How to apply your fusible interfacing properly!

I use a lot of fusible interfacing. When I worked in the fashion industry I was lucky enough to have a fusing press, so that did all the work for me. However getting a good ‘fuse’ at home is more difficult.

My instructions here are based on trying to simulate the ‘fusing press’ process at home.

Firstly some of the heavier fusing I sell in my shop (the 1055HF) takes quite a bit of force to fuse it, a gentle ironing motion will not do the trick!

Here is the technical info supplied by the factory I use for the non woven fusible interfacing  labelled (1055HF) Stiff Heavy Fusing:

Composition: 100% polyester
Technical: chemical bonded
Coating: LDPE
Weight: Heavy clothing use
Width: 36″
Length: Any length required
Color: black, snow white
Hand feeling: hard, and crisp
Feature: fusible, adhesive, shrink-resistant, waterproof, hard to tear away.

Its also washable at 40 Degrees!

This type of fusing would be suitable for the following applications:

Non-woven fusible interfacing is suitable for inside waist bands for garments made from a medium to heavy weight fabric, clothing and jackets made for autumn and winter that are heavier in weight, embroidery backing, hats, bags etc. Its also great for a number of craft uses. Some people use it to make fabric box’s and apply 2 layers for a stiffer box.

For those new to fusible interfacing, the shiny side is the side that has the resin applied, you will soon know if you make a mistake with fusible interfacing as you then have to spend a long time picking it off your iron! Its worth taking the time to double check which is the sticky side. I speak from experience here.

Why Use Fusible Interfacing?

Interfacing is used on the “wrong” side of fabrics to make an area of a garment more rigid. Interfacing can be used to stiffen or add body and strength to your fabric.

Interfacings are essential in shirt collars and waistbands as they strengthen that area of the garment. Collars are usually fused on the under collar only.

You also need it in button stands to strengthen where the button hole and also the button is sewn, with the added advantage of having a nice clean sharp line at the center front of your shirt or blouse . It’s also common to add interfacing to the back of embroidery or any decorative stitching you do, this type of interfacing doesn’t have to be fusible though.

Its common to cut fusing pattern sections slightly smaller than the whole pattern piece as they can be quite bulky when fused to the seam allowance. It’s best to have them a few millimetres over the seam allowance so that they are caught in by the stitching, but don’t add too much bulk to the seam allowance.

Some coats and jackets can be fully fused, for example the whole pattern piece is fused as a block, this is only common with outerwear. The term for this technique is -block fusing-.

There is also a term called ‘elephants skin’ used in fusing, this is where the fusing partially fuses so you have areas that are not fused and this looks all bumpy and wrinkly on the surface of the fabric. You want to avoid elephants skin at all costs! Fusing can be removed if you make a mess, bu warming it up again and pulling it off – it’s worth a try if you’r not happy with the result. Of course you need to apply fresh fusing then.

How to get the best results – fusing at home

• Always try a test piece first – it’s much safer than going directly to your garment or project!
• The clothing factory will follow the instructions below – so lets take a look at how to translate them to home use

• ■Manufacturers Fusing Condition:

  Temperature: 135-150℃
  Pressure: 1.5-3.5kg/cm2
  Time: 10-16 second

• The temperature you need for a good fuse depends on the thickness of the fusing and your fabric, the above is a guideline.  A domestic iron commonly heats to a temperature of 180–220 °Celsius, depending on the fabric.
• You do need to apply quite a bit of pressure when fusing – DO NOT USE AN IRONING MOTION– that will only drag the fabric and fusing.
• This is my routine – I place the fusing to the wrong side of the fabric – sticky side down – I then use a fusing cloth ( a piece of cotton), this helps regulate the heat a little too, However I sometimes remove the cloth if I need a very strong bond and if I am using a very thick fusing.  I work from the center of the piece I am fusing, and move outwards, using the tip of the iron at first and then when I am confident that it’s all flat and in place – I press as hard as I can. Don’t be afraid to put your weight into it – to simulate the pressure you need to bond the fusing and the fabric together. I don’t use steam – there is an age old debate on this subject – some people do use steam and some don’t – I prefer not to. I let it all cool down for a few seconds and then I then press from the right side of the fabric with a cooler iron
• As you can see from the guidelines above the fusing does take time, from 10 to 16 seconds. If you have already completed a test piece you can be sure that the conditions you are fusing under are correct. Having a test piece gives you the confidence to leave the iron in position, without worrying!

I also use a lot of  (1035HF), which is more of a medium fuse. It’s a good one for regular clothing use and ideal for blouses and skirts and trouser waistbands. The numbers are a universal code used by the clothing industry, however unless you are buying directly from the factory, you are unlikely to encounter them.

Generally fusing is referred to as either light weight, medium weight and heavy weight, with handles being soft or stiff or crisp or heavy. They are all subjective so an industry code is more accurate for clothing manufacturers.

Here is a handy chart with the full range of fusible interfacing weights and their industry codes if ever you go into mass production or become a clothing technologist!

Other Useful Products

A couple of other very useful products I have come across are worth a mention. If I am doing any delicate embroidery I use a film that dissolves in cold water. Its perfect for the delicate work I do on my lingerie samples.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

■ Product Description:

Composition: PVA (Polyvinyl Alcohol)

Thickness: 25gsm-50gsm
Width: 40″
Length: As required
Color: translucent
Texture: embossed
Feature: good water-solubility, eco-friendly, no remnant left
Application: cold pva water soluble film is used for senior underwear, fashion clothing and lace embroidery backing.

This film dissolves very quickly in a few seconds when submerged in cold water, I love to use it. Its fairy expensive but a meter lasts a long time when you are doing delicate embroidery and its a good item to have in your sewing box!

100% Cotton Heavy Weight Woven Interfacing

I also find this 100% cotton woven interfacing is ideal for heavier craft projects – or costumes.

■ Product Description:

Composition: 100% cotton
Coating: HDPE
Width: 44″
Length: As required
Weight: 150g-200g
Density: 20*21/60*60
Color: white
Hand feeling:  hard
Characteristics: excellent fusing effect, better peeling strength and washability, Ideal if you want cotton interfacing for a cotton project.
Application: cotton heavy fusible interfacing is applicable to work shirts, uniforms, hats, stiffer cuffs, waistband, placket, purse, bag and so on. In fact anywhere where you need a garment part to be extra stiff.

It takes a little more fusing than the non woven interfacing we looked at above –

■ Fusing Conditions:

Temperature: 165℃-175℃ – not a problem if you are fusing to cotton as it can take the heat!
Time: 18-22 sec – so give it some time.
Pressure: 2-4 kg/c㎡ – so lean in hard if you are fusing this at home!

This product is ideal for costumes and collars if you want them to stand up! Again its quite costly but its cotton and you really don’t need to use too much for a collar or a cuff.

I worked as a costume designer once and I used this fusing all the time, I love it!

Whatever the fusing you use its well worth taking the time to fuse it properly to the chosen area, It can make such a difference to how professional your garment or project looks.

I hope this has helped and if you have any questions or comments then please let me know.

Happy fusing!

Nicola