If you have purchased one of my basic blocks sheets, or if you have drafted and graded a set of basic blocks yourself, you will find the following guidelines useful.
My ready printed and graded blocks come with no seam allowance added – the exception to this may be some of my menswear blocks that traditionally have 1cm (3/8″) seam allowance included – and this will be clearly marked on the sheet. You should always trace the basic block you need from the master copy. Keeping the master copy safe is essential for 2 reasons, the first is that you can use it again and again, the second it that you can refer to it if things don’t match and check you have indeed traced the correct size and shape.
The very first thing any pattern cutter should do with a new basic block is to make a ‘toile’ – a toile is simply the technical term for a basic block sewn up in its very basic form – there are additional guidelines to follow here, so let’s take a look.
As we have already established, a toile is a prototype or a trial garment. Toiles are normally made up in calico for woven garments and a knit, that is most similar to the finished garments, for knit blocks. Toiles are also referred to as muslins in the USA.
Calico is a popular choice for woven toiles as it comes in different weights and is light in colour. This makes it easy to see the changes that need to be made and the toile can also be drawn on to note the changes required. It’s worth noting that pattern cutters make several toiles to test their patterns to perfect them, so this is very normal practice in the fashion industry.
Toiles do not need to be finished garments, in fact to speed up the process there is no need to place any seam allowance on hems. Placing seam allowance on the neckline of a toile is the wrong thing to do. This is because the seam allowance will prevent you from seeing where the neckline actually sits, and the seam allowance may also distort the neckline. Adding hem allowance to a garment also prevents you from seeing where the hem will sit when finished.
Sampling complex design details such as unusual pockets and intricate design details can be practiced as small samples to save time and fabric. I must admit that very often I do make ‘wearable’ toiles, where I finish off the toile to the standard of a wearable garment.
It is however normally not necessary to complete a toile to a finished garment stage.
As a pattern cutter, it is essential to view a toile before any pattern development takes place. A toile is simply a starting point for you design, whether you are making a simple change like adding a patch pocket or drastic changes and developing an entirely new style, knowing your starting point is essential. Once you have your toile prepared you can then make any fit adjustments before making style changes. The toile can then be kept with the basic block for quick reference every time you need to use it.
If you would like to learn more about professional pattern design then why not join me for a course – email me at onitnotinit@mail.com or take a look at my blog page for course details.
Happy sewing & pattern making!
Nicola
