Modeliste Creative

How to Sew in Shoulder Pads & Sleeve Head Roll Explained!

January 11, 2022 No Comments

A Guide to Shoulder Pads!

Shoulder pads are a necessary part of jacket construction, but I often wonder how many sewers know the correct procedure for sewing in a shoulder pad – In this post I cover the basics and introduce you to ‘sleeve head roll’ – If you would like to join me on an advanced pattern cutting course (online) you will also learn how to adapt a pattern to allow for a shoulder pad – read on to learn more!

First A Note About Sleeve Head Roll

Before we look at shoulder pads in detail let’s take a look at sleeve head roll. Sleeve head roll is placed at the sleeve head to allow the fabric to ‘roll’ off the armhole at the shoulder and create a tailored, supported and smooth look. It forms a kind of platform and supports the sleeve head and avoids wrinkles.

Sleeve head roll should be hand sewn in before the shoulder pad is attached.

It is possible to make your own sleeve head roll or you can purchase ready made sleeve head roll as illustrated below.

Why Not Make Your Own Sleeve Head Roll With Wadding.

See my pattern shape download for shoulder pads and sleeve head roll suggested shapes – available as a free download on my advanced pattern cutting course.

Or read on to learn how to make your own pattern shape from your sleeve pattern piece.

To create your own pattern shape simply plan as shown on the finished sleeve pattern -note that the pattern should have seam allowance already included.

Sewing Shoulder Pads into a Jacket – General Guidelines

Tips

If you are using sleeve head roll, it should already be sewn in.
Pin the shoulder pads into the jacket first to check they are where you would like them to be. Your shoulder shape and personal preference will ultimately dictate the position – here are some guidelines
Shoulder pads should cover most of the shoulder – they can be set back from the neckline by up to 2.5 cm (1″).The pad should extend over the shoulder seam allowance by between 1 cm to 1.5 cm (3/8″ – 9/16″)
The shoulder pad should be positioned so that the back has an extra 1 – 1.5 cm (3/8″ – 9/16″) in length – measured from the shoulder seam.
Pin at the shoulder seam allowance first, leave loose everywhere else.
Place on the dress stand or body and pin the shoulder pad into position through the right side of the jacket fabric to make sure there are no wrinkles or pulls.
Push the sleeve and armhole seam allowance outwards to create a platform for extra structure.
At the armhole stitch through the shoulder pad and the jacket seam allowance and the sleeve head roll to secure first.
Secure at the neckline area in 3 places as shown.
Stitch mid way along the curved shoulder pad edge at front and back. Leave the shoulder pad as loose as you can in all other areas.
Use a couple of tailor tacks or hand stitches where the red marks are placed.
Note that the jacket should now be dry cleaned.
The jacket lining an now be attached

Types Of Shoulder Pads

There are 2 main types of shoulder pad

The Triangular Pad – this is the most common type of pad and is used to create structure and add sharpness to a jacket style. This type of pad is commonly used in tailored jacket styles.

The Rounded Pad – this type of pad is designed to create a rounder softer look and is commonly used in grown on sleeve styles such as kimono sleeves.

Shoulder pads come in a wide range of sizes and thickness and must be selected according to personal preference and the desired silhouette required. Below we will take a look at my go to shoulder pads and supplier links to the pads featured.

Constructed Shoulder Pads

Constructed Shoulder Pads are an essential tailoring supply if you are making jackets or coats.
This wadded shoulder pad is hand stitched together from layers of wadding and can be trimmed to size.
Available in white and grey
Constructed Shoulders Pad –Average Dimensions:
Length (longest side): 23 cm
Width at shoulder line: 12.5 cm
Thickness (at thickest section): 2.5 cm

Click the link here to find a supplier for this type of pad….Tailored Soft Felt Layered Pad

While you can make these pads yourself you can also purchase them ready made!

Join My Advanced Pattern Cutting Course to Learn How To Create These Pads Yourself!

Nude Foam Shoulder Pads

Foam Shoulder Pads are ideal for jacket and tailored blouse styles.

Suitable for use in jackets and coats when you only need a little lift and shape, and can be trimmed to size.

The foam provides a stiffer, more structured finish. These pads are designed so they can be covered with fabric

Additional Information:

Colour: Natural Foam – please note that the foam can discolour when exposed to the air – but you can cover them easily in a suitable fabric.

Size: 13mm lift – height

Dimensions (all sizes are approx. and will vary slightly due to the curve of the pad):

Length (when arched): 11cm

Length (when flat): 14cm

Width at shoulder line: 9cm

Thickness(at thickest section): 13mm (1.3cm)

This type of pad can be purchased here – Nude Foam Shoulder Pads Link

Foam Covered Jacket Pads

These Foam Covered Shoulder Pads are an essential tailoring supply if you are making jackets and coats.

Soft and finished nicely with nylon, and overlocked edges – they are extremely comfortable and keep their shape well!

Detailed Product Information:

Constructed Shoulders Pad – Dimensions:

Length (when arched): 15 cm

Length (when flat): 20 cm

Width (shoulder line) : 11.5 cm

Thickness (at thickest section): 2.5 cm (1 inch) – Note that the foam will compress slightly with the weight of the fabric in the garment.

This type of jacket pad can be purchased here – Foam Covered Jacket Pads Link

Why Not Join Me For a Course!

I have recently launched my coursed online, via teachable, you can find out all about my courses here on my blog page or simply email me at onitnotinit@mail.com for more information.

PDF pattern templates are available as well as many other useful templates and downloads as part of my Advanced Pattern Cutting Course!

Happy Pattern Cutting & Sewing!

Nicola

courses

Online Professional Pattern Cutting Course – Now Live!

September 16, 2021 2 Comments

Professional Pattern Cutting Course

After months of planning, writing and filming videos I am now ready to launch the ‘Professional Pattern Cutting Course’.

If you are a beginner or someone that wants to learn professional pattern cutting methods and build good solid working practice then this course will suit you. The course starts from the very foundations of pattern cutting and builds on that knowledge to develop a thorough grounding in pattern cutting. If you feel you have gaps in your knowledge and want a detailed, professional education in pattern cutting then you have come to the right place!

With Over 80 lessons and over 50 videos in the ‘Professional Pattern Cutting Course’ I think you will agree that the course has a great deal of valuable content!

If you feel you already have a good grounding in pattern cutting then please take a look at my other courses, if you would like to take your pattern cutting to the next level –

The Professional Pattern Cutting Course course will be a stepping stone to my more advanced courses which will include – Adobe Illustrator for Pattern Cutters, (which has just been released) – Advanced Pattern Cutting Course which will be released soon after. I also have a Draping Course and a Pattern Cutting for Babies and Children’s’ Wear Course planned! I also can’t wait to have the time to write a Grading Course.

Below you can watch a quick video (called a ‘supercut’ – my husband tells me!) that shows you all the sections of The Professional Pattern Cutting Course.

Professional Pattern Cutting Course ‘Supercut’

The ‘Professional Pattern Cutting Course’ has 3 parts.

The first part is made up of 15 lessons, with some videos, where appropriate. It gives you all the background and essential knowledge you need to understand pattern cutting. This section can be used as a reference guide, whilst you are free to read it all in one go it is really intended to be something you dip in and out of as you need to. Used in this way it is also more likely that the information will sink in.

The second part of the course is much more practical, we start with skirts and move on to bodice pattern cutting including rotating darts. Bodices are followed by trouser styles, drafting collars and finally basic sleeve pattern cutting.

The lessons are structured in a way that means you read my lesson notes that describe the pattern cutting steps in great details and then watch the video that supports the notes.

Section 3 of the course gets to the ‘nitty gritty’ of pattern cutting. Here I guide you through the finer details of pattern cutting, adding button stands, fitting lines etc. I will also cover darts in great details and you will learn how to pivot darts professionally.

There are lots of PDF’s to download, and charts as well as a set of quarter and half scale blocks for you to download and follow along. Obviously you can follow along in full scale, using your own blocks, if you prefer. I work in half scale for the course so that the whole process can fit into the video frame, this means you can see everything I am doing.

If all that wasn’t enough I have also added a number of bonus modules that cover pattern drafting for shirts and blouse styles and I show you my favourite shirt draft!

I cover the importance of technical sketches and also introduce you to draping on the dress stand.

I couldn’t resist adding a section in to start you drafting your own blocks, if you choose to.

Finally a section of the course that I intend to build and add to as the course grows – called PATTERN MAPS.

In PATTERN MAPS I intend to add visual guides to pattern drafts to inspire you!

If you have any further questions about the course then feel free to email me at onitnotinit@mail.com – I am always happy to answer any questions you may have.

To have a closer look at all my course please click the image below.

Please follow this link to see an up to date version of all my courses https://patterndesignschool.teachable.com/

If you have any questions at all then please let me know at nicola@patterndesignschool.co.uk

Happy Pattern Cutting!

Nicola

Current Projects

Why I have been so quiet recently! My New business!

December 12, 2020 No Comments

You may have noticed that recently I have been very quiet here on my blog site, and I am now ready to let you all know why!

I have been busy creating a new business.

Lockdown released me from all my teaching and course commitments, and as I am not one to just sit around I decided to create a brand new business.

I wanted to make something that was fun and colourful. Something that would give anybody who is interested in craft or fashion an economical and interesting way to get involved in sewing and creating clothing the right way.

My passion has always been teaching, and I love helping people of all ages and abilities to start sewing or improve their sewing and use patterns, so to this end I created Wabi-Sabi Life – and a range of 7 dolls or ‘charters’ as I like to call them.

Each character has their own fabric, and a matching wardrobe.

I have used all my skills to create the fabrics myself and designed them with extra small prints, so they are perfect for these 1:6 size dolls – they even have their own range of t-shirts printed on stretch lycra!

I absolutely loved making these tiny kimonos.

I have put as much time and effort into making the patterns for my character garments as I do for my full size patterns! The sewing techniques are the same for these tiny garments as they are for full size garments and the skills are the same! I now look at tiny scraps of fabric in a completely new way! Even the smallest scraps can be used to make something wonderful! And with fabric being so expensive at the moment that really is a plus.

Each kit comes in cardboard packaging and we try to avoid plastic packaging as much as we possibly can!

I have also created a detailed making guided for each project and a YouTube video to guide the maker through the whole process. These can all be found over at my new blog site www.wabisabistudio.co.uk.

Wabi-Sabi studio is also the place to ask questions about the projects!

All these products are available in my brand new Etsy shop so if you would like to introduce sewing to a beginner in a fun way or start a new hobby then why not take a look!

Use the coupon code below for 10% off any order.

https://www.etsy.com/shop/WabiSabiLifeDesigns?coupon=MODELISTECREATIVE10

I began my sewing journey sewing small mice out of fabric scraps, and I truly believe that sewing is a skill that everyone should possess and who knows where it would lead!

Oh and by the way, I also created a range of purse, pencil case and bag kits to match. With a range of colourful Wabi-Sabi branded children’s and adult clothing in the pipeline!

On top of all that with a little help (well a lot actually), I have finally made some progress with social media! So if you would like to – follow, join, subscribe or like then see below! Phew.

Social Media Links:

I hope to have a more time now to get back to my full size projects, but to be honest I am having so much fun with these tiny garments that I am certain to be adding many more outfits to the collection!

Hope to see you over at Wabi-Sabi Life!

Nicola

design and pattern cutting, Pattern Cutting Techniques, Sewing Techniques

‘Easing’ a sleeve head into an armhole – professionally!

December 11, 2020 No Comments

This very important step is sadly one that is often rushed or even missed out completely by pattern makers and sewers, there is no doubt that it takes time and skill to insert a sleeve into an armhole and deal with the ease in the sleeve head correctly.

There is preparation involved and many commercial sewing pattern guidelines do not follow the correct methods, they adopt short cuts, to be fair to them it would be difficult to explain the whole process and it would simply take too long.

Most high street clothing manufacturers remove a large quantity of the ease from the sleeve head as it makes the sewing process much easier for the machinist in the factory, at the expense of good fit. Little or no ease in the sleeve head can make the sleeve hang badly and create drag lines at the top of the arm and bicep.

In this post I am going to focus on the best way to deal with the ease in the sleeve head, if you have read my earlier posts on sleeve head ease then you will be familiar with how to increase or decrease the ease in your sleeve pattern. I am going to show you my method of sewing a sleeve into an armhole and how I ease in the extra fabric we often have at the crown.

The above image shows the front and back bodice laid on top of the sleeve block. The pink arrows show that the back armhole and back sleeve up to the double notch positions match perfectly, and they should, as there is no ease in this part of the sleeve. The blue arrow shows how the point onwards from the notches on the back bodice matches the back sleeve – note how the measurement of the back bodice doesn’t quite make it to the notch at the sleeve head.

If we travel from the green arrow on the front armhole and apply the same measurement to the sleeves again we see that the front sleeve and armhole match perfectly from the underarm seam up to the single front notch. The orange arrows show the measurement, taken from the front bodice, of the remaining armhole, and applied to the sleeve, again this measurement stops short of the notch at the top of the sleeve.

The area marked in yellow is our ‘EASE’ and this ease needs to be ‘eased’ in between the back armhole notches and the front armhole notch.

How easy this step is depends very much on the fabric you are using, in my example I used a calico, with very little softness, if I had used a wool with a loose weave then I would have found compressing the fabric much easier!

I am easing in the maximum quantity of ease, just over 6 cm.

Make 2 rows of stitching, a narrow distance apart, they should be just inside your seam allowance.

Use the ends of the threads to pull in the fabric and compress the ease, you are aiming for a smooth line with no pleats or tucks, you can also use steam to help compress and shrink the fabric. This may take some time, but be patient and you will manage it. I have 6.2 cm ease in this example and I have manage to ease it all in between the notches.

When you are happy with the sleeve head, it is then time to pin the sleeve into the armhole, all the notches should match perfectly.

There is a saying in sewing ‘we never want a saggy bottom’ this will help you remember that any excess you have to ease in should always be at the top!

A tailors ham is the best tool for pressing and steaming the sleeve head.

The sleeve head should roll off the armhole at the top, as all the ease you compressed is released. As I am using a stiff calico the effect is not as beautiful as it would be if I were to use a wool fabric that compressed easily.

I hope this helps you with your sleeve sewing and improves the fit and appearance of your next sleeve!

Happy sewing and pattern making,

Nicola

Current Projects

The Straight Top – making the most of your block with the free collar template…

June 7, 2020 2 Comments

As with any basic block, whether it is one you have drafted yourself, or one you have purchased from me, you should always make a toile. This important first step allows you to assess the fit of the block and all its proportions.

My straight top block has been manipulated to remove all the darts, but still gives a good fit over the bust area.

I use this block for shirts, bomber jackets, casual tops, etc etc.

I have recently drafted a basic collar shape for this block, so for those of you that already have the block here is the free collar template. Simply download and open in Adobe Acrobat reader and print at 100% scale – there is a control square on the page and this should measure 2.5 cm x 2.5 cm (1 inch x 1 inch)

straight-top-block-free-collar-template-A4 Download

Once you have this basic collar template you can experiment with the ‘leaf edge’ of the collar and create your own collar designs – the ‘neck edge’ needs to stay the same – as it has been drafted to fit your block.

I hope this ‘free template’ save you time – I would love to see the designs you produce from this versatile basic block!

Happy pattern cutting & sewing!

Nicola

Current Projects

The Contour Fitted Corset Block – a must have block!

May 12, 2020 No Comments

My contour fitted corset block was developed by modelling or draping, as it’s often called, directly on the mannequin. Using this technique gives a shape that fits to the curves of the body perfectly!

I use mine for developing a range of styles and also as a base layer for complicated draped designs, it gives me a secure base to be able to create some beautiful draped garments.

Each pattern piece is related directly to the shape of the body!

As you can see – instead of the normal shaping of a regular bodice, the seams are more curved – this created a shape that curves to the contours of the body and fits like a glove!

The pink line shows a contoured fit from a side view- over the bust shape – compared to a regular fit shown by the purple line

This is of course a basic block, which means that it has no seam allowance added . The style can be sewn up as it is, with no changes to the block. Just add seam allowance to each seam you intend to sew – there’s no need to add seam allowance to the center front as this is placed on a fold line when cutting in fabric (if you keep to the basic design). It’s also a good idea to add a generous quantity of seam allowance around the pattern piece (1.5 cm). This will allow you to fit the garment to the wearer and make adjustments for individual figure types.

Cut out and sew each vertical seam first in the order shown above – Pin to a body first to see the shape if you need to.

How the corset looks when sewn up with no adaptation – the white dotted lines show the center front panel which is cut on the fold of the fabric.

You can use this basic shape as it is or as a base to create your own designs – here are some of the designs that you could make from this basic shape!

Alter the shaping of the center front panel for a different look!

Use as a base to enable you to create draped styles.

Use with a comfort stretch fabric and add to a skirt to form a dress!

I hope this short post gives you some inspiration on what you can do with this basic waisted corset shape – it’s always a good idea to cut out the basic pieces in a trial fabric, for example a calico. You can then fit the shapes to a dress stand, or a willing model, to get an idea of the shape.

Why not draw on the shape to change the design, pin draped sections on top, I would love to see what you can do!

You may also find my post on applying boning to a corset helpful – https://modelistecreative.com/2018/05/06/how-to-use-rigilene-polyester-boning-properly/

As always, if you have any questions then please ask – the basic contoured corset block is available as a PDF instant download and also as a physical printed pattern sheet. (Note the printed pattern sheet has seam allowance added for you)

Happy Sewing,

Nicola

Current Projects, Free Downloads

The 3D Face Mask Pattern

April 16, 2020 4 Comments

I have been making these face masks for family and friends, so thought I would share the pattern here on my blog – it’s totally free – you can make as many as you like, all I ask is that you don’t make money from them – I feel in times like this we should help others and not try to profit.

I made the first prototype and then adjusted the pattern to allow more space at the front for breathing.

3D mask! Modeled by my partner Steve! (reluctantly)

Here is the pattern – simply open it as a PDF in Adobe Reader and print – let me know if you need any help – see below for the making guide.

FREE-3D-FACEMASK-PATTERN-3-x-A4-pages Download

You will need a piece of cotton fabric 20 cm x 60 cm to cut 2 layers

The mask can also be made of terry towelling and in that case you can cut 1 layer of fabric.

Sew a small dart at the top – for the nose. Now sew a dart seam at the base for the chin shaping. Press the seams – you will need to clip in at the chin shaping to allow you to press the seam open.

Have the darts going in different directions – to avoid bulk!

I pressed my nose darts in different directions, one to the left and one to the right – to avoid too much bulk at the nose.

Place the layers together – right sides out.

Now place the 2 layers together with the right sides of the fabric facing outwards and use a straight stitch to hold the 2 layers together

Pin the pleats in position – in the direction shown on the pattern piece and sew with a straight stitch to secure. You can do the previous 2 steps all in one go if you are an experienced sewer!

I used FOE – Fold over elastic to bind my mask – mainly because I have plenty of it and also because it stretches so the ties are better. You can also use plain cotton bias binding – see my post on making your own bias binding https://modelistecreative.com/2018/02/19/make-sew-your-own-bias-binding-tape/

– or see my YouTube video on applying FOE if you need any help with this.

Watch if you need to – leave a comment and a thumbs up!

Bind the edges of the mask first – you have already secured the pleats in position with a holding stitch so this should be easier.

I used a zig zag stitch to apply my elastic binding.

Now continue to apply binding to the top and bottom of the mask. I used elastic binding which allowed me to pull a little over the nose and under the chin to make the mask a snugger fit.

leave ends as ties – mine are 20 cm long – you may want them a little longer if you are using cotton bias binding.

As always I am happy to answer any questions, just leave a comment below.

Happy mask making!

Nicola

Current Projects

Sewing a Super Cute Baby Onesie – Body Suit

February 25, 2020 No Comments

Here is part 2 of my baby body suit video series – made to support the baby onesie basic block sheet. The video is also useful for those who want to know how to sew a baby body suit – or in fact an adult one. The techniques demonstrated in this video are perfect for all jersey projects. And I get to use my new popper machine!

The popper machine I use in the video can be found at:

https://amzn.to/2TbhACC

You can find the baby onesie block sheet in my etsy shop:

https://www.etsy.com/uk/listing/758583054/baby-body-block-sloper-height-53-cm-to?ref=shop_home_active_10&frs=1

Plus lots more baby blocks and more coming soon!

Nicola x

Current Projects

The Wrap Over Top – Pattern Development

February 22, 2020 3 Comments

I love a wrap over top style. This is something you can do with your basic bodice block or you can use this technique and apply it to a pattern you already have.

As this is an a-symmetrical style – you will need to work on a whole front pattern piece. Mirror your basic shape at the center front.

Mirror your pattern piece at the center front – to make a whole front.

It’s always best to move darts out of the way when you are planning a style line – cut along the lines with the little scissors symbols and fold out the darts with the little arrows! Of course if the shape you have doesn’t have darts then you can miss out this step.

See my videos on moving darts to different locations if you want to know more about moving darts.

Now plan the new neckline shaping…

Plan the new neckline from the shoulder – make sure it isn’t too narrow or it may slip off in wear – continue across the center front. You will need a little notch at the center front for fitting. Dip under the bust – making sure you avoid the fullness of the bust shape. Stop at the side seam if you want to or you can add a tie extension here that wraps around the body secures the garment.

Now cut along the neckline and remove the part you don’t need. Now plan the drape lines as shown.

Cut along the drape lines and fold out the remaining dart and watch the drape lines open up!

Now you can trace around the whole pattern shape. Cut a left and a right side. The little notch you placed at the center front now becomes important – as this is where the left and the right pattern piece will meet at the center front.

Why not give this technique a try – the same method can be used to create a wrap over skirt!

See you soon for more pattern cutting and sewing techniques.

Nicola x

Current Projects

The Baby Body Block – or Onesie – How to draft a pattern from this basic block

February 14, 2020 2 Comments

One of my latest blocks sheet is the baby body block – in this video I show you how to create a pattern for a baby onesie. In part 2 of this video series I will cover how to sew the pattern together.

If you get a moment please like the video and place a quick comment – it really helps.

If you would like to take a close look at the block sheet then you can find in in my Etsy shop: https://etsy.me/2ORGqGq

Don’t forget to give me a like, and a comment – I love to hear from you!

See you soon for part 2 when we will sew the onesie together.

Lots more basic blocks and slopers in the pipeline!

Nicola x

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