The Japanese Bunka Bodice Block – How to work with it – Pattern Magic!

I was given my first copy of the Pattern Magic book shortly after it was published. It was written all in Japanese, there was no English translation at the time! Luckily I had a Japanese student and she kindly translated the drafting instructions for me. I don’t think the latest English translations of the book have the drafting instructions. The books do come with copies of the blocks, however.

Being Welsh and a little more ‘curvy’ than the blocks supplied, that are designed for beautiful Japanese ladies, I began the task of drafting the Bunka blocks using the drafting instructions in the original Japanese version. but to my own size charts.

I have developed a range of styles from these blocks and I love them, they are slightly different to regular bodice blocks in that they have extra suppression at the side body. This gives you the option of using the darts to make the bodice into fitted styles or cleverly ignoring the darts so that you have a straighter side seam. If you use the darts as they are, it also has the effect of spreading the suppression more evenly around the body. Not so great if you have a large bust though.

I have never been asked any questions about how to move or use the darts on these block, surprisingly. I imagine those customers that use the blocks are developing the gorgeous styles in the bunka book and therefore would just follow their instructions. Or they can work it out for themselves. Its not difficult but I thought I would show how the darts can be moved to make the blocks appear as regular blocks and the methods I use.

Firstly for me I need the suppression, that is darts, at the bust as I need as large a bump as I can throw out at the bust. I re assign the side dart to the bust dart by simply measuring the side dart and placing half that quantity either side of the bust dart.

If you have a smaller more athletic bust and you want a flatter but fitted look, then the side dart can be closed out for more shaping and the original bust dart remains the same as illustrated here.

Or if you are using the alternative block I developed with the dart at the shoulder, you will need to connect the apex of the dart to the armhole, as illustrated below, and then cut along this line, as illustrated and fold out the dart for the more fitted style. This method is also suitable for the side back dart.

 If you want to take a look at the blocks I drafted in my Etsy shop they are here.

I also have a lovely Japanese Draped Dress that I developed from this block in my shop.

I have also developed a kimono style bodice block to save you time!

I have a large collection of Japanese pattern cutting books, so keep posted as I will certainly be looking at this topic again in my blog.

If anyone out there is using these blocks I would love to hear what you do with them!

If you are a keen pattern cutter you can’t help but be inspired by these beautiful books, so take a look at Pattern Magic!

Nicola x