I am finally ready to release my latest course, Adobe illustrator for Pattern Cutting – The course is aimed at pattern cutters that want to take their skills to the next level and create beautiful, accurate, digital patterns – using the tools available in Adobe illustrator.
The first short video below will introduce you to the course, the second will give you some more detail about the course structure. You can also download the lesson plan file as PDF to take a closer look.
You will find that there are almost 100 lessons and nearly as many videos – it’s a detailed course!
The course is available as three options –
The first option is to join the course – with practice blocks supplied in single sizes.
The second option is to join the course with a full set of digital layered Modeliste Creative blocks supplied as Ai files – This includes the skirt, trouser, bodice & sleeve blocks sets is sizes 6-18UK (2 – 14 USA) plus the A-line skirt set in sizes 6-22 UK (2-18 USA) – to get you off to a fantastic start!
The third option comes with all that is mentioned above PLUS 2 hours one to one mentorship from me – if you are setting up an ‘indie’ pattern business this is a fantastic option – Places on the course with mentorship are limited so please ask if you find the course is full as I can place you on my waiting list and let you know when the next place will be available.
If you have purchased one of my basic blocks sheets, or if you have drafted and graded a set of basic blocks yourself, you will find the following guidelines useful.
My ready printed and graded blocks come with no seam allowance added – the exception to this may be some of my menswear blocks that traditionally have 1cm (3/8″) seam allowance included – and this will be clearly marked on the sheet. You should always trace the basic block you need from the master copy. Keeping the master copy safe is essential for 2 reasons, the first is that you can use it again and again, the second it that you can refer to it if things don’t match and check you have indeed traced the correct size and shape.
The very first thing any pattern cutter should do with a new basic block is to make a ‘toile’ – a toile is simply the technical term for a basic block sewn up in its very basic form – there are additional guidelines to follow here, so let’s take a look.
As we have already established, a toile is a prototype or a trial garment. Toiles are normally made up in calico for woven garments and a knit, that is most similar to the finished garments, for knit blocks. Toiles are also referred to as muslins in the USA.
Calico is a popular choice for woven toiles as it comes in different weights and is light in colour. This makes it easy to see the changes that need to be made and the toile can also be drawn on to note the changes required. It’s worth noting that pattern cutters make several toiles to test their patterns to perfect them, so this is very normal practice in the fashion industry.
Toiles do not need to be finished garments, in fact to speed up the process there is no need to place any seam allowance on hems. Placing seam allowance on the neckline of a toile is the wrong thing to do. This is because the seam allowance will prevent you from seeing where the neckline actually sits, and the seam allowance may also distort the neckline. Adding hem allowance to a garment also prevents you from seeing where the hem will sit when finished.
Sampling complex design details such as unusual pockets and intricate design details can be practiced as small samples to save time and fabric. I must admit that very often I do make ‘wearable’ toiles, where I finish off the toile to the standard of a wearable garment.
It is however normally not necessary to complete a toile to a finished garment stage.
As a pattern cutter, it is essential to view a toile before any pattern development takes place. A toile is simply a starting point for you design, whether you are making a simple change like adding a patch pocket or drastic changes and developing an entirely new style, knowing your starting point is essential. Once you have your toile prepared you can then make any fit adjustments before making style changes. The toile can then be kept with the basic block for quick reference every time you need to use it.
Knit garments require knit toiles.
If you would like to learn more about professional pattern design then why not join me for a course – email me at onitnotinit@mail.com or take a look at my blog page for course details.
Shoulder pads are a necessary part of jacket construction, but I often wonder how many sewers know the correct procedure for sewing in a shoulder pad – In this post I cover the basics and introduce you to ‘sleeve head roll’ – If you would like to join me on an advanced pattern cutting course (online) you will also learn how to adapt a pattern to allow for a shoulder pad – read on to learn more!
FirstA Note About Sleeve Head Roll
Before we look at shoulder pads in detail let’s take a look at sleeve head roll. Sleeve head roll is placed at the sleeve head to allow the fabric to ‘roll’ off the armhole at the shoulder and create a tailored, supported and smooth look. It forms a kind of platform and supports the sleeve head and avoids wrinkles.
Sleeve head roll should be hand sewn in before the shoulder pad is attached.
It is possible to make your own sleeve head roll or you can purchase ready made sleeve head roll as illustrated below.
Sewing In Sleeve Head Roll
Why Not Make Your Own Sleeve Head Roll With Wadding.
See my pattern shape download for shoulder pads and sleeve head roll suggested shapes – available as a free download on my advanced pattern cutting course.
Or read on to learn how to make your own pattern shape from your sleeve pattern piece.
To create your own pattern shape simply plan as shown on the finished sleeve pattern -note that the pattern should have seam allowance already included.
Sewing Shoulder Pads into a Jacket – General Guidelines
Tips
If you are using sleeve head roll, it should already be sewn in.
Pin the shoulder pads into the jacket first to check they are where you would like them to be. Your shoulder shape and personal preference will ultimately dictate the position – here are some guidelines
Shoulder pads should cover most of the shoulder – they can be set back from the neckline by up to 2.5 cm (1″).The pad should extend over the shoulder seam allowance by between 1 cm to 1.5 cm (3/8″ – 9/16″)
The shoulder pad should be positioned so that the back has an extra 1 – 1.5 cm (3/8″ – 9/16″) in length – measured from the shoulder seam.
Pin at the shoulder seam allowance first, leave loose everywhere else.
Place on the dress stand or body and pin the shoulder pad into position through the right side of the jacket fabric to make sure there are no wrinkles or pulls.
Push the sleeve and armhole seam allowance outwards to create a platform for extra structure.
At the armhole stitch through the shoulder pad and the jacket seam allowance and the sleeve head roll to secure first.
Secure at the neckline area in 3 places as shown.
Stitch mid way along the curved shoulder pad edge at front and back. Leave the shoulder pad as loose as you can in all other areas.
Use a couple of tailor tacks or hand stitches where the red marks are placed.
Note that the jacket should now be dry cleaned.
The jacket lining an now be attached
Types Of Shoulder Pads
There are 2 main types of shoulder pad
The Triangular Pad – this is the most common type of pad and is used to create structure and add sharpness to a jacket style. This type of pad is commonly used in tailored jacket styles.
The Rounded Pad – this type of pad is designed to create a rounder softer look and is commonly used in grown on sleeve styles such as kimono sleeves.
Shoulder pads come in a wide range of sizes and thickness and must be selected according to personal preference and the desired silhouette required. Below we will take a look at my go to shoulder pads and supplier links to the pads featured.
Constructed Shoulder Pads
Constructed Shoulder Pads are an essential tailoring supply if you are making jackets or coats. This wadded shoulder pad is hand stitched together from layers of wadding and can be trimmed to size. Available in white and grey Constructed Shoulders Pad –Average Dimensions: Length (longest side): 23 cm Width at shoulder line: 12.5 cm Thickness (at thickest section): 2.5 cm
While you can make these pads yourself you can also purchase them ready made! Join My Advanced Pattern Cutting Course to Learn How To Create These Pads Yourself!
Nude Foam Shoulder Pads
Foam Shoulder Pads are ideal for jacket and tailored blouse styles.
Suitable for use in jackets and coats when you only need a little lift and shape, and can be trimmed to size.
The foam provides a stiffer, more structured finish. These pads are designed so they can be covered with fabric
Additional Information:
Colour: Natural Foam – please note that the foam can discolour when exposed to the air – but you can cover them easily in a suitable fabric.
Size: 13mm lift – height
Dimensions (all sizes are approx. and will vary slightly due to the curve of the pad):
I have recently launched my coursed online, via teachable, you can find out all about my courses here on my blog page or simply email me at onitnotinit@mail.com for more information.
PDF pattern templates are available as well as many other useful templates and downloads as part of my Advanced Pattern Cutting Course!
After months of planning, writing and filming videos I am now ready to launch the ‘Professional Pattern Cutting Course’.
If you are a beginner or someone that wants to learn professional pattern cutting methods and build good solid working practice then this course will suit you. The course starts from the very foundations of pattern cutting and builds on that knowledge to develop a thorough grounding in pattern cutting. If you feel you have gaps in your knowledge and want a detailed, professional education in pattern cutting then you have come to the right place!
With Over 80 lessons and over 50 videos in the ‘Professional Pattern Cutting Course’ I think you will agree that the course has a great deal of valuable content!
If you feel you already have a good grounding in pattern cutting then please take a look at my other courses, if you would like to take your pattern cutting to the next level –
The Professional Pattern Cutting Course course will be a stepping stone to my more advanced courses which will include – Adobe Illustrator for Pattern Cutters, (which has just been released) – Advanced Pattern Cutting Course which will be released soon after. I also have a Draping Course and a Pattern Cutting for Babies and Children’s’ Wear Course planned! I also can’t wait to have the time to write a Grading Course.
Below you can watch a quick video (called a ‘supercut’ – my husband tells me!) that shows you all the sections of The Professional Pattern Cutting Course.
The first part is made up of 15 lessons, with some videos, where appropriate. It gives you all the background and essential knowledge you need to understand pattern cutting. This section can be used as a reference guide, whilst you are free to read it all in one go it is really intended to be something you dip in and out of as you need to. Used in this way it is also more likely that the information will sink in.
The second part of the course is much more practical, we start with skirts and move on to bodice pattern cutting including rotating darts. Bodices are followed by trouser styles, drafting collars and finally basic sleeve pattern cutting.
The lessons are structured in a way that means you read my lesson notes that describe the pattern cutting steps in great details and then watch the video that supports the notes.
Section 3 of the course gets to the ‘nitty gritty’ of pattern cutting. Here I guide you through the finer details of pattern cutting, adding button stands, fitting lines etc. I will also cover darts in great details and you will learn how to pivot darts professionally.
There are lots of PDF’s to download, and charts as well as a set of quarter and half scale blocks for you to download and follow along. Obviously you can follow along in full scale, using your own blocks, if you prefer. I work in half scale for the course so that the whole process can fit into the video frame, this means you can see everything I am doing.
If all that wasn’t enough I have also added a number of bonus modules that cover pattern drafting for shirts and blouse styles and I show you my favourite shirt draft!
I cover the importance of technical sketches and also introduce you to draping on the dress stand.
I couldn’t resist adding a section in to start you drafting your own blocks, if you choose to.
Finally a section of the course that I intend to build and add to as the course grows – called PATTERN MAPS.
In PATTERN MAPS I intend to add visual guides to pattern drafts to inspire you!
If you have any further questions about the course then feel free to email me at onitnotinit@mail.com – I am always happy to answer any questions you may have.
To have a closer look at all my course please click the image below.
You may have noticed that recently I have been very quiet here on my blog site, and I am now ready to let you all know why!
I have been busy creating a new business.
Lockdown released me from all my teaching and course commitments, and as I am not one to just sit around I decided to create a brand new business.
I wanted to make something that was fun and colourful. Something that would give anybody who is interested in craft or fashion an economical and interesting way to get involved in sewing and creating clothing the right way.
My passion has always been teaching, and I love helping people of all ages and abilities to start sewing or improve their sewing and use patterns, so to this end I created Wabi-Sabi Life – and a range of 7 dolls or ‘charters’ as I like to call them.
Each character has their own fabric, and a matching wardrobe.
I have used all my skills to create the fabrics myself and designed them with extra small prints, so they are perfect for these 1:6 size dolls – they even have their own range of t-shirts printed on stretch lycra!
I absolutely loved making these tiny kimonos.
I have put as much time and effort into making the patterns for my character garments as I do for my full size patterns! The sewing techniques are the same for these tiny garments as they are for full size garments and the skills are the same! I now look at tiny scraps of fabric in a completely new way! Even the smallest scraps can be used to make something wonderful! And with fabric being so expensive at the moment that really is a plus.
Each kit comes in cardboard packaging and we try to avoid plastic packaging as much as we possibly can!
I have also created a detailed making guided for each project and a YouTube video to guide the maker through the whole process. These can all be found over at my new blog site www.wabisabistudio.co.uk.
Wabi-Sabi studio is also the place to ask questions about the projects!
All these products are available in my brand new Etsy shop so if you would like to introduce sewing to a beginner in a fun way or start a new hobby then why not take a look!
I began my sewing journey sewing small mice out of fabric scraps, and I truly believe that sewing is a skill that everyone should possess and who knows where it would lead!
Oh and by the way, I also created a range of purse, pencil case and bag kits to match. With a range of colourful Wabi-Sabi branded children’s and adult clothing in the pipeline!
On top of all that with a little help (well a lot actually), I have finally made some progress with social media! So if you would like to – follow, join, subscribe or like then see below! Phew.
I hope to have a more time now to get back to my full size projects, but to be honest I am having so much fun with these tiny garments that I am certain to be adding many more outfits to the collection!
This very important step is sadly one that is often rushed or even missed out completely by pattern makers and sewers, there is no doubt that it takes time and skill to insert a sleeve into an armhole and deal with the ease in the sleeve head correctly.
There is preparation involved and many commercial sewing pattern guidelines do not follow the correct methods, they adopt short cuts, to be fair to them it would be difficult to explain the whole process and it would simply take too long.
Most high street clothing manufacturers remove a large quantity of the ease from the sleeve head as it makes the sewing process much easier for the machinist in the factory, at the expense of good fit. Little or no ease in the sleeve head can make the sleeve hang badly and create drag lines at the top of the arm and bicep.
In this post I am going to focus on the best way to deal with the ease in the sleeve head, if you have read my earlier posts on sleeve head ease then you will be familiar with how to increase or decrease the ease in your sleeve pattern. I am going to show you my method of sewing a sleeve into an armhole and how I ease in the extra fabric we often have at the crown.
Getting to know your sleeve and armhole
The above image shows the front and back bodice laid on top of the sleeve block. The pink arrows show that the back armhole and back sleeve up to the double notch positions match perfectly, and they should, as there is no ease in this part of the sleeve. The blue arrow shows how the point onwards from the notches on the back bodice matches the back sleeve – note how the measurement of the back bodice doesn’t quite make it to the notch at the sleeve head.
If we travel from the green arrow on the front armhole and apply the same measurement to the sleeves again we see that the front sleeve and armhole match perfectly from the underarm seam up to the single front notch. The orange arrows show the measurement, taken from the front bodice, of the remaining armhole, and applied to the sleeve, again this measurement stops short of the notch at the top of the sleeve.
The area marked in yellow is our ‘EASE’ and this ease needs to be ‘eased’ in between the back armhole notches and the front armhole notch.
How easy this step is depends very much on the fabric you are using, in my example I used a calico, with very little softness, if I had used a wool with a loose weave then I would have found compressing the fabric much easier!
I am easing in the maximum quantity of ease, just over 6 cm.
2 Rows of stitching
Make 2 rows of stitching, a narrow distance apart, they should be just inside your seam allowance.
Gather by pulling the thread ends
Use the ends of the threads to pull in the fabric and compress the ease, you are aiming for a smooth line with no pleats or tucks, you can also use steam to help compress and shrink the fabric. This may take some time, but be patient and you will manage it. I have 6.2 cm ease in this example and I have manage to ease it all in between the notches.
When you are happy with the sleeve head, it is then time to pin the sleeve into the armhole, all the notches should match perfectly.
There is a saying in sewing ‘we never want a saggy bottom’ this will help you remember that any excess you have to ease in should always be at the top!
A tailors ham is the best tool for pressing and steaming the sleeve head.
The sleeve head should roll off the armhole at the top, as all the ease you compressed is released. As I am using a stiff calico the effect is not as beautiful as it would be if I were to use a wool fabric that compressed easily.
I hope this helps you with your sleeve sewing and improves the fit and appearance of your next sleeve!
As with any basic block, whether it is one you have drafted yourself, or one you have purchased from me, you should always make a toile. This important first step allows you to assess the fit of the block and all its proportions.
My straight top block has been manipulated to remove all the darts, but still gives a good fit over the bust area.
I use this block for shirts, bomber jackets, casual tops, etc etc.
I have recently drafted a basic collar shape for this block, so for those of you that already have the block here is the free collar template. Simply download and open in Adobe Acrobat reader and print at 100% scale – there is a control square on the page and this should measure 2.5 cm x 2.5 cm (1 inch x 1 inch)
Once you have this basic collar template you can experiment with the ‘leaf edge’ of the collar and create your own collar designs – the ‘neck edge’ needs to stay the same – as it has been drafted to fit your block.
Experiment with the collar shape!
I hope this ‘free template’ save you time – I would love to see the designs you produce from this versatile basic block!
My contour fitted corset block was developed by modelling or draping, as it’s often called, directly on the mannequin. Using this technique gives a shape that fits to the curves of the body perfectly!
I use mine for developing a range of styles and also as a base layer for complicated draped designs, it gives me a secure base to be able to create some beautiful draped garments.
Each pattern piece is related directly to the shape of the body!
As you can see – instead of the normal shaping of a regular bodice, the seams are more curved – this created a shape that curves to the contours of the body and fits like a glove!
Nice curved seams!The pink line shows a contoured fit from a side view- over the bust shape – compared to a regular fit shown by the purple line
This is of course a basic block, which means that it has no seam allowance added . The style can be sewn up as it is, with no changes to the block. Just add seam allowance to each seam you intend to sew – there’s no need to add seam allowance to the center front as this is placed on a fold line when cutting in fabric (if you keep to the basic design). It’s also a good idea to add a generous quantity of seam allowance around the pattern piece (1.5 cm). This will allow you to fit the garment to the wearer and make adjustments for individual figure types.
Cut out and sew each vertical seam first in the order shown above – Pin to a body first to see the shape if you need to.How the corset looks when sewn up with no adaptation – the white dotted lines show the center front panel which is cut on the fold of the fabric.
You can use this basic shape as it is or as a base to create your own designs – here are some of the designs that you could make from this basic shape!
Alter the shaping of the center front panel for a different look! Use as a base for lingerie development!Use as a base to enable you to create draped styles.Use with a comfort stretch fabric and add to a skirt to form a dress!Be as creative as you can be!
I hope this short post gives you some inspiration on what you can do with this basic waisted corset shape – it’s always a good idea to cut out the basic pieces in a trial fabric, for example a calico. You can then fit the shapes to a dress stand, or a willing model, to get an idea of the shape.
Why not draw on the shape to change the design, pin draped sections on top, I would love to see what you can do!
As always, if you have any questions then please ask – the basic contoured corset block is available as a PDF instant download and also as a physical printed pattern sheet. (Note the printed pattern sheet has seam allowance added for you)
I have been making these face masks for family and friends, so thought I would share the pattern here on my blog – it’s totally free – you can make as many as you like, all I ask is that you don’t make money from them – I feel in times like this we should help others and not try to profit.
I made the first prototype and then adjusted the pattern to allow more space at the front for breathing.
This is my second prototype!
3D mask! Modeled by my partner Steve! (reluctantly)
Here is the pattern – simply open it as a PDF in Adobe Reader and print – let me know if you need any help – see below for the making guide.
You will need a piece of cotton fabric 20 cm x 60 cm to cut 2 layers
The mask can also be made of terry towelling and in that case you can cut 1 layer of fabric.
Creating the 3D shape.
Sew a small dart at the top – for the nose. Now sew a dart seam at the base for the chin shaping. Press the seams – you will need to clip in at the chin shaping to allow you to press the seam open.
Have the darts going in different directions – to avoid bulk!
I pressed my nose darts in different directions, one to the left and one to the right – to avoid too much bulk at the nose.
Place the layers together – right sides out.
Now place the 2 layers together with the right sides of the fabric facing outwards and use a straight stitch to hold the 2 layers together
Pin the pleats in position – in the direction shown on the pattern piece and sew with a straight stitch to secure. You can do the previous 2 steps all in one go if you are an experienced sewer!
– or see my YouTube video on applying FOE if you need any help with this.
Watch if you need to – leave a comment and a thumbs up!
Bind the edges of the mask first – you have already secured the pleats in position with a holding stitch so this should be easier.
I used a zig zag stitch to apply my elastic binding.
Now continue to apply binding to the top and bottom of the mask. I used elastic binding which allowed me to pull a little over the nose and under the chin to make the mask a snugger fit.
leave ends as ties – mine are 20 cm long – you may want them a little longer if you are using cotton bias binding.
All done!
As always I am happy to answer any questions, just leave a comment below.
Here is part 2 of my baby body suit video series – made to support the baby onesie basic block sheet. The video is also useful for those who want to know how to sew a baby body suit – or in fact an adult one. The techniques demonstrated in this video are perfect for all jersey projects. And I get to use my new popper machine!
The popper machine I use in the video can be found at:
