Circular Skirts – Making the most of your pattern
Circular skirts are wonderful garments, quite simple in one way, but quite complex in others. The simplicity of the final garment and its wonderful folds of fullness at the hem disguise the mathematical calculations of Pi and the complexities of dealing with the varying behaviours of the fabric grain.
The garment utilises all the advantages and disadvantages of the warp, weft and bias grain, each fabric you choose will give you a different silhouette and form different folds.
Whether you have drafted your own circular skirt pattern, or whether you have one of my patterns sheets, the information below will help you understand and make the most of your skirt.
A PDF instant download of my full circle skirt and a fully illustrated sew along can be found here:
Physical Full Circle Skirt Block Sheet Size ( There is also an option for a half circle version in this listing)
I also offer a bespoke made to measure circle skirt service if you would like a skirt pattern made to your own waist measurement for just ten pounds per draft! The skirt will be e-mailed to you as a PDF file for you to print at home.
GRAIN LINE EXPLANATION:
Due to the nature of a circular skirt pattern piece, the pattern section encompasses all the grains within the fabric, that is the straight grain, the cross grain and the bias grain.
The three alternative grainlines illustrated below will each give the skirt a different appearance in terms of where the folds of fullness appear.
- GRAINLINE 1 – has two major points of fullness, one to the side of
the center front and one at the side seam in each quarter section. - GRAINLINE 2- one main area of fullness between center front and
side seam in each quarter section - GRAINLINE 3-has three points of fullness, at the front, the middle
and the side in each quarter section.
I hope this has helped you understand and also make the most of your circular skirt!
Nicola x
Please feel free to ask me any questions!
13 Comments
Feel Free to ask me any questions you may have
I am ordering some silk tartan from Scotland to make a circle skirt but I’m having difficulty calculating how much I should order. I’ve read your posts on the subject and hope that perhaps you can help?
I am 5’3″. Natural waist 32″, hips 39″.
I would like an approximately 18-19″ circle skirt with pockets and a wide waistband. I can’t decide if I want full or 3/4 so it would be nice to know about both.
The fabric is (oddly) 48″ wide.
At 45 pounds per meter, I would prefer not to overbuy.
Any assistance you can provide would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks!
CiCi
Hi Cici, Have you completed the pattern yet, as this is a good first step. I take my pattern pieces and lay them on the table and try all the different options for pattern placement. I then measure the quantity I need. You may find it more cost effective to have 2 side seams on your full circle skirt. It is also not really about your waist and hips, its all about the length and this will be your determining factor. I hope this helps, and if you need any more help then please let me know. Nic x
I won’t be sewing it myself so I don’t have a pattern. Based on the various “calculators” I have found online it appears that my 48″ wide fabric will be fine for a 19″ skirt but I’m still not sure how much to fabric to order lengthwise? Can you help me determine that?
Hi, I am making a full length half circle skirt, cut in 4 sections as I need a center back zip, so I will have seams at center front, centre back and on each side.
I like the look of the flares that grainline 3 give. Would this work ok? How do I go about laying my pattern pieces on fabric that is 58” wide. Do I cut them all the same way or do I cut 2 pieces right side up and 2 wrong side up.
I am using satin fabric.
Thank you
Hi Caroline, If you have the space I would certainly cut them all flat, right sides up and flip them over for the pair, be careful to match the grains as if you have different grainlines meeting at CF and CB this will look very bad! I personally would lay my fabric out and make 4 pattern pieces and play around with them instead of flipping them over for the pair. I wish you luck as it’s quite a tast to cut this out and it may take more fabric than you think.
Let me know how you get on, Nicola
I see patterns that say cut on the grain line and cut on bias. How does this affect the shape of the skirt? Which is the better option for circle or half circle skirts, on the grain line or on the bias?
Hey!
I’m unsure which grainline is which in your sketches. Could you maybe clarify according to which grainline you cut each of numbers 1 to 3?
Hi, Do you have my circular skirt block? As the grainlines I refer to are on there.
Kindest regards,
Nicola
Hi
what is the position of grainline 3 in relation to the center front and side seam?
it seems closer to the side seam but exactly how close to it? Is there a formula or ratio for this?
Hi, I place my grain lines by modelling (draping) so they are dictated by how the fabric looks best in relation to that grain. There is always room for adaptation as each fabric will behave differntly so it is by no means an exact science. Feel free to experiment and have fun!
Hi
because my fabric is not wide enough i have to cut my circle skirt in panels…I am using grainline 3.
I need to cut add a seam at the princes line (there is a slit here)
which grain would I follow for the panels..
Hi, It all depends on your design and it’s difficult for me to say when I can’t see it, however if you have a seam at the waist line then I would always keep the center front (and back) of a bodice on the straight grain. If the bodice panels are attached to your skirt then the grain will be dictated to you by either the bodice placement or the skirt placement. Hope this helps.