The Wrap Over Top – Pattern Development

Pinned on the dress stand in paper.

I love a wrap over top style. This is something you can do with your basic bodice block or you can use this technique and apply it to a pattern you already have.

As this is an a-symmetrical style – you will need to work on a whole front pattern piece. Mirror your basic shape at the center front.

Mirror your pattern piece at the center front – to make a whole front.

It’s always best to move darts out of the way when you are planning a style line – cut along the lines with the little scissors symbols and fold out the darts with the little arrows! Of course if the shape you have doesn’t have darts then you can miss out this step.

See my videos on moving darts to different locations if you want to know more about moving darts.

A clear route to planning the neckline

Now plan the new neckline shaping…

Plan the new neckline from the shoulder – make sure it isn’t too narrow or it may slip off in wear – continue across the center front. You will need a little notch at the center front for fitting. Dip under the bust – making sure you avoid the fullness of the bust shape. Stop at the side seam if you want to or you can add a tie extension here that wraps around the body secures the garment.

Detach the part you don’t need.

Now cut along the neckline and remove the part you don’t need. Now plan the drape lines as shown.

Fold out the last dart.

Cut along the drape lines and fold out the remaining dart and watch the drape lines open up!

Now you can trace around the whole pattern shape. Cut a left and a right side. The little notch you placed at the center front now becomes important – as this is where the left and the right pattern piece will meet at the center front.

Match the center front notches.

Why not give this technique a try – the same method can be used to create a wrap over skirt!

See you soon for more pattern cutting and sewing techniques.

Nicola x

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