Developing a basic block from your own body measurements.
Part 2 of my 3 part series devoted to making your own lingerie is about to be released at the sewing directory towards the end of this month. If you missed part 1 then you can find it by following the link below
Part 1 covered drafting your panties basic block – to your own body measurements. In Part 2 I will cover how to sew your toile and test the fit.
If you didn’t get a chance to draft the panties block – don’t worry – I have drafted the block in a range of sizes for you – size 8 UK (4 USA) to size 22 UK ( 18 USA). Simply download and print on A3 paper (see my guide to printing as a poster if you only have an A4 printer)
So feel free to pick up at part 2 and join me again for part 3 where we will look at how to develop this basic knicker shape into a range of different styles.
See you over at The Sewing Directory – for many more articles.
They have been a long long time in the making, but they are finally ready to launch!
It’s taken a lot longer than I expected to create my new range of baby blocks in my Modeliste Creative range (This is my colour range with high street sizing). The sizing and drafting took a very long time to develop. However the fit trials took forever!
Normally my process is to draft my first block, try it out in the range of sizes and adapt the fit. I have a reliable and very valuable group of very experienced ladies, and men, that are always happy to help.
The wearer trials for my baby range from new born to 24 months proved very difficult to fit. I don’t have many babies in my life now, and it took a long time to find the babies I needed. Also babies grow very quickly so that was another issue. By the time that their busy mums got around to trying the garments on, the babies were no longer in the size bracket I needed! I had to start again so many times. I like to try each and every size I produce and this is even more important with baby blocks. I need to see the block on the wearer and make fit adjustments. Also babies can’t tell you if they are comfortable or not.
How fast they grow!
So far I have finalised the baby body block. This block is perfect for developing baby body patterns. It comes with a sleeve too.
Body Pattern Sheet
Adapt into a range of styles.
The baby stretch / knit bodice was another block I was keen to develop. It has been designed for use with soft jersey fabric.
This comes as 2 A0 Sheets!
I decided to place each bodice block as a separate pattern piece. The grading between each size is as little as 1 millimeter in some areas, less than the thickness of a line, so for accuracy, this was the best way. I have also provided the graded nest as I think that’s important to see. The sleeves are also separate pieces. This set comes as 2 A0 sheets all printed in colour. This increases the price, but I think it’s definitely worth it.
I have also created a baby nappy (diaper) cover block – I have had such fun creating patterns from this block. It can be used for jersey styles in its basic form. It can also be used as a base to add fullness and create some intricate nappy covers.
Use as a base for so many styles!
In the pipeline I have a woven romper block, a woven bodice block for dress development, a coat block – the list goes on!
All blocks will be available in my Etsy shop and on my web site.
Welcome to part two of this 2 part series. If you missed part one you can always catch it on my blog page! In part one we looked at the front of a pattern envelope. Now let’s take a look at the back of the envelope in more detail. We will also look at some common pattern markings so when you pick up a dress making pattern your will feel much more at ease.
The envelope back becomes a little more technical, and here you will find all the additional information you need in order to purchase fabric and trimmings – otherwise known as ‘notions’. You will certainly need your glasses for the back of the envelope as there is so much information crammed into a very small space!
The back of the pattern may show you the back views of the garment, if they did not appear on the front of the envelope.
The envelope will tell you how many Pattern Pieces are
required for each style variation in the envelope. The most complex pattern I have
ever come across was by Issey Miyake, it only had 1 pattern piece, but it was
more like origami than a dress making pattern!
One of the most important pieces of information you will find on the back of your pattern envelope are the Style Details -for example the description may state that ‘the trouser front has a fly front opening’ – you may be put off the pattern at this point! Here you will also find a description of the garment, including an indication of the fit. This information is often the deciding factor when buying a pattern, as you can quickly decide if the pattern is the right one for you.
You will also be provided with fabric types suitable for the design, it’s best to stick to the suggested fabric when you first try a style, you are more likely to make a success of the project. Next time you make the pattern you can begin to experiment with different fabrics to create a different look.
Most pattern envelopes give you a very brief size chart,
this may be the bust, waist, or hip that each pattern size is intended to fit. This
is one part of the process that you should take a little time over. Selecting
the wrong size pattern that will not fit your actual body measurements can
waste so much time and effort. Always have a tape measure to hand and measure yourself.
Just because you usually take a size 12 on the high street does not mean that a
size 12 garment, made from a pattern, will fit you.
Notions: here you will see how many buttons to buy,
how long your zip needs to be etc. Notions are a complete list of all the extra
trimmings you need to buy in order to make your garment. It is always a good
idea to buy your sewing thread at the same time as you buy your fabric as you
want a good colour match. Tip – If you can’t quite get the right shade – better
lighter than darker!
The fabric quantity guide: this lets you know exactly how much fabric, lining and interfacing fabric you need to buy. These guides are usually quite generous so if you are on a particularly tight budget lay out your pattern pieces at home to see how much less fabric you can get away with. Or you can take your cut out pattern pieces to the fabric shop and lay them out – this can save you a lot of money!
Inside the pattern envelope.
A lay plan is the common term for the guide to putting your pattern pieces on the fabric, it’s worth taking the time to get this part right. You must place the pattern pieces on the fabric exactly as described. Fabric has what’s known as a grain and placing the fabric on the wrong grain will result in a garment that behaves differently to the designer’s intentions.
I wonder if you have ever worn a pair of jeans or leggings where the inside leg seam wraps to the front leg and no matter how much you pull, it will not go back. This happens when a trouser pattern is cut ‘off grain’. This means that the trouser pattern was not placed on the fabric correctly! It’s a common fault with cheap garments when the manufacturer wants to save money. Let’s look at how pattern pieces should be placed on fabric.
Take your time placing your pattern pieces on the fabric.
Knowing the selvedge of a fabric piece is the key to placing your pattern pieces correctly – often described as the finished edge of the fabric – here is a close up image to help you next time you visit a fabric shop. Its particularly important if you are buying remnant or off cut pieces of fabric.
Close up of the selvedge.
You will also find detailed making instructions inside the pattern envelope; the larger pattern companies produce detailed illustrations and a brief description of the sewing process. Smaller independent pattern companies often photograph the garment being made in stages and go into a lot more detail. Smaller pattern companies also produce guides to their patterns on YouTube! (see my bandeau top video on my YouTube channel)
Finally let’s look at some of the most common pattern markings. At first glance this can be a little daunting because there are so many lines and markings. Your making instructions will have a key and a description of each marking.
As I have already mentioned the most important pattern markings are the grain lines, the fold line – also illustrated above is also very important. The fold line indicates that you must place your pattern on the fold of the fabric to create a whole mirrored piece. Notches are placed on the pattern to enable you to match up the fabric sections as you are sewing them. This is a part of the process that many dress makers forget, however, they are essential. So always make sure you transfer all pattern markings to the fabric. Gone are the days of tailors’ chalk, modern dress makers use dissolvable pens to mark their patterns!
Notches are important!
I could go on forever as this is a huge topic and sewing using your first pattern will be a huge learning curve, but if you have any questions at all I am always happy to answer them!
Or If you have a pattern envelope that you don’t understand take a picture and let me take a look for you.
One of the styles available in my range of swim suit blocks.
I must admit that I much prefer to make my own swimwear, rather than buy it. It does take a little patience, but can easily be created on a regular sewing machine with a simple zig zag stitch. You will need some swim suit elastic, but that is now available online.
I have just updated my high back and high leg swim suit block, with UK, USA and EU size equivalents, plus added in some extra information of the pattern sheet.
Here are some photos of the toile, I really love the fit!
Cur high at the leg and high at the center back.A high cut leg shape.A snug fit over the bottom!
Why not give it a try, the block can be found here!
I am looking forward to updating the other swim suits I have in my range, and will be sure to let you know.
In part 1 of this project we covered drafting the panel piece you need to make an 8 panelled skirt. In part 2 we look at the methods you can use to sew the skirt together and some tips on how to change the look and design of the skirt.
If you missed part one, drafting of the pattern, take a look here and draft yourself a skirt pattern that fits your individual body measurements perfectly.
A note on suitable fabric for this skirt.
Most medium weight fabrics would be suitable for this style, even a soft denim would also work well, or a light weight chiffon would also give a lovely fluid hem, this is a very versatile style and as you experiment with different fabrics you will find they all give you a slightly different look.
How much fabric will you need?
You will need to purchase twice the length of your panel if the fabric is 125 cm or less in width, or why not take the panel to the fabric shop and ask them to help you calculate. You will also need ¼ meter of medium weight fusible interfacing and a 20 cm zip, and some matching thread of course.
You will need some bias binding if you choose to bind the inside of the skirt facing or the hemline (you can calculate this by measuring the hem of the facing panels and skirt hem) or make your own binding – I have a handy template and guide to making your own bias binding here on my blog page (see below for the link).
You will also need a hook and eye fastener to finish the top of the zip.
Let’s start sewing.
Applying a facing to
the skirt waist.
A facing gives a lovely clean finish and the technique can
be used on any garment hem edge, it’s particularly good for finishing armholes
and necklines too!
If you are using the single facing piece, i.e. the one we made a pattern for in part 1, then you will need to cut out the pattern piece 8 times in fabric and fusible interfacing. Fuse the fabric pieces to give them some strength and then sew them together as illustrated below – Press the seams open and set the facing aside for now. If you want to know more about fusible interfacing take a look at my blog post on the best way to apply fusing at home.
Cut out and fuse your individual facing pieces.Leave one side open for the zip.
An alternative method for creating your facing involves a little extra pattern drafting, but it will save you sewing time, so it may be worth a try…
Place 4 of the top skirt individual facing sections side by side, for this method you have to trace them before you add seam allowance.
This method eliminates the seams and creates less bulk, and saves sewing time! Cut this pattern piece twice in fabric and twice in fusing.
Finishing the facing
If you want a lovely neat finish on the inside of your skirt, you can bind the hem of your facing, this looks fantastic! Your local fabric shop will have a wide selection of ready made bias binding, or you can look here for a free guide and template to making and applying your own home make binding. I absolutely love making my own!
Take a look at my free guide and template for creating bias binding!
Sewing the main skirt
panels
Take all 8 skirt panels and stitch them together, placing each piece with right sides together, leave one seam open at the top by 20 cm – this is for the zip insertion. Press the seams open and neaten with your chosen method, this may be a zig zag stitch or if you have an overlocker then this is perfect. Or why not go mad and bind all the seams.
Sew all 8 together – leave one seam open for the zip.
Inserting the zip
Many people are afraid of inserting a zip, if you follow
these simple steps, and take your time, then your zip will be perfect!
Having left the seam open where the zip is to be inserted (20 cm zip is perfect) – press your seams open, so you have a nice crease along the stitch line.
Take your time.
Turn the skirt so the right side is to the outside. With the right side of the zip facing downwards pin the zip to the seam allowance of the skirt, with the teeth lying next to the crease line and the edge of the zip tape to the edge of the seam allowance. Sew the zip in place, 3 mm away from the zip teeth. You will have to stop as you get towards the bottom of the zip , if you can manage to, leave your needle in the work to make the next step easier, lift the zipper foot up and zip up the zipper so that you can continue to sew down to just below the metal base of the zip closure.
Pop the zip inside the skirt and press the zip from the right side gently flattening the crease you pressed in before.
Press carefully.
Now pin the zip into position again as shown and top stitch the zip from the right side.
Pin and press
Finishing the waist
line
Now you can finish the waist line by placing the facing piece to the skirt waist line with right sides together, fold the facing back at the zip seam or overlap by 1 cm each side and sew along the waist line.
Now flip the facing inside the skirt and press, you have a lovely waist finish! You can either hand sew, or machine stitch the ends of the facing overlaps by folding them in and securing them to the edge of the zip tape, just be careful not to catch the zip teeth.
Now all you need to do is hem the skirt, A very small hem is best for this style, press the hem up gently and pin in position, you will need to ease the hem as you sew it, try not to drag the hem along and cause ripples, I always prefer a hand sewn hem.
Now you have made one skirt, why not experiment with length and flair and create as many different versions as you like! If you would like to make this in a soft jersey fabric then take a look at my next post where I show you how.
Such a versatile style!
If you have any questions or comments then just leave me a message, I would love to see some pictures of your makes!
Don’t forget to read my next post for some more ideas for developing this skirt into a jersey version.
Here we have part 2 in the 6 part series on how to move darts around the bodice block. Please take a look and be sure to give me a thumbs up in YouTube and leave a comment or a question. If you subscribe you will be sure to catch all my upcoming videos!
Subscribe to be automatically notified when part 2 – 6 are released!
It’s hard work finding the time to make videos!
Finally I have a series of videos all related to moving the darts around the bodice block. I am always surprised when I have a message from a customer that tells me that the position of the dart, on the block they have just purchased from me, is not quite in the right position for them. I then show them how to move a dart, and a whole world opens up!
Its very unlikely that a designer would want to keep the bodice darts in the same position they are on the basic block, for every style they produce. This useful series of videos will show you the many options you have for dart positions. In part 1 we look at moving the waist dart into the shoulder.
Part 1 – find all your handouts for this mini course in the subscribers only area!
There are 6 parts to this first series which covers the slashing method of dart manipulation and you can download all your class materials in the members only area. You will need to subscribe to gain access to this area, once you are subscribed – check your spam folder if you cant find the e-mail – you will be sent the secret members password – please let me know if you need any help with this.
Click to watch and don’t forget to get your class materials and free half scale blocks and templates! Please give me a thumbs up and a comment! click to watch
Half scale size 12 Modeliste Creative Blocks – for my full scale range see below for a link to my Etsy Shop
For those of you that read my monthly magazine article in the French Publication DSM, here is a more detailed run through of the latest project. For everyone else, why not give this a try!
Part 1 –
Designing and Making Your Bespoke Flared Skirt
One Panel Creates A Skirt!
Have you ever wanted to make something that fits you
perfectly? Here is your chance to learn how to create the pattern for this
versatile 8 panel skirt, it is as simple as making 1 panel and cutting it out 8
times in fabric!
In part 2 of this project I will cover the skills you need
to sew the skirt.
Step 1 – Fill in your measurements on the handy chart below.
For this example I have inserted the average measurements for a size 12 in PINK for you to follow, you will of course have to substitute your own measurements for the pink ones!
The measurements in pink are an example set – insert your own.
Measure your waist and add some extra for movement, it you
want a fitted skirt add approximately 2 cm extra. If you want a looser skirt
you can add a little more. If you want to use a knitted fabric no extra above
your actual body measurement is needed. Now divide this total by 8 as
illustrated above.
Do the same for your top hip, this lies at 10 cm below your
waist and the same for your hip which lies at 21 cm below your waist line.
Decide on the skirt length you would like – we now have all the measurements we
need for you to make your pattern!
Step 2 – draw a vertical line on a large sheet of paper, the line needs to be slightly longer than the skirt length you have chosen. At the top of the line draw a horizontal line to represent the waist – each side of this line you can place the measurement you calculated for your waist (4.6 for my example placed equally each side of the centre). Ten centimeters below the waist level do the same for the top hip and again for the full hip. You can square down from the hip until you hit the line extended out for the length of skirt. Make the skirt long for an elegant evening version, or shorter for a flouncy summer skirt!
Step 3 – Now to add some flare! Decide where you would like the flare to ‘flare’ from. This can be as high up as the hip if you want. Place a horizontal line at this level to mark the flare line. Cut up the centre of the panel and to the side of the flare line and spread the pieces as illustrated below. You can open then as much or as little as you like, so long as they are opened equally each side.
Cut and Spread Equally
Step 4 – place the pieces on a new sheet of paper and trace the shape you have created. The waist can be shaped gently by extending the waist line up by 0.5 cm each side and gently curving at the centre.
Gently shape the waist…
Step 5 – all you need to do now is add some seam allowance and your main pattern piece is complete!
Step 6 – the
waist can be finished in several ways, the simplest way is to cut an exact copy
of the top of the skirt at a depth of 6 cm from the waist line, this will be
your facing panel and you will also cut the pattern piece 8 times in fabric.
You now have your pattern – in part 2 I will show you how to sew this lovely skirt and then we can take a look at how to develop the skirt for a knit fabric with an elasticated waist!
Such a versatile style!
See you next month for part 2 – sewing the paneled skirt.
I have been working on my latest block release for a long long time, trying hard to get a balance between super super body con fit and a dress that moves correctly in wear and finally I have it!
I also took the time to regrade and re-vamp the blocks sheet and add in some extra features. As I update my blocks from now on I am adding 1/4 scale versions of each block, perfect for practice and ideal for experimenting before you commit to drafting in full scale. I often work in 1/4 or half scale to develop complex patterns.
