Making a jersey version of the 8 panel skirt..

As promised, here is a quick guide to adapting the 8 panel skirt we drafted in our monthly free project guide, into a jersey version.

Firstly, if you are using jersey then there is no need to add extra for ease to your panel draft, just use your body measurements, as the knitted fabric will have enough flexibility for you to move. You can then continue as we did for the woven version. If you want to take a look at the instructions for drafting the panel then click here.

If you would like to elasticate the waist then you have 2 options for adapting the basic pattern draft as illustrated below. The pink option gives you gather at the waist line and is best for fabrics that don’t have enough stretch in them for you to be able to pull the skirt over your hips, option 2 in blue is for a more fitted version and relies on your fabric being stretchy enough to pull over the hips and bottom. Both methods require you inserting elastic into the channel at the waist. Make the rectangle above the waist line twice the width of your elastic, plus 1 cm for seam allowance.

Let me know if you have any questions and I would love to see some pictures of your makes!

Nicola

x

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Sewing The 8 Panel Skirt

In part 1 of this project we covered drafting the panel piece you need to make an 8 panelled skirt. In part 2 we look at the methods you can use to sew the skirt together and some tips on how to change the look and design of the skirt.

If you missed part one, drafting of the pattern, take a look here and draft yourself a skirt pattern that fits your individual body measurements perfectly.

A note on suitable fabric for this skirt.

Most medium weight fabrics would be suitable for this style, even a soft denim would also work well, or a light weight chiffon would also give a lovely fluid hem, this is a very versatile style and as you experiment with different fabrics you will find they all give you a slightly different look.

How much fabric will you need?

You will need to purchase twice the length of your panel if the fabric is 125 cm or less in width, or why not take the panel to the fabric shop and ask them to help you calculate. You will also need ¼ meter of medium weight fusible interfacing and a 20 cm zip, and some matching thread of course.

You will need some bias binding if you choose to bind the inside of the skirt facing or the hemline (you can calculate this by measuring the hem of the facing panels and skirt hem) or make your own binding – I have a handy template and guide to making your own bias binding here on my blog page (see below for the link).

You will also need a hook and eye fastener to finish the top of the zip.

Let’s start sewing.

Applying a facing to the skirt waist.

A facing gives a lovely clean finish and the technique can be used on any garment hem edge, it’s particularly good for finishing armholes and necklines too!

If you are using the single facing piece, i.e. the one we made a pattern for in part 1, then you will need to cut out the pattern piece 8 times in fabric and fusible interfacing. Fuse the fabric pieces to give them some strength and then sew them together as illustrated below – Press the seams open and set the facing aside for now. If you want to know more about fusible interfacing take a look at my blog post on the best way to apply fusing at home.

Cut out and fuse your individual facing pieces.
Leave one side open for the zip.

An alternative method for creating your facing involves a little extra pattern drafting, but it will save you sewing time, so it may be worth a try…

Place 4 of the top skirt individual facing sections side by side, for this method you have to trace them before you add seam allowance.

This method eliminates the seams and creates less bulk, and saves sewing time! Cut this pattern piece twice in fabric and twice in fusing.

Finishing the facing

If you want a lovely neat finish on the inside of your skirt, you can bind the hem of your facing, this looks fantastic! Your local fabric shop will have a wide selection of ready made bias binding, or you can look here for a free guide and template to making and applying your own home make binding. I absolutely love making my own!

Take a look at my free guide and template for creating bias binding!

Sewing the main skirt panels

Take all 8 skirt panels and stitch them together, placing each piece with right sides together, leave one seam open at the top by 20 cm – this is for the zip insertion. Press the seams open and neaten with your chosen method, this may be a zig zag stitch or if you have an overlocker then this is perfect. Or why not go mad and bind all the seams.

Sew all 8 together – leave one seam open for the zip.

Inserting the zip

Many people are afraid of inserting a zip, if you follow these simple steps, and take your time, then your zip will be perfect!

  • Having left the seam open where the zip is to be inserted (20 cm zip is perfect) – press your seams open, so you have a nice crease along the stitch line.
Take your time.
  • Turn the skirt so the right side is to the outside. With the right side of the zip facing downwards pin the zip to the seam allowance of the skirt, with the teeth lying next to the crease line and the edge of the zip tape to the edge of the seam allowance.  Sew the zip in place, 3 mm away from the zip teeth. You will have to stop as you get towards the bottom of the zip , if you can manage to, leave your needle in the work to make the next step easier, lift the zipper foot up and zip up the zipper so that you can continue to sew down to just below the metal base of the zip closure.
  •  Pop the zip inside the skirt and press the zip from the right side gently flattening the crease you pressed in before.
Press carefully.
  • Now pin the zip into position again as shown and top stitch the zip from the right side.
Pin and press

Finishing the waist line

Now you can finish the waist line by placing the facing piece to the skirt waist line with right sides together, fold the facing back at the zip seam or overlap by 1 cm each side and sew along the waist line.

Now flip the facing inside the skirt and press, you have a lovely waist finish! You can either hand sew, or machine stitch the ends of the facing overlaps by folding them in and securing them to the edge of the zip tape, just be careful not to catch the zip teeth.

Now all you need to do is hem the skirt, A very small hem is best for this style, press the hem up gently and pin in position, you will need to ease the hem as you sew it, try not to drag the hem along and cause ripples, I always prefer a hand sewn hem.

Now you have made one skirt, why not experiment with length and flair and create as many different versions as you like! If you would like to make this in a soft jersey fabric then take a look at my next post where I show you how.

Such a versatile style!

If you have any questions or comments then just leave me a message, I would love to see some pictures of your makes!

Don’t forget to read my next post for some more ideas for developing this skirt into a jersey version.

Nicola x

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The Japanese Evening Bag Project- Detailed Making Instructions

This months ‘DSM’ magazine features the ‘Japanese Bag’ project, inspired by my recent visit to Barcelona and a visit to the wonderful fabric shop called Nunoya, their web site can be found at www.nunoya.com . They will also ship fabric out to you. They stock the widest range of Japanese fabrics in Europe, what a great excuse for a weekend in Barcelona!

I was inspired to make a number of bags from this beautiful fabric, it is quite expensive but you only need a piece 55cm x 30cm for this bag!

Here is your free bag pattern and also a detailed making guide, and once the weather cools down here a little, I plan to make a video of the bag making process, as I am sure you will all love it!

Japanese Bag PDF Pattern

Sewing Instructions J-Bag

Please send me your bag photos and as always I am happy for you to make as many as you like and sell the items you make from my patterns, it’s only the patterns I like to protect.

Next months free pattern is for my most used pattern, I make myself this smock top all the time, with short sleeves, long sleeves, longer hems, it’s so versatile. Make sure you are subscribed and you won’t miss out. In fact I am just off to make one for a wedding I am going to in August!

Happy sewing!

Nicola

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