A Guide to Shoulder Pads!
Shoulder pads are a necessary part of jacket construction, but I often wonder how many sewers know the correct procedure for sewing in a shoulder pad – In this post I cover the basics and introduce you to ‘sleeve head roll’ – If you would like to join me on an advanced pattern cutting course (online) you will also learn how to adapt a pattern to allow for a shoulder pad – read on to learn more!
First A Note About Sleeve Head Roll
Before we look at shoulder pads in detail let’s take a look at sleeve head roll. Sleeve head roll is placed at the sleeve head to allow the fabric to ‘roll’ off the armhole at the shoulder and create a tailored, supported and smooth look. It forms a kind of platform and supports the sleeve head and avoids wrinkles.
Sleeve head roll should be hand sewn in before the shoulder pad is attached.
It is possible to make your own sleeve head roll or you can purchase ready made sleeve head roll as illustrated below.
Why Not Make Your Own Sleeve Head Roll With Wadding.
See my pattern shape download for shoulder pads and sleeve head roll suggested shapes – available as a free download on my advanced pattern cutting course.
Or read on to learn how to make your own pattern shape from your sleeve pattern piece.
To create your own pattern shape simply plan as shown on the finished sleeve pattern -note that the pattern should have seam allowance already included.
Sewing Shoulder Pads into a Jacket – General Guidelines
Tips
- If you are using sleeve head roll, it should already be sewn in.
- Pin the shoulder pads into the jacket first to check they are where you would like them to be. Your shoulder shape and personal preference will ultimately dictate the position – here are some guidelines
- Shoulder pads should cover most of the shoulder – they can be set back from the neckline by up to 2.5 cm (1″).The pad should extend over the shoulder seam allowance by between 1 cm to 1.5 cm (3/8″ – 9/16″)
- The shoulder pad should be positioned so that the back has an extra 1 – 1.5 cm (3/8″ – 9/16″) in length – measured from the shoulder seam.
- Pin at the shoulder seam allowance first, leave loose everywhere else.
- Place on the dress stand or body and pin the shoulder pad into position through the right side of the jacket fabric to make sure there are no wrinkles or pulls.
- Push the sleeve and armhole seam allowance outwards to create a platform for extra structure.
- At the armhole stitch through the shoulder pad and the jacket seam allowance and the sleeve head roll to secure first.
- Secure at the neckline area in 3 places as shown.
- Stitch mid way along the curved shoulder pad edge at front and back. Leave the shoulder pad as loose as you can in all other areas.
- Use a couple of tailor tacks or hand stitches where the red marks are placed.
- Note that the jacket should now be dry cleaned.
- The jacket lining an now be attached
Types Of Shoulder Pads
There are 2 main types of shoulder pad
The Triangular Pad – this is the most common type of pad and is used to create structure and add sharpness to a jacket style. This type of pad is commonly used in tailored jacket styles.
The Rounded Pad – this type of pad is designed to create a rounder softer look and is commonly used in grown on sleeve styles such as kimono sleeves.
Shoulder pads come in a wide range of sizes and thickness and must be selected according to personal preference and the desired silhouette required. Below we will take a look at my go to shoulder pads and supplier links to the pads featured.
Constructed Shoulder Pads
Constructed Shoulder Pads are an essential tailoring supply if you are making jackets or coats.
This wadded shoulder pad is hand stitched together from layers of wadding and can be trimmed to size.
Available in white and grey
Constructed Shoulders Pad –Average Dimensions:
Length (longest side): 23 cm
Width at shoulder line: 12.5 cm
Thickness (at thickest section): 2.5 cm
Click the link here to find a supplier for this type of pad….Tailored Soft Felt Layered Pad
Nude Foam Shoulder Pads
Foam Shoulder Pads are ideal for jacket and tailored blouse styles.
Suitable for use in jackets and coats when you only need a little lift and shape, and can be trimmed to size.
The foam provides a stiffer, more structured finish. These pads are designed so they can be covered with fabric
Additional Information:
Colour: Natural Foam – please note that the foam can discolour when exposed to the air – but you can cover them easily in a suitable fabric.
Size: 13mm lift – height
Dimensions (all sizes are approx. and will vary slightly due to the curve of the pad):
Length (when arched): 11cm
Length (when flat): 14cm
Width at shoulder line: 9cm
Thickness(at thickest section): 13mm (1.3cm)
This type of pad can be purchased here – Nude Foam Shoulder Pads Link
Foam Covered Jacket Pads
These Foam Covered Shoulder Pads are an essential tailoring supply if you are making jackets and coats.
Soft and finished nicely with nylon, and overlocked edges – they are extremely comfortable and keep their shape well!
Detailed Product Information:
Constructed Shoulders Pad – Dimensions:
Length (when arched): 15 cm
Length (when flat): 20 cm
Width (shoulder line) : 11.5 cm
Thickness (at thickest section): 2.5 cm (1 inch) – Note that the foam will compress slightly with the weight of the fabric in the garment.
This type of jacket pad can be purchased here – Foam Covered Jacket Pads Link
Why Not Join Me For a Course!
I have recently launched my coursed online, via teachable, you can find out all about my courses here on my blog page or simply email me at onitnotinit@mail.com for more information.
PDF pattern templates are available as well as many other useful templates and downloads as part of my Advanced Pattern Cutting Course!
Happy Pattern Cutting & Sewing!
Nicola
