sewing course – Modeliste Creative

I am frequently asked to explain to both experienced and novice dressmakers how to read and understand all the information printed on a sewing pattern envelope.

If you want to make your own clothing, then the ability to understand and locate the information you need is essential.

In part 1 of this two-part series we will look at the information printed on the outside of a pattern envelope.

In part 2 we will take a more detailed look at all the information you should expect to see on the back and inside, plus look at how to understand all the symbols on a pattern piece.

Hopefully you will then have the confidence to go out and purchase a pattern and begin to make your own clothes!

Such a lot of Information in a small space!

The pattern envelope itself, in such a small amount of space, gives you a huge amount of information. Importantly a picture or illustration of the garment and the quantity of fabric you will need to purchase and a guide to notions – every hobby has its own language so lets take a closer look!

The front of the pattern envelope will show you what size range and figure type the pattern is aimed at. Be careful if you are buying a vintage pattern or a pattern from another country as the sizing will not be accurate. Some patterns come in a wide range of sizes, some in two or three and some in just one, so look carefully. A vintage pattern size will come up very small in comparison to today’s sizes, so select a pattern that takes this into account. If you are buying an American pattern online then don’t forget that American sizing is different to UK sizing, each American size is 2 sizes down from a UK size, so for example a size 14 UK is a size 10 USA.

Take note – different countries have different sizing!

A very important point to note – is the pattern designed for a woven or a knit fabric? You need to know this in order to select the correct fabric. Making a knit pattern in woven fabric will not work as woven fabric has no stretch at all and your garment will end up much too small. Making a woven pattern in knit is also a mistake as knit fabric stretches and the garment will end up much too big for you. Also, a woven pattern will have design details that are just not suitable for knit fabrics.

The difficulty level of a pattern is usually illustrated and will let you know if the pattern is for a beginner or an advanced sewer.

New to dressmaking? Select an easy pattern.

The pattern company name and the style name or number will also be indicated on the envelope, very handy in today’s digital age as you can search and see how other sewers have tackled the making process and gather some great advice! There are a number of pattern review sites now, so you are quite likely to find a popular pattern from a large pattern company has lots of reviews online.

The front of the pattern envelope will also have views of the garment, in the form of illustrations or technical sketches and the different style options available. Sometimes patterns include 2 or three different style options for you to choose from.

The envelope back becomes a little more technical, and here you will find all the additional information you need in order to purchase fabric and trimmings – otherwise known as ‘notions’. You will certainly need your glasses for the back of the envelope as there is so much information crammed into a very small space!

Join me for part 2 when we will take a closer look at the pattern envelope back and some common pattern markings.

Any questions – feel free to ask.

Nicola x

Subscribe to lots more pattern cutting help and information!

In part 1 of this project we covered drafting the panel piece you need to make an 8 panelled skirt. In part 2 we look at the methods you can use to sew the skirt together and some tips on how to change the look and design of the skirt.

If you missed part one, drafting of the pattern, take a look here and draft yourself a skirt pattern that fits your individual body measurements perfectly.

A note on suitable fabric for this skirt.

Most medium weight fabrics would be suitable for this style, even a soft denim would also work well, or a light weight chiffon would also give a lovely fluid hem, this is a very versatile style and as you experiment with different fabrics you will find they all give you a slightly different look.

How much fabric will you need?

You will need to purchase twice the length of your panel if the fabric is 125 cm or less in width, or why not take the panel to the fabric shop and ask them to help you calculate. You will also need ¼ meter of medium weight fusible interfacing and a 20 cm zip, and some matching thread of course.

You will need some bias binding if you choose to bind the inside of the skirt facing or the hemline (you can calculate this by measuring the hem of the facing panels and skirt hem) or make your own binding – I have a handy template and guide to making your own bias binding here on my blog page (see below for the link).

You will also need a hook and eye fastener to finish the top of the zip.

Let’s start sewing.

Applying a facing to the skirt waist.

A facing gives a lovely clean finish and the technique can be used on any garment hem edge, it’s particularly good for finishing armholes and necklines too!

If you are using the single facing piece, i.e. the one we made a pattern for in part 1, then you will need to cut out the pattern piece 8 times in fabric and fusible interfacing. Fuse the fabric pieces to give them some strength and then sew them together as illustrated below – Press the seams open and set the facing aside for now. If you want to know more about fusible interfacing take a look at my blog post on the best way to apply fusing at home.

Cut out and fuse your individual facing pieces.

An alternative method for creating your facing involves a little extra pattern drafting, but it will save you sewing time, so it may be worth a try…

Place 4 of the top skirt individual facing sections side by side, for this method you have to trace them before you add seam allowance.

This method eliminates the seams and creates less bulk, and saves sewing time! Cut this pattern piece twice in fabric and twice in fusing.

Finishing the facing

If you want a lovely neat finish on the inside of your skirt, you can bind the hem of your facing, this looks fantastic! Your local fabric shop will have a wide selection of ready made bias binding, or you can look here for a free guide and template to making and applying your own home make binding. I absolutely love making my own!

Take a look at my free guide and template for creating bias binding!

Sewing the main skirt panels

Take all 8 skirt panels and stitch them together, placing each piece with right sides together, leave one seam open at the top by 20 cm – this is for the zip insertion. Press the seams open and neaten with your chosen method, this may be a zig zag stitch or if you have an overlocker then this is perfect. Or why not go mad and bind all the seams.

Sew all 8 together – leave one seam open for the zip.

Inserting the zip

Many people are afraid of inserting a zip, if you follow these simple steps, and take your time, then your zip will be perfect!

Having left the seam open where the zip is to be inserted (20 cm zip is perfect) – press your seams open, so you have a nice crease along the stitch line.

Turn the skirt so the right side is to the outside. With the right side of the zip facing downwards pin the zip to the seam allowance of the skirt, with the teeth lying next to the crease line and the edge of the zip tape to the edge of the seam allowance. Sew the zip in place, 3 mm away from the zip teeth. You will have to stop as you get towards the bottom of the zip , if you can manage to, leave your needle in the work to make the next step easier, lift the zipper foot up and zip up the zipper so that you can continue to sew down to just below the metal base of the zip closure.

Pop the zip inside the skirt and press the zip from the right side gently flattening the crease you pressed in before.

Now pin the zip into position again as shown and top stitch the zip from the right side.

Finishing the waist line

Now you can finish the waist line by placing the facing piece to the skirt waist line with right sides together, fold the facing back at the zip seam or overlap by 1 cm each side and sew along the waist line.

Now flip the facing inside the skirt and press, you have a lovely waist finish! You can either hand sew, or machine stitch the ends of the facing overlaps by folding them in and securing them to the edge of the zip tape, just be careful not to catch the zip teeth.

Now all you need to do is hem the skirt, A very small hem is best for this style, press the hem up gently and pin in position, you will need to ease the hem as you sew it, try not to drag the hem along and cause ripples, I always prefer a hand sewn hem.

Now you have made one skirt, why not experiment with length and flair and create as many different versions as you like! If you would like to make this in a soft jersey fabric then take a look at my next post where I show you how.

If you have any questions or comments then just leave me a message, I would love to see some pictures of your makes!

Don’t forget to read my next post for some more ideas for developing this skirt into a jersey version.

Nicola x

Understanding a Dress Making Pattern – Part 1 – The Pattern Envelope