courses, Pattern Cutting Techniques

PROFESSIONAL PATTERN GRADING – DIGITAL GRADING RULERS- Increased Speed & Accuracy!

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In my digital pattern cutting course I show my students how to make digital grading rulers, it takes time, but in the long run it saves a lot of valuable time and really increases the accuracy of your grading.

Many of us pattern cutters and graders are now using systems such as Adobe illustrator and Corel Draw to draft and grade patterns, the downside is that we need to find workarounds to grade, as these systems, are not designed for pattern cutters. The good news is that there are several methods which make grading really easy and accurate in Ai. I do most of my grading in Gerber Accumark, but am just as happy grading in Ai, and have used my grading knowledge and skills to create several methods to grade quickly and accurately in Adobe illustrator. I cover this and much more in my course.

Lots of my students have asked if I would produce my digital rulers as a product for sale, so here is the first one! This is the skirt grading ruler set and it comes with both a multi size ruler and a single size up and down.

This video will explain it all!

Let me know what you think, here is the link to the skirt rules on Etsy too!

I am planning a grading course very very soon, I know it’s not for everyone, but it is my passion! Any comments and ideas would be much appreciated!

Nic x

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design and pattern cutting, Pattern Cutting Techniques, Sewing Techniques

‘Easing’ a sleeve head into an armhole – professionally!

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This very important step is sadly one that is often rushed or even missed out completely by pattern makers and sewers, there is no doubt that it takes time and skill to insert a sleeve into an armhole and deal with the ease in the sleeve head correctly.

There is preparation involved and many commercial sewing pattern guidelines do not follow the correct methods, they adopt short cuts, to be fair to them it would be difficult to explain the whole process and it would simply take too long.

Most high street clothing manufacturers remove a large quantity of the ease from the sleeve head as it makes the sewing process much easier for the machinist in the factory, at the expense of good fit. Little or no ease in the sleeve head can make the sleeve hang badly and create drag lines at the top of the arm and bicep.

In this post I am going to focus on the best way to deal with the ease in the sleeve head, if you have read my earlier posts on sleeve head ease then you will be familiar with how to increase or decrease the ease in your sleeve pattern. I am going to show you my method of sewing a sleeve into an armhole and how I ease in the extra fabric we often have at the crown.

Getting to know your sleeve and armhole

The above image shows the front and back bodice laid on top of the sleeve block. The pink arrows show that the back armhole and back sleeve up to the double notch positions match perfectly, and they should, as there is no ease in this part of the sleeve. The blue arrow shows how the point onwards from the notches on the back bodice matches the back sleeve – note how the measurement of the back bodice doesn’t quite make it to the notch at the sleeve head.

If we travel from the green arrow on the front armhole and apply the same measurement to the sleeves again we see that the front sleeve and armhole match perfectly from the underarm seam up to the single front notch. The orange arrows show the measurement, taken from the front bodice, of the remaining armhole, and applied to the sleeve, again this measurement stops short of the notch at the top of the sleeve.

The area marked in yellow is our ‘EASE’ and this ease needs to be ‘eased’ in between the back armhole notches and the front armhole notch.

How easy this step is depends very much on the fabric you are using, in my example I used a calico, with very little softness, if I had used a wool with a loose weave then I would have found compressing the fabric much easier!

I am easing in the maximum quantity of ease, just over 6 cm.

2 Rows of stitching

Make 2 rows of stitching, a narrow distance apart, they should be just inside your seam allowance.

Gather by pulling the thread ends

Use the ends of the threads to pull in the fabric and compress the ease, you are aiming for a smooth line with no pleats or tucks, you can also use steam to help compress and shrink the fabric. This may take some time, but be patient and you will manage it. I have 6.2 cm ease in this example and I have manage to ease it all in between the notches.

When you are happy with the sleeve head, it is then time to pin the sleeve into the armhole, all the notches should match perfectly.

There is a saying in sewing ‘we never want a saggy bottom’ this will help you remember that any excess you have to ease in should always be at the top!

A tailors ham is the best tool for pressing and steaming the sleeve head.

The sleeve head should roll off the armhole at the top, as all the ease you compressed is released. As I am using a stiff calico the effect is not as beautiful as it would be if I were to use a wool fabric that compressed easily.

I hope this helps you with your sleeve sewing and improves the fit and appearance of your next sleeve!

Happy sewing and pattern making,

Nicola

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Beginners Pattern Drafting Info, courses, Current Projects, Free Downloads, half scale blocks, Pattern Cutting Techniques, practice blocks

Bodice Dart Manipulation Part 2…both darts at the waist.

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Daisy in her half scale bodice block.

Here we have part 2 in the 6 part series on how to move darts around the bodice block. Please take a look and be sure to give me a thumbs up in YouTube and leave a comment or a question. If you subscribe you will be sure to catch all my upcoming videos!

The class materials and half scale blocks are in the members only area here on my blog page, once you are subscribed you will be sent the password!

Click to watch in YouTube and be sure to subscribe.

Many thanks for watching and if you have any ideas for pattern cutting videos, please let me know.

See you very soon with part 3!

Nicola

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Beginners Pattern Drafting Info, Pattern Cutting Techniques, pattern help

Waistbands – Let’s take a look.

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I regularly receive questions about my blocks and one recent question has spurred me into creating this post, as I imagine, if one person asks then others also want to know.

The question was – do I supply waistband patterns with my blocks, and the simple answer is no, I don’t. However I am happy to show you how to construct a waistband here on my blog!

There are several different types of waistband and I thought I would start out by looking at the straight waistband, of course you can also have a shaped or curved waistband, a high waisted waistband, a low waisted waistband or even a facing if you don’t want a waistband.

There are a number of ways to finish a waistline, the same theory applies to both skirts and trousers.

Let’s look at the most common type of waistband – the straight waistband.

 

A straight waistband is usually constructed slightly smaller than the skirt pattern measurement (as the main skirt has a quantity of ease included) so that it fits the body better. To complicate things slightly the waistband also needs some ease, but not as much as the skirt waist.

The maximum depth of a straight waistband, before you should consider using a different pattern cutting method to the one shown below is 5 cm. Waistbands deeper than this will need to be shaped to fit the body contours and we will look at the method for drafting a deeper waistband later.

Drafting Your Straight Waistband

It’s as simple as constructing a rectangle, however notches are essential!

You will need to decide on the finished width you require, let’s say 5 cm and multiply this by 2 and then add on 2 lots of seam allowance. You may be happy with 1.5 cm seam allowance, but 1 cm is more suitable.

Here comes the slightly more complex part –

You will also need to calculate the length you require, this will be your (BODY) waist measurement and some ease allowance so that you can sit, move and breath in the skirt, very important! The quantity of ease you choose to add to the waistband, can be less than the ease you have in the waistline of the skirt pattern or block. So let’s take a look at an example –

If skirt pattern / block waistline has 5 cm ease at the waist line, then you may decide to add 3 cm ease to the waistband, and therefore you will be easing 2 cm of the skirt waist into the waistband.

On top of this you will also need to add some extra for a button stand and 2 sets of seam allowance.

If the width of your skirt back and front is the same at the hip level, which it will be on some blocks or patterns, but not on others, then the placement of the notches is more straightforward. If the the skirts have been drafted with a displaced side seam then the placement of the notches is slightly more complicated. As the ease needs to be distributed around the skirt block, to be perfectly accurate.

Lets look at the basic rectangle first

Step one

Construct a rectangle twice the finished width you require. The length will be the waist measurement plus a couple of centimetres ease – please note that the ease you add to the waistband is up to you, if you have a comfort stretch fabric such as a stretch denim you may want to add very little ease if you want a snug fit, older wearers may like more ease and personal preference and target market have a lot to do with this.

The only thing you need to ensure is that you are aware of the ease in the actual skirt waist, and either keep this the same as the waistband (this is simpler) or have a little less ease in the waistband so that the main skirt eases to the waist band (for a much better fit). The ease will need to be focused either side of the dart locations, or if there are no darts, then ease the extra in where the darts would have been placed.

 

Add some extra for a button stand to the left side of the pattern piece as it is shown, and then proceed to add seam allowance around the whole waistband. (1 cm is perfect)

Now the important part – the notches – If you have the zip opening at the CB (Center Back) then the left and right of the rectangle are both CB – the very center of the dashed rectangle is the CF (Center Front) and each quarter of the rectangle can be marked as shown, the quarter either side of the CF is the SS (Side Seam) – that is if the skirt is the same width at the hips for the front and the back. If this is the case for you then place notches at each quarter of the dashed rectangle and you have completed the waistband.

Place notches also at the button stand and also at the horizontal fold line.

If your skirt pattern or block has a displaced SS then the notches will have to be located differently. This can be done by measurement. You will need to know the amount of ease you have to ease into the waistband. For example, lets say we have a skirt that has 2 cm to ease into the WB. This means that per 1/4 of the skirt we need to ease in 1/2 a cm.

Start by placing a notch at the CB positions and the CF positions. Now measure the skirt waist between the CF and the side seam on the pattern or block, and reduce this measurement by 0.5cm – this will be the position of the notch on the waistband itself.

Apply this measurement either side of the CF and you have an accurately placed SS notch – to check that all your measurements are correct, you can check that back section of the waistband fits to the back skirt – but also is 0.5 cm smaller each side.

Having explained all that, maybe it wasn’t as simple as I first thought!

As always, if you have any questions at all then please ask.

Nicola

 

 

 

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Beginners Pattern Drafting Info, Pattern Cutting Techniques, pattern help

Pattern Help – Making a pattern for fitted low back blouse –

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I often get asked for pattern help and every now and again I post the help on my blog, my customer has recently purchased the contour fitted dress blocks to help her make these lovely saree blouses. This block is available as a PDF download as well as a printed pattern sheet.

Here is her question and I will answer it below…..I have just bought the contour fitted dress blocks as have been asked to make saree blouses (see pics) which normally are very fitted and very low backs. I just have a query re: do I just take the waist dart out completely and if there is gaping (after the neck is cut in back) to remove this to the waist or?? also, I assume the back neck dart is simply removed as part of the design. thanks.

Lets take a look at what to do with the darts for this style first.

The first step for this style is to plan the style lines, as illustrated in purple above, don’t plan the neckline yet, as we need to close out the darts first.

Trace the side panel first and close out the dart, then trace the center front panel and close the shoulder darts and the neckline dart so that all the shaping goes into the princess line seam. Trace the final pattern pieces. Plan the neckline on the center front panel after the darts have been closed out.

The back

Trace the 2 back sections and combine so that you close out the dart, keep the center back straight as this is your grain reference.

Plan a small dart at the back neckline as shown above.

Fold out the small wedge so that you take a little of the extra ease that is in the block, this will stop the back neckline gaping. Trace the final shape.

I hope this helps!

Happy Pattern Cutting!

Nicola

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bra and panties design, design and pattern cutting, designing lingerie, General Info, Lingerie Design, Pattern Cutting Techniques, size charts

The Contour Fitted Dress Block- my favourite block!

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The contour fitted dress block is one of my oldest blocks and one of my favourite blocks. I have used it over the years so many times that it’s pretty worn. I thought I had better digitize it and save a digital copy before it wore out! I didn’t stop there, as I only had the block in a size 12, I decided to develop a range of contour fitted dress blocks as I am no longer the size 12 I was as a 21 year old student at the London College of Fashion!

Over the years I have updated and modernised the block and it’s my go to block for any fitted styles, bra patterns, corsets etc.

Instead of the normal process I follow for drafting a block and grading the draft, I decided, as the grading would have been too messy, to draft and apply all the contour fitting lines to each individual size. The sizes available come in a size 8 UK (4 USA) to a size 18 UK (14 USA). Of course all the contour fitting lines can be ignored if you wish and the block can be used as a regular fitted dress block.

The contour fitting process involves taking extra suppression (darts) out at the cleavage, the neck line, around the full circumference of the bust, and also at the side seams. If you are interested in darts I have a whole workbook on them!

As with all my blocks, I sew up the draft after I have made any changes and make a fit assessment, I am really pleased with the fit of this block.

Fitting Photographs –

The images below shows the fit of the dress block – without the extra contour fitting applied – please note this dress block can be used as a fitted dress block – simply use the darts without the extra contour fitting.

As is also my custom, I measure every single area of the blocks I draft, and having done that to the 10th of a millimetre, I also then convert the measurements into inches for my ‘inch’ customers.

Sometimes maybe I go into too much detail, an old habit from working as a garment technologist!

This dress block is drafted to the hip, I prefer this as I can then lengthen the block as I need to according to the sketch I am working from, I simply have to add a rectangle below the hip line.

As the contour fitted dress block can be quite daunting, I have produced a ‘pattern sheet’ to illustrate how the block can be used to create a fitted evening top with bra cups. I supply this as a free sheet with the contour fitted dress blocks when customers buy the whole range of sizes, With this blocks set you can just buy the size you need as a single block and sleeve.

The evening bodice sewn up as a toile gives you an idea of the type of fit and the styles that this block can produce, once the contour fitting is applied.

I hope this post has inspired those of you who have the block to go ahead and make some contour fitted styles, I would love to see what you make so please send me the photos!

I have this block as a physical pattern sheet and also as a PDF instant download available in my Etsy shop.

Happy Pattern Cutting!

Nicola

 

 

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Beginners Pattern Drafting Info, General Info, Pattern Cutting Techniques

Pattern Help- Lengthening A Circular Skirt – Full Circle

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In a previous post I covered ‘Making The Most of Your Full Circle Skirt‘ and you may want to take a peep at that before or after reading this post.

I have been asked for some ‘pattern help’ and my reader wants to know how to lengthen a full circle skirt. It’s not as easy as it may first appear.

Full circle skirts take up a lot of fabric, so you may well be limited to the extra you can add to the hem, by the length and width of the fabric you have. It may be simpler to use a tailoring technique and mark on the extra length on your fabric with chalk after pinning the pattern down to get the most length you can. My blocks are made as long as I can make them for a 150 cm (59″) wide fabric, but what if you need a longer skirt?

The other way to gain more length, if your fabric is not wide enough is to have more seams, but this is not ideal for full circle skirts as you are using all the different grains of the fabric, warp, weft and bias and the skirt will hang differently at each one, this is covered in detail in the previous post mentioned above.

 

My block sheet is planned as above, the shape is designed to be cut twice on a fold, once for CB (Center Back) and once for CF (Center Front). This means 2 side seams, one containing a zip opening (preferably an invisible zip).

If you measure the block the side seam length is just under 60 cm (23 5/8″) and with the seam allowance you need to add and the allowance for the waist shaping then the skirt piece fits nicely onto 150 cm (59 1/16″) wide fabric folded in half.

Lengthening the full circle skirt

If you choose to lengthen the skirt, by measuring equally down from the hem at right angles and re drawing the hem curve – as you can see below the skirt now no longer fits on the 150 cm wide fabric when placed on the fold line!

Your only choice, if your fabric is not wide enough, is to then have a seam at CB and CF – not nice at all and the skirt would not hang well, so a longer skirt needs a much wider fabric and also will take up over 3 meters in length! It can be quite expensive to make!

As long as you know all this you can make a choice and look at some other options, buy fabric wider than 150 cm or look at the design of your skirt and place a yoke at the waist line to add length or perhaps a frill at the hem.

Its always useful to take your pattern section to the fabric shop with you and give it a try on the fabric of your choice.

I hope this has helped and saved some frustration!

Happy pattern cutting,

Nicola

 

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Beginners Pattern Drafting Info, General Info, Pattern Cutting Techniques

Pattern Help – Recreating a Vintage Dress Pattern

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I have had a question from one of my readers regarding a dress style.

The best way to develop a dress is by using a dress block, you would think that you could just place a skirt and a bodice together and that would be it – unfortunately its not as simple as that. There are a few adjustments you need to make to join a skirt to a bodice to get a good fit, and you need a little pattern cutting knowledge for that. I plan to do a post on just the subject very soon.

But for now, lets suppose you are in a rush and you have a bodice block and a skirt block, my best advice would be to first of all follow my post on lengthening the bodice below the hip line and that will give you a basic dress block, suitable for some, but not all styles.

Lets take the example above, this is the style my reader wants and she only has a bodice block, but now she has followed the blog post and created a basic dress from the bodice.

 

 

The style lines can be followed through to the back dress and an identical quantity of fullness should be added to the back skirt – remember to cut the skirt on the bias grain with a seam at the center front.

I hope this helps and if anyone else has any pattern cutting puzzles then please let me know.

Happy pattern making

Nicola x

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design and pattern cutting, Pattern Cutting Techniques

The Japanese Bunka Bodice Block – How to work with it – Pattern Magic!

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I was given my first copy of the Pattern Magic book shortly after it was published. It was written all in Japanese, there was no English translation at the time! Luckily I had a Japanese student and she kindly translated the drafting instructions for me. I don’t think the latest English translations of the book have the drafting instructions. The books do come with copies of the blocks, however.

Being Welsh and a little more ‘curvy’ than the blocks supplied, that are designed for beautiful Japanese ladies, I began the task of drafting the Bunka blocks using the drafting instructions in the original Japanese version. but to my own size charts.

I have developed a range of styles from these blocks and I love them, they are slightly different to regular bodice blocks in that they have extra suppression at the side body. This gives you the option of using the darts to make the bodice into fitted styles or cleverly ignoring the darts so that you have a straighter side seam. If you use the darts as they are, it also has the effect of spreading the suppression more evenly around the body. Not so great if you have a large bust though.

I have never been asked any questions about how to move or use the darts on these block, surprisingly. I imagine those customers that use the blocks are developing the gorgeous styles in the bunka book and therefore would just follow their instructions. Or they can work it out for themselves. Its not difficult but I thought I would show how the darts can be moved to make the blocks appear as regular blocks and the methods I use.

Firstly for me I need the suppression, that is darts, at the bust as I need as large a bump as I can throw out at the bust. I re assign the side dart to the bust dart by simply measuring the side dart and placing half that quantity either side of the bust dart.

If you have a smaller more athletic bust and you want a flatter but fitted look, then the side dart can be closed out for more shaping and the original bust dart remains the same as illustrated here.

Or if you are using the alternative block I developed with the dart at the shoulder, you will need to connect the apex of the dart to the armhole, as illustrated below, and then cut along this line, as illustrated and fold out the dart for the more fitted style. This method is also suitable for the side back dart.

 If you want to take a look at the blocks I drafted in my Etsy shop they are here.

I also have a lovely Japanese Draped Dress that I developed from this block in my shop.

I have also developed a kimono style bodice block to save you time!

I have a large collection of Japanese pattern cutting books, so keep posted as I will certainly be looking at this topic again in my blog.

If anyone out there is using these blocks I would love to hear what you do with them!

If you are a keen pattern cutter you can’t help but be inspired by these beautiful books, so take a look at Pattern Magic!

Nicola x

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Beginners Pattern Drafting Info, Pattern Cutting Techniques

Making your own bespoke skirt pattern block pattern or sloper!

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Making your own made to measure skirt block pattern – and understanding the process!

If you are new to pattern drafting I always think a skirt is a good place to start. I have carried out a lot of research on block drafting, I have even published an academic paper on the subject! The draft I am going to show you here is a combination of all my research and a method I developed as a result of much experimentation and perfecting the skirt draft.

I also realised that most drafting books are very rigid and do not allow for any manoeuvring in the process. Many of us are not drafting blocks because we are a standard shape. Being an unusual shape may well have led us to this point. So my instructions give ranges and options!

This post is a long one, at this moment I have been working on it for 2 days and it will no doubt go into 3 days once I make a toile and take some photos. What I am trying to do as I go along, is to explain the drafting process. Most, if not all, block drafting instructions out there just give basic follow the dot instructions, with barely any reasoning behind them. I am the type of learner that can’t accept anything myself until I understand it. Hence my desire to go into much detail in my posts! By the end of this you will be an expert skirt bock drafter, I promise!

Gather together:

  • A tape measure
  • A small piece of paper and a pen for notes
  • A calculator (I use my phone)
  • A large piece of paper to draft on – even wrapping paper or wall paper will do
  • A long ruler and a set square
  • A pencil (3H)
  • A rubber – you will need one!

You will need some measurements too!

  • Waist – measured at the natural waist level, What do I mean by natural waist? Having come from an era where the waist was the waist, I found myself explaining to students where the waist actually was! This is because fashion has lowered the place where most garments sit on the body. For example most trousers are now designed to sit below the waist and those garments that do actually sit on the waist are often referred to as ‘high wasted’ when in fact the sit directly on the natural waist.
  • If you are a plus size then the waist measurement may be more difficult to take so take a piece of string and let it settle at the waist level where it wants to. Another way to identify where the natural waist is, is to bend over to the side and see where you crease. The natural waist is usually above the belly button.
  • Hip measurement. The hip is the fullest area over the hips and bottom. You may sometimes be asked for a high hip or top hip measurement and this is located above the full hip. For this draft you need the full hip measurement which is normally located between 21 to 22 cm (8 1/4 inches to 8 11/16) below the natural waist (depending on your size) the smaller the size normally the higher the hip. Again if you are a plus size then the hip may be lower and if your measurement around the thighs is the largest measurement then use this. The skirt must pull over your largest part, so make sure you take a moment to make sure you have this measurement correct. Again make sure the tape is level.
  • Take a note of your hip depth, as instructed above.

  • Skirt length. This is entirely up to you. For a basic block I recommend drafting to the knee. You can always lengthen or shorten the skirt later.

 

Now there are a couple of things we need to consider before selecting which draft to use. If you have a hip that is more than 12 cm (4 3/4″) larger than your waist, you will need to draft a skirt with 2 back skirt darts, as one back skirt dart will not fit you well at all. However we will solve that problem once we have drafted the basic block and I will show you how to add an extra back waist dart as part of the process below.

Jot down your measurements here

It’s always advisable to make a note of your measurements and calculations when you are drafting a block or pattern. I have filled in the chart below with the measurements I am planning to use for this example. You will find a blank Skirt drafting measurements log here. I work in centimeters but I am aware many people work in inches so I have supplied conversions throughout the post.

The drafting process

We will begin by drawing a rectangle – the length of the rectangle will be your selected skirt length and the width will be half of your hip plus ‘some’ ease.

How much ease should I add?

firstly, remember we are working on half a pattern here, this is normal for pattern cutting and drafting when the block or pattern is symmetrical. Ease is extra allowance for movement and is the extra you add to a block or pattern above the actual body measurement. Ease will allow you to breath, sit, bend and function in the garment. Older people and plus size ladies usually like more ease. Young people and those that have a preference for a snug fit would add less ease. ( Babies and children also need more ease).

Another consideration to the quantity of ease you add at the hip is that those of you with wider hips and smaller waists will have more to take out at the waist (suppress) in the form of darts (suppression) as there will be a larger difference between hips and waist. What I recommend is that if you have a small waist and large hips, you may want to go for a smaller quantity of ease at the hips. Hope that all makes sense.

But – it  all depends on your personal preference, I would recommend anywhere between 1 to 2 cm (3/8 inch to 13/16″) to be added to the half hip measurement (half of the total ease of  2 cm (13/16″) to 4 cm (1 9/16″) ease). Lets go with 1.5 cm ease for this example (that would be 3 cm (1 3/16″) total ease). But its really up to you. Don’t forget this is a basic block and you will use it to develop your patterns from, so adaptations can be made later to the styles you want.

Next lets mark in the hip line

This can be anywhere between 20 cm to 22 cm (7 7/8 inches to 8 11/16) or even lower for larger sizes. Here is a link to my size chart up to a size 30 UK ( 26 USA), if you want to check your measurements against this and see how hip depth relates to size with a free PDF guide.

Detailed size chart –Waist to Hip Depths uk and usa sizes

I have decided to use 21cm (8 1/4″) as my hip depth for this example.

Now find the center of the hip line. In my example the hip line is 53 cm (20 7/8″) across so I will measure 26.5 cm (10 7/16″) across. This is where the side seam is located. Remember all lines must be square so use a set square to check.

Now raise the side seam at the waist level by 1 cm (3/8″) and square out each side by about 4 cm (1 9/16″).

Now we are ready to adjust the waist line to fit by adding in the darts.

calculate half your waist and let’s decide how much ease we want at the waist line. The minimum we can add realistically is half the amount be added to the hip measurement, and the maximum is 4 cm (1 9/16) for you to be able to ease that amount into a waistband. I have decided to add 3 cm (1 3/16″) total ease to my waist, this means I need to add half of that to half my waist. It’s important to always remember we are working on half a pattern, so the measurements are halved.

My waist is 77 cm (30 5/16″) divided by 2 that is 38.5 cm (15 3/16″).

I am choosing to add 3 cm (1 3/16″) total ease to the waist – divided by 2 that is 1.5 cm (9/16″)

38.5 cm (15 3/16″) + 1.5 cm (9/16″)  = 40 cm ( 15 3/4″)

This measurement needs to be subtracted from the measurement of line B-C

This will give the amount you need to take out (suppress) at the waist, in the form of darts (suppression).

For my example, measurement of line B-C (which is half my hip and half my ease at hip) is 53 cm (20 7/8″). From this I need to subtract 40 cm (15 3/4″) – this leaves me with 13 cm (5 1/8″) to remove at the waist line.

My hip is more than 12 cm (4 3/4″) larger than my waist so I will get a much better fit with 2 darts in the back skirt. I want to avoid having a huge back dart and having all the suppression in one place.

The process is the same for adding one or two darts up to a point, so let’s carry on.

I am actually using my dress stand as ‘my’ measurements. I wish they were my measurements!

She is a size 10 USA and a size 14 UK, and was used  to make a dress for Beyonce once, I bought her privately from a tailor on Saville Row ,not knowing this, but its a nice thought. She is very curvy and suits my size charts.

Lets go on. My difference is 12cm (4 3/4″). You can take at least half from the side seam, plus an extra cm if you need to. Another 1.5 cm (9/16″) to 2.5 cm (1″) can be removed in the front dart and the surplus that is left is removed at the back.

Its not ideal to remove more than 3 to 4 cm ( 1 3/16″ to 1 9/16″) in a back dart. It can be stretched to 5 cm (2″) at the maximum but really this is too much.

In this case I will remove 6 cm (2 3/8″) at the side seam, this leaves 6 cm (2 3/8″) .

I will take 2 cm ( 13/16″) at the front and this leaves 4 cm (1 9/16″)

I will take 2 darts at the back to balance the suppression.

 

Step one

Remove the quantity you have calculated from the side seam, do this equally at each side.

In this case 3 cm (1 3/16″) each side – measure along the lines you extended out from the point where you raised the waist.

Draw a straight line from points 1 and 2 to the side seam at hip level and then softly curve the lines outwards to shape them, not too much as the hip will be too curved, up to 1 cm (3/8″) at the center of the line is about right, however this does depend on how curvy the hip of the wearer is. I chose to curve out 0.75 (5/16″) in my draft.

Planning the front and back darts

Draw in a guide line from point 1 to A and again from point 2 to +

Divide line 1 to A into thirds and drop a line parallel at a third along from the side seam down to the hip line. This is where the front dart will be placed.

Place half of the quantity you have calculated to be taken by the front dart either side of this line and connect to a point 9 cm (3 9/16″) down the line. In my example I am taking 2 cm (13/16″) in total so I will place 1 cm (3/8″) each side of the dart center line.

Now for some fine tuning. The dart legs must both be the same length. To ensure this we will make sure that both dart legs rise above the original horizontal waist line guide by 0.5 cm (3/16″). Use a rubber to erase the surplus on the right side.

Gently shape the rest of the waist making sure the center front is at a right angle for a short distance so it lies flat without a bump or a dip!

Now on to the back – if you have 4 cm (1 9/16″) or less then you can get away with one dart at the back. You can push it and get away with a 5 cm (2″) dart at the back if you are passionate about only having one dart. We will cover putting 2 darts in the back next.

Divide line 2 – + into half. Drop a perpendicular line parallel to the CB – from this point to the hip level. The dart will be planned each side of this line, with half the amount placed equally either side of the line. The dart can be a maximum of 15 cm (5 15/16″) long, I am choosing to have my dart 13 cm (5 1/8″) long. This dart as with the front needs perfecting and the dart legs should lie approximately 0.25 cm (1/8″) above the waist guide line. Measure and perfect the darts and the waist shaping as with the front.

I have 4 cm (1 9/16″) left so I will be placing 2 cm (13/16″) each side of the dart center line.

 

The block now needs to be cut out in paper and the darts folded in to achieve the correct shape. If you want to learn a technique for planning the shape of the darts without having to cut the block out in paper then see my technique on mirroring darts in my last post.

You also need to make sure that the waistline run is smooth once the darts are folded in. We will take a look at that shortly. Lets move on to planning for 2 darts at the back for us shapely ones!

2 darts in the back

At this point we have 4 cm (1 9/16″) or above that we want to pop into 2 darts at the back. This time instead of placing the first dart directly in the center of the waist guide line as we did for the example with the one dart back, we will move 3.5 cm (1 3/8″) along from this center line towards the center back. This dart can be up to 15 cm (5 15/16″) long. I prefer to use a length of 13 cm (5 1/8″)

The second dart will be placed half way between the remaining portion. The dart closest to the side seam needs to be shorter than the first dart by 2 cm (13/16″).

Place between 3 cm (1 3/16″) to 4 cm (1 9/16″) in the dart closest to the center back and the remaining quantity in the dart next to the side seam. Hopefully there shouldn’t be any more than 3 cm (1 3/16″) left to distribute, but if there is let me know as I have never come across this and would like to take a closer look.

 

 

Again the darts need perfecting and the dart legs need to be the same length. Make the dart legs 0.25 cm (1/8″) above the original waist level guide for the dart closest to CB and make the dart legs 0.5 (3/16″) cm above this line for the dart next to the side seam. Curve the waist gently.

 

At this point I need to stop myself, as I could go on forever about how to fit and adapt this bock, but I will save that for another post. I would love to hear from anyone that has followed my draft an any feedback is much appreciated! I will be making this draft soon and will post the pictures and some more tips for making the shape even better.

I will be adding to this theme with posts on how to make your skirt into a range of styles so keep posted and make sure you are subscribed!

If you have read all this and would love a bespoke skirt draft then please let me know as we offer a service to create a basic block to your measurements, but why not give it a go yourself!

Happy pattern drafting.

Nicola

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