The 3D Face Mask Pattern

I have been making these face masks for family and friends, so thought I would share the pattern here on my blog – it’s totally free – you can make as many as you like, all I ask is that you don’t make money from them – I feel in times like this we should help others and not try to profit.

I made the first prototype and then adjusted the pattern to allow more space at the front for breathing.

This is my second prototype!
3D mask! Modeled by my partner Steve! (reluctantly)

Here is the pattern – simply open it as a PDF in Adobe Reader and print – let me know if you need any help – see below for the making guide.

Cut 2 in cotton fabric –

You will need a piece of cotton fabric 20 cm x 60 cm to cut 2 layers

The mask can also be made of terry towelling and in that case you can cut 1 layer of fabric.

Creating the 3D shape.

Sew a small dart at the top – for the nose. Now sew a dart seam at the base for the chin shaping. Press the seams – you will need to clip in at the chin shaping to allow you to press the seam open.

Have the darts going in different directions – to avoid bulk!

I pressed my nose darts in different directions, one to the left and one to the right – to avoid too much bulk at the nose.

Place the layers together – right sides out.

Now place the 2 layers together with the right sides of the fabric facing outwards and use a straight stitch to hold the 2 layers together

Pin the pleats in position – in the direction shown on the pattern piece and sew with a straight stitch to secure. You can do the previous 2 steps all in one go if you are an experienced sewer!

I used FOE – Fold over elastic to bind my mask – mainly because I have plenty of it and also because it stretches so the ties are better. You can also use plain cotton bias binding – see my post on making your own bias binding https://modelistecreative.com/2018/02/19/make-sew-your-own-bias-binding-tape/

– or see my YouTube video on applying FOE if you need any help with this.

Watch if you need to – leave a comment and a thumbs up!

Bind the edges of the mask first – you have already secured the pleats in position with a holding stitch so this should be easier.

I used a zig zag stitch to apply my elastic binding.

Now continue to apply binding to the top and bottom of the mask. I used elastic binding which allowed me to pull a little over the nose and under the chin to make the mask a snugger fit.

leave ends as ties – mine are 20 cm long – you may want them a little longer if you are using cotton bias binding.

All done!

As always I am happy to answer any questions, just leave a comment below.

Happy mask making!

Nicola

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Bodice Dart Manipulation Part 2…both darts at the waist.

Daisy in her half scale bodice block.

Here we have part 2 in the 6 part series on how to move darts around the bodice block. Please take a look and be sure to give me a thumbs up in YouTube and leave a comment or a question. If you subscribe you will be sure to catch all my upcoming videos!

The class materials and half scale blocks are in the members only area here on my blog page, once you are subscribed you will be sent the password!

Click to watch in YouTube and be sure to subscribe.

Many thanks for watching and if you have any ideas for pattern cutting videos, please let me know.

See you very soon with part 3!

Nicola

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The Smock Top ‘Hippy’ Style! – Free pattern giveaway…

The ‘Smock Top’ Hippy Style! – Free pattern!

As this is one of my favourite patterns and the topic of my latest magazine article, I thought I would offer the pattern free for all my readers. If you love it as much as I do you will soon have many different variations hanging in your wardrobe.

Here is the link to a blog post from a little while ago, that covers the smock top making process.

Here are your free PDF pattern and making instructions.

smock top pattern sheets A4 x 42

Happy Sewing, and if you have any questions at all then just let me know!

Nicola x

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The Japanese Evening Bag Project- Detailed Making Instructions

This months ‘DSM’ magazine features the ‘Japanese Bag’ project, inspired by my recent visit to Barcelona and a visit to the wonderful fabric shop called Nunoya, their web site can be found at www.nunoya.com . They will also ship fabric out to you. They stock the widest range of Japanese fabrics in Europe, what a great excuse for a weekend in Barcelona!

I was inspired to make a number of bags from this beautiful fabric, it is quite expensive but you only need a piece 55cm x 30cm for this bag!

Here is your free bag pattern and also a detailed making guide, and once the weather cools down here a little, I plan to make a video of the bag making process, as I am sure you will all love it!

Japanese Bag PDF Pattern

Sewing Instructions J-Bag

Please send me your bag photos and as always I am happy for you to make as many as you like and sell the items you make from my patterns, it’s only the patterns I like to protect.

Next months free pattern is for my most used pattern, I make myself this smock top all the time, with short sleeves, long sleeves, longer hems, it’s so versatile. Make sure you are subscribed and you won’t miss out. In fact I am just off to make one for a wedding I am going to in August!

Happy sewing!

Nicola

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The Monster Tooth Pillow Project! For readers of the DSM

As some of you may know I live in France in the beautiful region of Deux Sevres, and this is the first of my contributions to the regions English language magazine, the Deux Sevres Monthly.

I will be writing a creative article for the magazine each month and I wanted my first contribution to be simple, colourful and fun! Each of the articles will also be here on my blog along with any free patterns and downloads.

This is a great project for teaching young people to sew, I started sewing as a very young child and my favourite thing to make was a tiny mouse. I used any scraps of fabric I could find to make them and the mice were all called ‘Grub Street’ . They lived in a match box! Sewing is a fantastic skill to have and how wonderful it is to teach a child to sew! These pillows are very popular in the USA now and children leave them out for the tooth fairy.

All you need to gather together is…

And you will need access to…

Here is a detailed PDF download that contains the pattern and all the making instructions!

JUST CLICK BELOW TO DOWNLOAD YOUR FREE PATTERN & DETAILED MAKING GUIDE

monster pillow learn to sew instructions and pattern

I would love to see your creations so please e-mail them to me and I will publish them!

If you have any questions at all then please just ask, I am always happy to help!

I hope to see you next month for another ‘creative’ project and if you have any requests then please let me know what you would like to see.

Happy Sewing,

Nicola

 

 

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A Free Half Scale Dress Block! – As A Thank You!!

Thank You & some exciting Information about my upcoming course!

Thanks to all my blog subscribers that took the time to subscribed to my YouTube channel! I am now well over my target 100 subscribers – as a Thank You – I have uploaded a free half scale dress block and it’s in the subscribers bonus contents page for you! Plus some more exciting news below about my upcoming pattern cutting course in France.

Just a little note about scaled blocks – first

When you are practising your pattern cutting, or even developing a style, it’s sometimes useful to do your initial experimentation with half or quarter scale blocks!

This can save paper, however I do recommend using full scale blocks as much as you can – why you may ask?

Working in full scale helps you develop an ‘eye’ for proportion and scale, its amazing, as you become more proficient in pattern drafting, you develop a second sense and can tell immediately when something doesn’t quite measure up. This is a difficult skill to master if you always work in quarter or half scale.

However scaled block do have their place and are perfect for sketch books and experimentation.

I am pleased to announce (dates to be confirmed) that I can now offer a weeks intensive pattern cutting course in France, during September. The course will be limited to 3 or 4 people and will be fully catered. Plus each course member will receive a full set of my Modeliste Creative Colour Blocks! More details and pictures of the accommodation will be available on my courses and professional development page very soon. If you are interested in the course please get in touch!

Thanks again!

Nicola

 

 

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Free Wrap Around Head Band Pattern & Sew Along!

Ever wondered what to do with all those scrap pieces you have?

Here is a video sew along for the ‘wrap around head band’ Ideal for those long thin scraps that are often left over from our sewing projects.

Headband sew along 1 Click to watch the video and download your free PDF pattern from the members only area once you have subscribed!

Keep watching as I am working on a wider version for long hair today.

And if you get the time – please subscribe to my YouTube channel!

Happy sewing,

Nicola x

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Making A Lovely Evening Bag – Great Project For Small Pieces!

The evening bag sew along.

Download your free pattern by clicking the link below – simply print the pages on your regular printer and stick together to form the bag pattern!

Free pdf evening bag pattern 4 x A4

This is a lovely project, not as simple as it first appears, for the free PDF pattern please download the file from the link above.

You will need to gather together…

  • Bag main fabric- 55cm in length and 37 cm wide
  • Bag lining fabric – the same quantity as above
  • 1 zip- minimum 28cm long – you may need to buy a 30cm zip, don’t worry if you have a longer zip as it can be trimmed back.
  • Matching thread
  • Contrast or matching fabric for a strap – 4 cm wide and 50cm long
  • Some wadding if you want to pad the strap a little

Cutting out

The pattern piece can be cut as one whole piece as pictured here on the lining fabric, I chose to have a seam on the main bag piece as I wanted to place the print of the fabric in the best position I could. The main bag pattern piece can be cut in the same way as the lining if you are using a plain fabric.

  • Cut 1 bag pattern piece in main fabric
  • Cut 1 bag pattern piece in lining fabric
  • Cut one strap piece 4 cm x 50 cm – this is variable and depends on your personal choice, the strap can be in a contrast fabric or the self fabric, it can also be padded with piping cord or wadding as I have chosen to do.

Lets sew the bag together

We will start with the lining – place the right sides of the lining together and stitch the side seams taking 1 cm seam allowance.

Pop the lining to the side for now and we will work on the main bag.

The main bag construction – inserting the zip

The first step is to place your zipper foot on the machine.

  1. Pin the zip tape to the seam allowance at the top edge of the bag and sew across. Press the zip in position.
  2. Place the other edge of the zip at the opposite top edge of the bag opening and sew across.
  3. Press.

The loop straps

The straps are very much up to you. You could use cord, or ribbon, or contrast fabric.

I chose to make straps in the bag fabric and pull some wadded filament through to pad the strap.

The straps now need to be attached to the bag each end of the zip

One last step – before the lining in attached to the main bag

The bag opening needs to be completed before attaching the lining to the main bag

Now follow the same steps you took to sew the lining, sew the side seams and the base. You may not be able to sew right to the top of the bag as the straps are quite bulky if you padded them, but this can be completed by hand if you want to.

Lining the bag

Now all that remains is to attach the lining to the bag at the zip seam allowance. Most of this can be done by machine, but you will need to leave a gap to turn the bag through and that can be finished by hand.

Firstly place the lining inside the bag as it would lie when finished, pop a couple of pins there to hold it in place.

My completed bag! – they are ideal as gifts or lovely as a wedding or special occasion bag.

Why not add some design details such as a lovely fabric flower, keep posted and I will show you how!

Make sure you subscribe for more free projects.

Any questions or comments then please let me know.

If you are inspired by making this bag then this is another lovely bag to make!

Click this link to go to the pattern on Etsy!

Nicola x

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How Much Seam Allowance Should I Add To My Patterns?

Seam Allowance Guide

Its sometimes difficult to know exactly how much seam allowance to pop on our patterns, there are ‘rules’  that apply to this area of pattern cutting, or rather guidelines that you should follow.

Here is some information that I hope will help guide you in making those decisions.

As a general rule, confined or extremely curved areas such as neck line, armhole, and some intricate style seams, will require less seam allowance than straight long seams.

Double or bagged out areas will also require less seam allowance to reduce bulk.

Where a neat inside edge is required, facings are the ideal solution – but we will look at these in some detail in another post.

Some examples of straight long seams in a garment would be:

  • A straight skirt hem
  • A side seam
  • A center back or center front seam

Other factors which can influence the amount of seam allowance (SA) you need:

  • Type of fabric – for example a very bulky fabric will require less seam allowance. If the pattern you are using has more seam allowance than you need, you can always trim down the SA after sewing.
  • How much a fabric frays – Voile and sheer fabric can fray badly so will need more seam allowance or a french seam, which again needs more SA.
  • The stability of the fabric – unstable fabrics that shift around a great deal such as chiffon require more seam allowance,
  • Type of seam, firstly in relation to its function, for example does it need to be strong, as in work-wear or jeans. Secondly decoration is also a factor, for example a sheer fabric that is transparent may require a decorative seam such as a French seam and this affects the seam allowance.

When I say ‘more seam allowance’ this could simply mean adding 1.5 cm SA instead of 1 cm SA.

If you are new to sewing and need some practice, here are the links to 3 beginners PDF tutorials on Etsy, the first covers sewing for accuracy and had lots of sewing templates for you to download.

The second covers the very important skills of sewing corners and curves and along with detailed guidance also give the templates you need to create the practice samples.

There is also a third project in this series that covers seam types and also gives you the templates to practice with.

Click on the highlighted links to find these projects.

The method of construction also influences the amount of seam allowance you should add. For example if you are using a serger or overlocker, then you only need the width of the overlocker bite (width of the stitch). This would be the case with knit fabrics.

Below is a table to give you some guidance for woven fabrics:

Seam Allowance Guide

Click this link to download the handy PDF file for Seam Allowance Chart download .

Please note- When producing garments for an industrial setting, small seam allowances are acceptable. Professional machinists are accustomed to sewing with 1 cm seam allowance. However the home sewer requires more seam allowance to produce a garment of high quality.

Some home sewing patterns allow less than 1 cm seam allowance and this makes it very difficult for a home sewer with a domestic machine, the width of the foot and the design of a domestic machine is not ideal for very small seam allowances. It is much better to allow more seam allowance and trim down the excess after sewing the seam.

I hope this helps and if you have any questions or comments then please get in touch.

Happy Pattern Making & Sewing

Nicola x

 

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