made it into a clip for instagram too … so quick and easy!

This isn’t a 3D render based on sewing patterns or CAD files—it’s AI-driven animation that fills in the gaps, adding depth, drape, and natural movement to an otherwise flat image – it can even work out what the back of the garment would look like too.

How Does It Work? – You can follow my video above and see how it works and have a try for free – if you use my code then you have 50 free extra credits to add to the 50 they already give you.

Here’s a quick rundown of how to use it:

    1.    Upload Your Image

Choose a clear, front-facing image of your design. The AI works best with full-length shots, ideally showing the entire garment.

    2.    Select a Model and Motion

Style3D lets you’d some text – for example – female model facing forwards, looking at the camera – turning around etc –

    3.    Generate the Video

Within 2 to 5 minutes, Style3D animates your garment. You’ll see the model wearing your design, walking, turning, and giving a 360° impression of the look if that’s what you have asked for.

    4.    Download or Share

Once generated, the video can be downloaded for use in presentations, social media, or internal review.

What’s It Good For?

This isn’t a replacement for true 3D pattern simulation, but that’s not really the point. The strength of this feature lies in quick visual storytelling.

    •    Concept testing: Get a fast idea of how a design could move without building a full 3D sample.

    •    Portfolio building: Give life to still sketches or fashion illustrations.

    •    Client presentations: Show a garment in motion before sampling has even begun.

    •    Social media: Create dynamic content that goes beyond static flat lays or technical drawings.

OR JUST FOR FUN!

The Results: Surprisingly Convincing

While it’s not perfect for detailed fit analysis, the AI is surprisingly good at suggesting fabric movement and silhouette. In particular, soft draping, oversized pieces, and flowing garments tend to look great in motion. The tool doesn’t always get complex construction or tight tailoring right, but for first impressions and storytelling, it’s genuinely impressive.

A Word of Caution

This isn’t a substitute for proper pattern cutting or garment testing—but it’s a brilliant companion. Think of it as a rapid visualisation tool rather than a precision simulator. For anyone working in concept design, digital portfolios, or early client pitches, it’s a fantastic way to bridge the gap between 2D and motion.

⸻

In short: Style3D’s image to video feature does what it says on the tin—takes your static image and brings it to life. And while it won’t replace pattern simulations just yet, it’s an incredibly useful, creative addition to the digital pattern cutter’s toolkit.

If you give it a try please use my code and let me know what you think too!

Link to the site – https://www.style3d.ai

CODE – VDBE9D

Happy pattern cutting & sewing

P.S – I will be covering 3D software use for toiling and testing in my upcoming ‘Advanced Pattern Cutting Course’!

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Current Projects

Unlock Creative Potential with Digital Plus Size Skirt Blocks / Slopers

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I am constantly updating and improving my basic blocks and working on my plus size blocks is something I love to do. If only my time was unlimited!

I have just created a PLUS size set of full circle skirt blocks in UK sizes 20-44 and USA sizes 16 – 40 – the EU size equivalent is also provided as 48 – 72.

As always by blocks come with a detailed set of measurements and as I update all my blocks I am adding ‘Creative User Guides’ and guides to sizing and fit. I feel it’s important to provide as much technical information as I can with each set of blocks.

Here is the creative user guide that comes with this set of blocks –

FULL CIRCLE – CREATIVE USER GUIDEDownload

You can also find a helpful video on YouTube that explains the block and guides you through making the most of this digital block.

I want you to be as creative as you possibly can be with this block, a full circle skirt shape has so much potential, I have included an extra long skirt shape for you to use as a base for bridal trains and evening gowns too!

Have fun using the block!

Happy Sewing & Pattern Cutting!

Nicola

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Grading

Learn Traditional Pattern Grading – Metric & Imperial Rulers – Workbook and Videos!

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If you are not quite ready to take on my ‘Professional Pattern Grading’ course then you may want to take a look at this MINI COURSE. In my mini course I show you a traditional method of grading – often referred to as shift grading. This process involves ‘shifting’ the pattern on the table. I have designed 2 rulers to make this method of grading much easier.

I print my rulers on good quality tracing paper to use manually. Of course they can also be opened and used for digital grading in software such as Adobe illustrator too.

The rulers come with a detailed workbook, which I am constantly updating too.

I have also created 3 videos so far…. more to come… that show how I use the ruler practically too.

This first video shows how I use the rulers to grade skirt patterns
In the second video I show how to add girth to a bodice pattern.
In this video I record the steps to grade for both girth and length too.

I have created a special area here on my blog that contains the workbook and video links for this ‘MINI COURSE’.

If you would like to join me then you can find the link to purchase the rulers and all that go with them and also the password for the private grading area here in my Etsy shop.

If you choose to join me for my ‘Professional Grading Course’ you can find all the details in this post and the good news is that the mini course comes as bonus content when you are subscribed to the professional grading course!

Hope to see you soon,

Happy Pattern Cutting, Sewing & Grading too!

Nicola

P.S I also have some handy grading rulers in my Etsy shop for use in Adobe illustrator, they can be used manually too of course and they have all the grading increments already worked out for you to grade skirt pattern easily!

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courses, Current Projects, Grading

Professional Pattern Grading – Theory and Practice – My Brand New Course!

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Welcome to my latest course! Here you will find a detailed outline of my very latest course Professional Pattern Grading Theory & Practice and a short 5 minute video to introduce you to the course, plus lots more information below.

This is an area of study that is quite ‘niche’ and may not appeal to all, but it is one of my passions and something I have spent my whole career studying and practicing.

As with all my courses it has taken me much longer to write than I ever imagined! I decided to cover the theory of grading by looking at skirt grading first, I will cover trouser and bodice and sleeve and children’s wear grading in later courses that will follow on naturally from this course. In this course I take a deep dive into manual pattern grading theory. The course is designed specifically to teach you the in depth theory of grading through skirt grading.

Grading takes many forms within the fashion industry. I have worked with companies that have absolutely no idea where their grading increments came from and can’t explain the process they use to grade. This is not uncommon, as is the lack of accurate sizing data. This makes it impossible for a company to know if they have the correct grading applied and this in turn leads to many problems later on in the production process.

Body sizes are also changing and many if not all grading textbooks now have outdated grade plans and instructions which are based on out of date body sizes. I will show you how to create your own grade plans from scratch!

You may well be reading this post because you want to learn how to grade professionally, I will show you how to grade, and also explain why we grade the way we do. My courses are not quick fixes, they are extremely detailed with lot’s of theory and this particularly applies to this new grading course

The aim of this course is to introduce you to a range of grading methods and also the theory behind the concept of grading, that way you will be able to understand each and every method of grading you come across within the industry.

This course is a little different to my other courses, in that you may find some of the concepts difficult to understand at first, so I urge students to please take their time and review the lessons several times until they understand, it may take a little while to get there but I am confident you will!

Years of practice and teaching have allowed me to hone my skills so that I can present the key information to you clearly.

There are a couple of things worth mentioning before you embark on a grading course.

No doubt this is a complex area and not for everyone. The saying ‘I can explain it to you, but I can’t understand it for you’ comes to mind.

Sometimes grading isn’t easy, particularly when we move to style grading, however I have structured the course so that we build on your knowledge bit by bit and form a good understanding of the key concepts, so that whatever grading system you are faced with in the workplace, you will have the knowledge to understand its origins.

Grading does involve maths, there is no getting past this, Courses that tell you that you can avoid the maths and that they have a simple and easy ‘hack’ to show you, are not teaching you ‘real’ grading.

So if I haven’t put you off, you can find the full course curriculum below and links to join so let’s begin our journey!

Please note that the curriculum may change and adapt as the course grows, this in normal for all my courses as I am continually reviewing and adapting them!

If you choose to join me for the course we will take this journey step by step and build on each lesson as we go.

You will find a selection of videos, lesson notes and PDF downloads to support each lesson.

The start of the course is more theory based and there is no getting away from this, your understanding of the terms used in grading is essential – this will make it easier in the long run as we move on to the more practical lessons.

As with all my courses I am always here to help you along the way. You will find a comments box under each and every lesson, where you can ask questions, or simply let me know how you enjoyed the lesson. I work weekends and evenings, and if I am awake and have a spare moment I will always get back to you.

If you would like to join the course over on teachable please follow this link, or if you have any questions then please email me directly at onitnotinit@mail.com

You can also find my digital grading rulers and sets of basic blocks fully graded in a range of sizes over in my Etsy Shop.

Finally my best tip on how to learn how to grade, the best way to learn how to grade, is to grade!

See you soon I hope!

Nicola

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Consultancy, courses, Current Projects, design and pattern cutting

Professional Pattern Cutting & Consultancy

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Throughout my career, I have found immense value in balancing freelance work with my role as a university lecturer. As a pattern cutter and grader, I have been able to stay deeply connected to the industry, gaining real-world insights and keeping up-to-date with the latest trends and techniques. This hands-on experience not only hones my skills but also allows me to bring practical, industry-relevant knowledge to my students. By working in both academia and the industry, I strike a unique balance that benefits both my students and clients. By staying actively involved in both education and the industry, I can contribute meaningfully to shaping the next generation of fashion professionals while also continuing to learn and evolve in my own practice.

One of the most rewarding aspects of my work is collaborating with diverse clients, I teach online across a range of courses. In this role, I not only teach online courses to staff and students but also develop innovative digital tools and course content. By tailoring my teaching methods to suit the needs of the individal academy or fashion school, I can provide a more enriching and effective learning experience. Additionally, offering guidance on curriculum planning enables me to shape the future of fashion education, ensuring that it remains dynamic and relevant in a constantly evolving industry.

I have recently been working with a designer transitioning from manual pattern cutting to digital pattern cutting. This opens up a multitude of opportunities to enhance their brand. By embracing digital tools, the designer can now sell garment patterns and a range of basic blocks (slopers) as digital products. This shift not only streamlines the design process but also taps into the growing digital market. This transition has significantly boosted the designer’s brand visibility and revenue streams.

Recently taking on a new client writing a pattern cutting book marks an exciting new project. The prospect of utilizing a lifetime of skills and knowledge to assist in this endeavor is both fulfilling and rewarding. Collaborating on a book project allows for creative input, sharing expertise, and contributing to the dissemination of valuable knowledge within the industry. It’s moments like these that showcase the power of continuous learning and adaptation in a dynamic field like fashion design.

Recently completing a top-secret project has freed up some time for consultancy and online support services. This presents a unique opportunity for collaboration with individuals or businesses seeking guidance in navigating the digital landscape or optimizing their design processes. Whether it’s providing expert advice on pattern drafting and grading, teaching and learning, offering insights on creating digital products, or assisting in streamlining workflows, consultancy services can help clients unlock their full potential. By sharing knowledge and expertise, consultants can empower others to thrive in an increasingly digital world.

If you are interested in exploring consultancy or online support services, feel free to reach out. The consultancy and support packages available are tailored to meet the specific needs and goals of each client, ensuring a personalized and impactful collaboration. Whether you are looking to enhance your brand, optimize your design processes, or explore new digital opportunities, working together could unlock exciting possibilities for growth and innovation. Take the first step towards realizing your full potential by reaching out and starting a conversation today.

CONSULTANCY-AND-SUPPORT-PACKAGESDownload

I look forward to hearing about your exciting plans for the future!

Nicola

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courses, Pattern Cutting Techniques

PROFESSIONAL PATTERN GRADING – DIGITAL GRADING RULERS- Increased Speed & Accuracy!

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In my digital pattern cutting course I show my students how to make digital grading rulers, it takes time, but in the long run it saves a lot of valuable time and really increases the accuracy of your grading.

Many of us pattern cutters and graders are now using systems such as Adobe illustrator and Corel Draw to draft and grade patterns, the downside is that we need to find workarounds to grade, as these systems, are not designed for pattern cutters. The good news is that there are several methods which make grading really easy and accurate in Ai. I do most of my grading in Gerber Accumark, but am just as happy grading in Ai, and have used my grading knowledge and skills to create several methods to grade quickly and accurately in Adobe illustrator. I cover this and much more in my course.

Lots of my students have asked if I would produce my digital rulers as a product for sale, so here is the first one! This is the skirt grading ruler set and it comes with both a multi size ruler and a single size up and down.

This video will explain it all!

Let me know what you think, here is the link to the skirt rules on Etsy too!

I am planning a grading course very very soon, I know it’s not for everyone, but it is my passion! Any comments and ideas would be much appreciated!

Nic x

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Current Projects

Guide to Sizing & Fit – The Raglan Hoody Block / Sloper – With 2 Hood Styles –

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I love a hoody. I live in them! I have developed my basic hoody block into a raglan style hoody with 2 hood options. The block also comes with a free guide, that you can find below as it was too large a file to add to Etsy as it has so many pictures!

I am currently in the process of adding this latest block to Etsy so all versions will be available soon, including the print at home version and the A0 copy shop version and of course the ready printed and posted version too. I may well add an Ai version for my Ai students too.

UNDERSTANDING-YOUR-HOODY-FIT-ADJUSTMENT-Download

As I update all my basic blocks I am adding fitting guides, plus free 1/4 and 1/2 scale versions for practice too!

If you need a link to my Etsy shop – here you go!

Happy Pattern Cutting & Sewing!

Nicola

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courses

Bodice Pattern Cutting & Design for Baby, Child, Tween & Teen – New Course!

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Watch my video to find out more!

This is a vast subject area! This course, Pattern Cutting & Design for Babies & Children- (Bodice Development), looks at bodice development and ventures a little into how to adapt a bodice into a simple dress style too, we will also look at some basic collars and of course sleeves. In this post I will outline my plans for future courses too, which will be natural follow on topics from this course and will be released as they are completed as separate courses. I had to break the course down into individual areas to make both the teaching and learning experience more manageable. It’s also critical that you master bodice development first!

In this brand new course we start with bodice blocks, and learn how to first draft and then adapt a basic knit bodice block (sloper) into a woven bodice, a shirt and dress block and an outerwear block. The course also covers how to draft bodice and torso blocks for tween and teen sizes and looks at blocks for developing figures as girls start to mature. In addition to this the course also teaches you how to create a t-shirt draft and further develops that into a raglan and kimono shape, both very popular children’s wear styles.

Our primary focus in this course will be on using a ‘base’ also known as a basic block or sloper to create a variety of styles for children’s wear.

You may ask – What if I don’t like drafting basic blocks (slopers) and I just want to get on to the style development and pattern cutting phase of the course? Well you could skip the drafting part of the course and pick up my Design Cut & Wear basic blocks, already drafted and tested for you and move straight on to the next part of the course which is style development.

I also have a range of basic blocks designed for small fashion startups that can be found here – Modeliste Creative Basic Blocks.

Once you have the basic blocks we move on to look at ‘style develoment’ I have chosen particular styles to incorporate some of the most widely used techniques in childrens wear as you follow me through detailed videos and PDF workbooks. I also often include a PDF version of the block or style I developed in the lesson too that you can download and print!

When it comes to designing and cutting patterns for babies and children, understanding ease is crucial. I will teach you how to draft and adapt patterns to incorporate that ease through the different age bands.

Who is this course for?

If you are an experienced dressmaker, looking to take your skills to the next level, or perhaps a small business owner starting up a children’s wear label and don’t want to go down the road of using the same patterns as your competitors, someone that really wants to set their brand and designs apart from the rest.

You may be a designer that has lot’s of designs buzzing around in your head and want to explore the intricacies of pattern cutting for babies and children, then this is the course for you.

Here is the curriculum – Please take a look to make sure the course is right for you…

please-take-a-look-at-the-curriculum-and-make-sure-the-course-is-right-for-youDownload

Here are the follow on course I will cover in the future – I am working on them already!

TROUSERS AND DUNGAREES – we take a detailed look at trouser drafting and style development.

BABY SPECIFIC MODULE – INCLUDING BABY ONSIES, BABY SLEEP SUITS AND BABY SPECIFIC CLOTHING – INCLUDING A SECTION ON PREMATURE BABY SIZING AND CLOTHING DESIGN

SPECIAL OCCASION DRESS’S AND SKIRTS – INCLUDING OFF PARTS SUCH AS ADVANCED COLLARS, POCKETS AND ADVANCED DESIGN DETAILS.

ACTIVE WEAR FOR CHILDREN, INCLUDING FUNCTIONAL CLOTHING, DANCE WEAR AND SPORTS WEAR – LEOTARDS & SWIMWEAR

ANY IDEAS? – LET ME KNOW IN THE COMMENTS BOX BELOW!

If you feel the course is right for you then you can find more information about prices and joining over in my online pattern cutting school over on teachable! Please note that if the link doesn’t work you may need to copy and paste it into your browser.

https://patterndesignschool.teachable.com

If you have any questions about the course then please email me at onitnotinit@mail.com.

Please note there are 2 joining options, one is a single payment and the other is a payment plan. Both options offer lifetime access to the course and you can dip in and out and learn at your own pace.

I am always there to answer any questions and there are comments box’s below each lesson. I will also be adding extra content at the course grows so keep an eye on my ‘Pattern Maps’ section for new styles.

I don’t offer coupons or ‘price gimmicks’ my courses are one set price and I try to keep course prices as low as I possibly can to make them accessible to many.

If you are brand new to pattern cutting you may want to take a look at my professional pattern cutting course, which will introduce you to the basic principals of pattern cutting. I also offer a digital pattern cutting course too and you can find all my courses over in my school – Modeliste Creative School of Pattern Design.

Happy pattern cutting!

Nicola

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