SEAM ALLOWANCE
Seam allowance must only be added to a pattern at the very final stage, once the pattern is complete and has been checked thoroughly and measured to make sure all seams match back and front and all parts match. If you add seam allowance before you are completely finished it will confuse things!
Other factors which effect the decision regarding the amount of seam allowance to be added to a pattern section are –
- The type of fabric the garment is to be made in,
- How much the fabric will fray and the general stability of the fabric,
- The type of seam the designer intends the seam line to have, for example a French seam as apposed to a plain seam.
As a general rule confined or very curved areas, for example necklines and armholes and some very intricate style lines will need less seam allowance added than very long or fairly straight seams such as skirt hems, side seams, shoulder seams center back seams, inside and outside leg seams etc.
If an area is to be bagged out then less seam allowance is needed to reduce any bulk inside the bagged out section.
Facings may be classed as a bagged out area and should always be considered when deciding how to neaten an edge.
* Industry practice is to keep seam allowance to a minimum and rarely does a seam allowance go over 1 cm, however those making garments at home or for a couture market may allow additional seam allowance to enable more flexibility to alter the garments fit. An example of this can be sometimes viewed at the back waist of a trouser where a generous wedge of seam allowance is left to allow the garment to be altered in the future.
Happy Pattern Making!
Nicola x
