Making the ‘Hippy Style Smock’
The Smock Top project is one of my favourite patterns, I make it all the time for myself. It’s also one of my mums favourites, she adapts it to make long dresses, shapes the hem, she has even made it as a loose jacket by cutting the front top as an open shape and adding an extra facing. The pattern sleeves are long, but I will show you how they can be easily shortened. Its also lovely as a dress, I will show you how to lengthen the top too!
Here is a run through of the sewing process and also some ideas for adapting the pattern. The pattern can be purchased on Etsy and has a very detailed sew along and also some pattern adaptation ideas.
Click this link to find the pattern on Etsy
The pattern is designed so that the back smock piece is cut as 2 separate pieces with a seam down the center back, this saves fabric, however if you have wide enough fabric and want to take the extra time, then it worth cutting the back smock and the back facing on a fold line. If you choose to cut them on a fold line, then don’t forget to remove the 1 cm (3/8″) seam allowance from the center back of the pattern, or just overlap the 1 cm over the fold when you cut out.
The first step is to sew the center back seams (If you didn’t choose to cut them on a fold), both on the main smock, and the back smock facing.
You will also need to apply a light to medium weight fusible interfacing to the facing pieces (back and front), this will give them body and help them lie flatter inside the top.
When applying fusing to a fabric piece, remember its not like ironing, its more like pressing.
With sticky side down (that’s the shiny side) placed to the wrong side of the fabric, PRESS the iron and put a bit of your weight behind it, this will help the fusing process. Fusings are developed for a high heat setting and the resin needs to melt and stick. Don’t burn the fabric though, its always wise to do a test piece. Don’t use an ironing motion and don’t use steam and all will be well!
Now you have whole back pieces, and whole front pieces, so its time to join them all together.
Sew the shoulder seams and the side seams on the main top and do the same for the facing. Press the seams and neaten the edges using your normal method (zig zag or overlocker / serger)
The facing can now be applied to the neck line, Before you do this you need to neaten the edge of the facing at its hem edge. I love to apply bias binding to my facings, if you would like to have a go, see my blog post –
Making and applying your own bias binding!
Applying the facing to the neckline is the trickiest part of this process, its worth taking a little time to prepare the pattern pieces and it will help greatly if you mark the seam allowance with a fabric pen at the neckline.
It’s difficult to see where the point of the V is, so marking the seam allowance lets you stop at the V point, with your needle down in the fabric, and allows you to pivot the work, so that you can continue sewing.
Once you have sewn the facing to the main top at the neckline edge, the facing can be turned through. Before you do this you will need to clip in to the seam allowance and also the V to allow the seam allowance to open up. Cut to just within a couple of millimetres of the stitching. This will allow the facing to be pressed flat when turned through.
Now give the neckline a good press and move onto the sleeves.
I plan to make a detailed blog post on setting in a sleeve, there are a number of tips I want to share, so please keep a look out for this, its hard to picture clearly when photographing a garment!
Sew the sleeve underarm seam, I have shortened the sleeves for this top, as I want it as a summer top. I will show you how to do this later in the post, it’s not as simple as just drawing a straight line across if you want the sleeve to look straight on the body.
Here is a photo of one I made with long sleeves, just to give you an idea of the sleeve shape and how nicely it hangs.
OK, let’s sew the sleeves into the armholes. I start by pinning the underarm seams together (right sides together). I then travel around the armhole pinning and matching the notches. There is a little bit of ease in the sleeve head on this pattern. This means the sleeve head is larger than the armhole and needs to be eased in. This can be done by compressing the sleeve fabric as you sew. As this is such a loose fitting style then you can also make the extra into a few little pleats at the shoulder seam and this looks quite nice.
Now press and neaten the raw seam allowance edges together.
All that remains is to finish the hems, a machine stitched hem is fine for this style. Press the hems up by 1 cm and stitch into position. If you don’t have a way to neaten the raw edges, then the hems can be stitched as a double hem, but make sure you only take a small hem if you are doing this.
I love a pattern that I can use again and again, I love to make this style slightly longer as a loose summer dress. It’s also great as a cover up on the beach!
Above you can see the top has been made as a dress in a lovely soft cotton!
Some ideas for adapting the pattern!
A shorter sleeve.
Measure down from each underarm the quantity you require, for example 5 cm (2″).
Draw a line straight across and mark a point on the center of the line.
Drop this point by 1.5 cm (1/2″) and draw in a curved line as shown.
A straight line would look as though it went upwards when the sleeve is on the body.
Trace off the new sleeve, transferring the notches from the original pattern.
Making a longer smock or a dress.
Extend a line from the center back and the center front by the amount you wish to lengthen the top.
Measure down at right angles from various points along the hem line by the same amount.
Make the corners all 90 degrees for a couple of centimetres (3/4 inch).
Draw in the new, slightly curved hem line.
If you have any questions or comments, as always, please let me know.
Happy sewing and pattern cutting!
Nicola x
