Current Projects, General Info

Basic Bodice Block – (Sloper) Designers Guide to Sizing & Fit – A Great Starting Point for Beginners

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If you already have, or are thinking about getting my basic bodice block, this post will hopefully give you all the information you need – if you make it to the end of the post you will find a little ‘gift’ too!

Let’s first take a little tour around my ready printed version of the basic bodice block – this version is printed and posted free of charge worldwide! This is a popular choice for those that don’t want the hassle of printing at home and sticking the pages together, or using a copy shop – this version is in black and white.

You can find this version on Etsy – here

I have now developed the block into digital versions, including an Ai version, an A4 / US Letter Versions and an A0 copyshop version, if you prefer to go digital!

The A4/US letter version of the bodice block has been designed so that you can compile the pages to create the front bodice on it’s own, then the back, and then the sleeve – this method improves the accuracy a lot!

The digital versions can be colour or black and white printed and all versions now come with a 32 page guide to sizing & fit and free 1/4 and half scale blocks for practice too.

The digital versions of the blocks are also layered, this means you can open the files in Adobe reader and choose only the sizes you want to print, or all of them, the choice is yours to make!

You can find all versions in my Etsy Shop – https://designcutandwear.etsy.com

In the 32 page guide to sizing and fit I have provided lots of information to help you work with the bodice block, including very detailed measurements! As a fashion lecturer I am compelled to go into great detail, I just can’t help myself.

Many of my customers are small fashion startups that are time poor, and need all the help they can get!

Let’s take a very quick run through the bodice guide PDF –

In addition to the fit guide, I also send out 1/4 and half scale versions – they are great for practice and note keeping, I use my half scale versions all the time to work out detailed and complex drafts, and save paper!

I also have several YouTube videos to get you started, and you can follow along as I move darts and cover some of the basics –

https://www.youtube.com/@ModelisteCreative

If you purchase any one of my blocks I am also, always here to help and answer questions and of course you can always join me for a pattern cutting course.

My courses are detailed, no quick fixes or gimmicks, they are there for those that want to learn professional methods from a professional pattern cutter, there are no shortcuts unfortunately, and if you want to learn how to be a professional pattern cutter, one that has the skills to work in the industry, then my courses are for you!

You can find detailed posts on my bog that outline my courses and the curriculums they cover.

As always if you have any questions, please ask.

I nearly forgot…. Please use the following code in my Etsy shop for a discount on my basic blocks – BLOG15BB – click the link to shop!

Happy Sewing & Pattern Cutting.

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Fitting at the Bust, General Info

What is Neck Width and How Does It Effect Bust Fit?

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What is neck width? In the diagram above you can see that I have extended the Center Back (CB) and Center Front (CF) upwards and squared a line from each shoulder point – the measurement of this line is the neck width. As you can see above the back neck width is wider than the front neck width. Is this normal you may ask, and the answer is yes -it’s perfectly normal, in fact a sign of a well balanced neckline. In this post we will go on to look at the reasons for this difference and how this information can help your bust fitting.

Let’s first understand what the implications to fit are if the back neck width (BNW) is NOT wider that the front neck width (FNW). The answer to this is that the front neck will gape. My example block above is somewhat of an extreme example as it’s a contour fitted block that needs to fit really well at the above bust area. It’s a block designed for corsets and fitted garments and it needs to be snug! I have also designed this block to accommodate a C cup, so this adjustment actually makes that ‘difference’ between the BNW and the FNW wider still.

You can see in the image above how we can measure the back and front neck widths and compare them, here we are only measuring half, so of course you would need to double these quantities for the total neck widths.

In a block for a B cup (standard fitting block), the average difference between the two widths, meaning how much the BNW is wider than the FNW is generally around 6mm to 10mm – however this ‘difference’ will increase if you are fitting a larger bust or have fit issues and a gaping front neckline area, or a garment that does not sit well above the bust level. We are very concave above our bust level at the front and there can often be fit issues here when trying to fit a larger cup size.

Let’s take a look at an adjustment we can make to accommodate a full bust and get a better fit above the bust level, you may have already made a full bust adjustment and are still having fit issues, or your block may simply be gaping at the neck and not sitting correctly, here is a simple adjustment you can try.

First I am going to close out the dart at the shoulder, as a temporary measure to allow me to make the fit adjustment with no dart in place, it can be pivoted back after.

With the dart out of the way, now we are clear to make the FNW adjustment.

Plan the cut lines as shown on the front block above – we are going to cut this section of the block and move it over to the right to reduce the front neck width even more, this is a minor adjustment and I would advise doing it in stages, particularly with the block I am using above as it has already been fine tuned for a close fit above the bust.

What we are doing here is reducing the front neck width even more, for a larger cup size, the maximum adjustment I would recommend would be a total neck width adjustment of 1.25 cm (half an inch) to a regular block, or pattern you are working on. It’s always best to make these adjutments slowly and keep checking the fit.

Here we are essentially ‘fine tuning’ the fit, this can be a solution if the bust fits well for you, but the neckline is still not fitting as you would like it.

Here you can see that we have reduced the front neck width, we would now need to trace off this pattern section and smooth out the armhole as we have a tiny ‘jog’ at the armhole curve. Please note that these small fit adjustments do not effect the fit of the back at all. having made these changes you can now pivot the temporary dart back to the shoulder if you like.

I hope this post has helped a little. You may find all this slighly confusing if you have not read my previous posts on bust adjusment, It’s a popular topic for me and you can find lots more information in this series of posts on fitting at the bust!

Happy sewing and pattern making,

Nicola

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design and pattern cutting, General Info

Freelance Pattern Cutting & Grading…

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I am regularly asked about freelance pattern cutting or grading, and while I am always happy to take on a challenging project I want to make sure my clients know how much time it takes to develop a pattern from a design, test the pattern, produce a ‘toile’ and ensure the sizing and fit are perfect.

Even a simple pattern, developed from a basic block, can take a couple of hours to produce.

I do have a wide range of basic blocks that you can purchase and develop your own patterns from, and if you have basic pattern cutting skills then this is always the most economical option. If you need help selecting the most suitable block then just ask, I am always happy to help. I want my clients to know that the price I charge for a basic block or pattern is not the same as the price I would have to charge for bespoke patterns. Most of the blocks and patterns I sell in my shops have taken me a couple of weeks at least to perfect, it is only the fact that I hope to sell multiple copies that helps me keep the price so low.

If you don’t have the skills just yet to produce your own patterns then read on…

For those projects I take on I charge an hourly rate and for a pattern maker with my experience and expertise the going rate is £40.00 per hour (some pattern cutters and graders charge up to £70.00 per hour). To give you an idea of the time it takes to produce a simple pattern, this would be around 2 hours, of course if you want a toile, pictures, size charts, etc then you can see how the cost can add up.

I hope this information is helpful and gives you an idea of the work involved and the time it takes. Knowing all this if you would like me to give you a quote for your freelance pattern cutting needs then just let me know!

Freelance Pattern Cutting & Grading Service

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bra and panties design, design and pattern cutting, designing lingerie, General Info, Lingerie Design, Pattern Cutting Techniques, size charts

The Contour Fitted Dress Block- my favourite block!

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The contour fitted dress block is one of my oldest blocks and one of my favourite blocks. I have used it over the years so many times that it’s pretty worn. I thought I had better digitize it and save a digital copy before it wore out! I didn’t stop there, as I only had the block in a size 12, I decided to develop a range of contour fitted dress blocks as I am no longer the size 12 I was as a 21 year old student at the London College of Fashion!

Over the years I have updated and modernised the block and it’s my go to block for any fitted styles, bra patterns, corsets etc.

Instead of the normal process I follow for drafting a block and grading the draft, I decided, as the grading would have been too messy, to draft and apply all the contour fitting lines to each individual size. The sizes available come in a size 8 UK (4 USA) to a size 18 UK (14 USA). Of course all the contour fitting lines can be ignored if you wish and the block can be used as a regular fitted dress block.

The contour fitting process involves taking extra suppression (darts) out at the cleavage, the neck line, around the full circumference of the bust, and also at the side seams. If you are interested in darts I have a whole workbook on them!

As with all my blocks, I sew up the draft after I have made any changes and make a fit assessment, I am really pleased with the fit of this block.

Fitting Photographs –

The images below shows the fit of the dress block – without the extra contour fitting applied – please note this dress block can be used as a fitted dress block – simply use the darts without the extra contour fitting.

As is also my custom, I measure every single area of the blocks I draft, and having done that to the 10th of a millimetre, I also then convert the measurements into inches for my ‘inch’ customers.

Sometimes maybe I go into too much detail, an old habit from working as a garment technologist!

This dress block is drafted to the hip, I prefer this as I can then lengthen the block as I need to according to the sketch I am working from, I simply have to add a rectangle below the hip line.

As the contour fitted dress block can be quite daunting, I have produced a ‘pattern sheet’ to illustrate how the block can be used to create a fitted evening top with bra cups. I supply this as a free sheet with the contour fitted dress blocks when customers buy the whole range of sizes, With this blocks set you can just buy the size you need as a single block and sleeve.

The evening bodice sewn up as a toile gives you an idea of the type of fit and the styles that this block can produce, once the contour fitting is applied.

I hope this post has inspired those of you who have the block to go ahead and make some contour fitted styles, I would love to see what you make so please send me the photos!

I have this block as a physical pattern sheet and also as a PDF instant download available in my Etsy shop.

Happy Pattern Cutting!

Nicola

 

 

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Beginners Pattern Drafting Info, General Info, Pattern Cutting Techniques

Pattern Help- Lengthening A Circular Skirt – Full Circle

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In a previous post I covered ‘Making The Most of Your Full Circle Skirt‘ and you may want to take a peep at that before or after reading this post.

I have been asked for some ‘pattern help’ and my reader wants to know how to lengthen a full circle skirt. It’s not as easy as it may first appear.

Full circle skirts take up a lot of fabric, so you may well be limited to the extra you can add to the hem, by the length and width of the fabric you have. It may be simpler to use a tailoring technique and mark on the extra length on your fabric with chalk after pinning the pattern down to get the most length you can. My blocks are made as long as I can make them for a 150 cm (59″) wide fabric, but what if you need a longer skirt?

The other way to gain more length, if your fabric is not wide enough is to have more seams, but this is not ideal for full circle skirts as you are using all the different grains of the fabric, warp, weft and bias and the skirt will hang differently at each one, this is covered in detail in the previous post mentioned above.

 

My block sheet is planned as above, the shape is designed to be cut twice on a fold, once for CB (Center Back) and once for CF (Center Front). This means 2 side seams, one containing a zip opening (preferably an invisible zip).

If you measure the block the side seam length is just under 60 cm (23 5/8″) and with the seam allowance you need to add and the allowance for the waist shaping then the skirt piece fits nicely onto 150 cm (59 1/16″) wide fabric folded in half.

Lengthening the full circle skirt

If you choose to lengthen the skirt, by measuring equally down from the hem at right angles and re drawing the hem curve – as you can see below the skirt now no longer fits on the 150 cm wide fabric when placed on the fold line!

Your only choice, if your fabric is not wide enough, is to then have a seam at CB and CF – not nice at all and the skirt would not hang well, so a longer skirt needs a much wider fabric and also will take up over 3 meters in length! It can be quite expensive to make!

As long as you know all this you can make a choice and look at some other options, buy fabric wider than 150 cm or look at the design of your skirt and place a yoke at the waist line to add length or perhaps a frill at the hem.

Its always useful to take your pattern section to the fabric shop with you and give it a try on the fabric of your choice.

I hope this has helped and saved some frustration!

Happy pattern cutting,

Nicola

 

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Beginners Pattern Drafting Info, courses, Current Projects, design and pattern cutting, free blocks, Free Downloads, General Info, half scale blocks, intensive pattern cutting course, Learning guide, pattern cutting course in france, practice blocks, scaled blocks, workshops

A Free Half Scale Dress Block! – As A Thank You!!

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Thank You & some exciting Information about my upcoming course!

Thanks to all my blog subscribers that took the time to subscribed to my YouTube channel! I am now well over my target 100 subscribers – as a Thank You – I have uploaded a free half scale dress block and it’s in the subscribers bonus contents page for you! Plus some more exciting news below about my upcoming pattern cutting course in France.

Just a little note about scaled blocks – first

When you are practising your pattern cutting, or even developing a style, it’s sometimes useful to do your initial experimentation with half or quarter scale blocks!

This can save paper, however I do recommend using full scale blocks as much as you can – why you may ask?

Working in full scale helps you develop an ‘eye’ for proportion and scale, its amazing, as you become more proficient in pattern drafting, you develop a second sense and can tell immediately when something doesn’t quite measure up. This is a difficult skill to master if you always work in quarter or half scale.

However scaled block do have their place and are perfect for sketch books and experimentation.

I am pleased to announce (dates to be confirmed) that I can now offer a weeks intensive pattern cutting course in France, during September. The course will be limited to 3 or 4 people and will be fully catered. Plus each course member will receive a full set of my Modeliste Creative Colour Blocks! More details and pictures of the accommodation will be available on my courses and professional development page very soon. If you are interested in the course please get in touch!

Thanks again!

Nicola

 

 

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Current Projects, design and pattern cutting, General Info, Learning guide, lingerie making tutorial

YouTube- Take a look at my videos!

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I have been on YouTube about 6 months now and it’s been hard work to get my subscriber numbers up. I need the magic 100 subscribers to get my name on the end of my URL link, rather than a long string of random numbers! As you can see I am currently on 70 subscribers.

https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCfDAZ0PO96phtnK-rcyBiQw/videos?view_as=subscriber

If any of my lovely blog follower would like to subscribe to my YouTube channel too then I would be over the moon! Just click on the link above.

I am planning a number of short technique videos very shortly and subscribers will be automatically notified!

I already have a few useful videos so please take a look!

Happy Pattern Cutting & Sewing

Nicola

 

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General Info, Sewing Techniques

Fusible Interfacing – A Guide To Getting The Best Results

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How to apply your fusible interfacing properly!

I use a lot of fusible interfacing. When I worked in the fashion industry I was lucky enough to have a fusing press, so that did all the work for me. However getting a good ‘fuse’ at home is more difficult.

My instructions here are based on trying to simulate the ‘fusing press’ process at home.

Firstly some of the heavier fusing I sell in my shop (the 1055HF) takes quite a bit of force to fuse it, a gentle ironing motion will not do the trick!

Here is the technical info supplied by the factory I use for the non woven fusible interfacing  labelled (1055HF) Stiff Heavy Fusing:

Composition: 100% polyester
Technical: chemical bonded
Coating: LDPE
Weight: Heavy clothing use
Width: 36″
Length: Any length required
Color: black, snow white
Hand feeling: hard, and crisp
Feature: fusible, adhesive, shrink-resistant, waterproof, hard to tear away.

Its also washable at 40 Degrees!

This type of fusing would be suitable for the following applications:

Non-woven fusible interfacing is suitable for inside waist bands for garments made from a medium to heavy weight fabric, clothing and jackets made for autumn and winter that are heavier in weight, embroidery backing, hats, bags etc. Its also great for a number of craft uses. Some people use it to make fabric box’s and apply 2 layers for a stiffer box.

For those new to fusible interfacing, the shiny side is the side that has the resin applied, you will soon know if you make a mistake with fusible interfacing as you then have to spend a long time picking it off your iron! Its worth taking the time to double check which is the sticky side. I speak from experience here.

Why Use Fusible Interfacing?

Interfacing is used on the “wrong” side of fabrics to make an area of a garment more rigid. Interfacing can be used to stiffen or add body and strength to your fabric.

Interfacings are essential in shirt collars and waistbands as they strengthen that area of the garment. Collars are usually fused on the under collar only.

You also need it in button stands to strengthen where the button hole and also the button is sewn, with the added advantage of having a nice clean sharp line at the center front of your shirt or blouse . It’s also common to add interfacing to the back of embroidery or any decorative stitching you do, this type of interfacing doesn’t have to be fusible though.

Its common to cut fusing pattern sections slightly smaller than the whole pattern piece as they can be quite bulky when fused to the seam allowance. It’s best to have them a few millimetres over the seam allowance so that they are caught in by the stitching, but don’t add too much bulk to the seam allowance.

Some coats and jackets can be fully fused, for example the whole pattern piece is fused as a block, this is only common with outerwear. The term for this technique is -block fusing-.

There is also a term called ‘elephants skin’ used in fusing, this is where the fusing partially fuses so you have areas that are not fused and this looks all bumpy and wrinkly on the surface of the fabric. You want to avoid elephants skin at all costs! Fusing can be removed if you make a mess, bu warming it up again and pulling it off – it’s worth a try if you’r not happy with the result. Of course you need to apply fresh fusing then.

How to get the best results – fusing at home

  • Always try a test piece first – it’s much safer than going directly to your garment or project!
  • The clothing factory will follow the instructions below – so lets take a look at how to translate them to home use

  • ■Manufacturers Fusing Condition:

    Temperature: 135-150℃
    Pressure: 1.5-3.5kg/cm2
    Time: 10-16 second

  • The temperature you need for a good fuse depends on the thickness of the fusing and your fabric, the above is a guideline.  A domestic iron commonly heats to a temperature of 180–220 °Celsius, depending on the fabric.
  • You do need to apply quite a bit of pressure when fusing – DO NOT USE AN IRONING MOTION– that will only drag the fabric and fusing.
  • This is my routine – I place the fusing to the wrong side of the fabric – sticky side down – I then use a fusing cloth ( a piece of cotton), this helps regulate the heat a little too, However I sometimes remove the cloth if I need a very strong bond and if I am using a very thick fusing.  I work from the center of the piece I am fusing, and move outwards, using the tip of the iron at first and then when I am confident that it’s all flat and in place – I press as hard as I can. Don’t be afraid to put your weight into it – to simulate the pressure you need to bond the fusing and the fabric together. I don’t use steam – there is an age old debate on this subject – some people do use steam and some don’t – I prefer not to. I let it all cool down for a few seconds and then I then press from the right side of the fabric with a cooler iron
  • As you can see from the guidelines above the fusing does take time, from 10 to 16 seconds. If you have already completed a test piece you can be sure that the conditions you are fusing under are correct. Having a test piece gives you the confidence to leave the iron in position, without worrying!

I also use a lot of  (1035HF), which is more of a medium fuse. It’s a good one for regular clothing use and ideal for blouses and skirts and trouser waistbands. The numbers are a universal code used by the clothing industry, however unless you are buying directly from the factory, you are unlikely to encounter them.

Generally fusing is referred to as either light weight, medium weight and heavy weight, with handles being soft or stiff or crisp or heavy. They are all subjective so an industry code is more accurate for clothing manufacturers.

Here is a handy chart with the full range of fusible interfacing weights and their industry codes if ever you go into mass production or become a clothing technologist!

Other Useful Products

A couple of other very useful products I have come across are worth a mention. If I am doing any delicate embroidery I use a film that dissolves in cold water. Its perfect for the delicate work I do on my lingerie samples.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

■ Product Description:

Composition: PVA (Polyvinyl Alcohol)

Thickness: 25gsm-50gsm
Width: 40″
Length: As required
Color: translucent
Texture: embossed
Feature: good water-solubility, eco-friendly, no remnant left
Application: cold pva water soluble film is used for senior underwear, fashion clothing and lace embroidery backing.

This film dissolves very quickly in a few seconds when submerged in cold water, I love to use it. Its fairy expensive but a meter lasts a long time when you are doing delicate embroidery and its a good item to have in your sewing box!

100% Cotton Heavy Weight Woven Interfacing

I also find this 100% cotton woven interfacing is ideal for heavier craft projects – or costumes.

■ Product Description:

Composition: 100% cotton
Coating: HDPE
Width: 44″
Length: As required
Weight: 150g-200g
Density: 20*21/60*60
Color: white
Hand feeling:  hard
Characteristics: excellent fusing effect, better peeling strength and washability, Ideal if you want cotton interfacing for a cotton project.
Application: cotton heavy fusible interfacing is applicable to work shirts, uniforms, hats, stiffer cuffs, waistband, placket, purse, bag and so on. In fact anywhere where you need a garment part to be extra stiff.

It takes a little more fusing than the non woven interfacing we looked at above –

■ Fusing Conditions:

Temperature: 165℃-175℃ – not a problem if you are fusing to cotton as it can take the heat!
Time: 18-22 sec – so give it some time.
Pressure: 2-4 kg/c㎡ – so lean in hard if you are fusing this at home!

This product is ideal for costumes and collars if you want them to stand up! Again its quite costly but its cotton and you really don’t need to use too much for a collar or a cuff.

I worked as a costume designer once and I used this fusing all the time, I love it!

Whatever the fusing you use its well worth taking the time to fuse it properly to the chosen area, It can make such a difference to how professional your garment or project looks.

I hope this has helped and if you have any questions or comments then please let me know.

Happy fusing!

Nicola

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Beginners Pattern Drafting Info, General Info, Pattern Cutting Techniques

Pattern Help – Recreating a Vintage Dress Pattern

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I have had a question from one of my readers regarding a dress style.

The best way to develop a dress is by using a dress block, you would think that you could just place a skirt and a bodice together and that would be it – unfortunately its not as simple as that. There are a few adjustments you need to make to join a skirt to a bodice to get a good fit, and you need a little pattern cutting knowledge for that. I plan to do a post on just the subject very soon.

But for now, lets suppose you are in a rush and you have a bodice block and a skirt block, my best advice would be to first of all follow my post on lengthening the bodice below the hip line and that will give you a basic dress block, suitable for some, but not all styles.

Lets take the example above, this is the style my reader wants and she only has a bodice block, but now she has followed the blog post and created a basic dress from the bodice.

 

 

The style lines can be followed through to the back dress and an identical quantity of fullness should be added to the back skirt – remember to cut the skirt on the bias grain with a seam at the center front.

I hope this helps and if anyone else has any pattern cutting puzzles then please let me know.

Happy pattern making

Nicola x

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Beginners Pattern Drafting Info, Free Downloads, General Info, Pattern Cutting Techniques

Garment Ease – Pattern Ease- Explained

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Ease – Explained – What is ease?

There is a lot of confusion out there about ‘ease’. I have read some rather misleading definitions on many a web page. Here I will give a detailed explanation about ease. You can also download your free PDF Ease Allowance Chart below –

Why have ease?

Ease is incorporated into a block or a pattern to allow the wearer to move, therefore ease is “allowance for movement”. Ease allows the wearer to breath, bend, sit down and move around. Ease is particularly important in children’s’ and babies wear and again becomes important in older peoples clothing.  If there is too little ease in a garment then the “look” of the garment may also be compromised, skirts will ride up, trousers will wrinkle and jackets will be restrictive. Therefore getting the right quantity of ease in your patterns and garments is important.

Ease Allowance Chart Free Download

Hopefully the above chart will give you a guideline for classifying the quantity of ease that a garment contains but lets look at the meaning of ease.

Ease is the difference between the measurement of the body (without clothes) and the measurement of the block, pattern and ultimately the garment that fits over the body.

Lets look at a real example – Using my basic bodice block in the Modeliste Creative Range available on Etsy.

The bust measurement the size 12 block is designed to fit is a 90.5 cm bust (34 1/16 inches). That is the measurement from the size chart I used to draft the block and relates the the measurement of the actual body the block is drafted to fit.

When I drafted the block I allowed 6.9 cm ( 2 3/4″)  ease over the bust as ease in this block range, as its developed for a curvy figure.

Therefore if we measure the block itself the measurement will be 94.4 cm (38 3/4″). This is the body measurement plus the ease.

If we produced a pattern from this blocks and made no changes to the block, then this quantity of ease would stay the same. However, usually during the course of making a pattern, we either reduce or increase the quantity of ease as we create the pattern. The extra we add in or take away during the pattern making process is called design ease.

We now have 2 types of ease –

  • Block Ease
  • Design Ease

There is a third type of ease, we will come onto that in a moment. The information above relates to woven fabrics or stable knits. If we are dealing with stretch fabric then this is where we come onto another type of ease.

  • Negative ease

Negative ease occurs when a block or pattern is smaller than the body it is designed to fit. Negative ease becomes important when drafting patterns with over 18 – 20 % stretch percentage. If you are drafting patterns with a stretch percentage of under that amount then you can use a woven fabric pattern.

Adjusting patterns and blocks for stretch percentage and negative ease percentages is a book in itself and I have come across many different methods in my career. That’s a topic for another day!

I hope this helps and as always, if you have any questions or comments then please let me know.

Happy Sewing,

Nicola

 

 

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