Understanding a Dress Making Pattern – Part 1 – The Pattern Envelope

The front of a pattern envelope.

I am frequently asked to explain to both experienced and novice dressmakers how to read and understand all the information printed on a sewing pattern envelope.

If you want to make your own clothing, then the ability to understand and locate the information you need is essential.

In part 1 of this two-part series we will look at the information printed on the outside of a pattern envelope.

In part 2 we will take a more detailed look at all the information you should expect to see on the back and inside, plus look at how to understand all the symbols on a pattern piece.

Hopefully you will then have the confidence to go out and purchase a pattern and begin to make your own clothes!

Such a lot of Information in a small space!

The pattern envelope itself, in such a small amount of space, gives you a huge amount of information. Importantly a picture or illustration of the garment and the quantity of fabric you will need to purchase and a guide to notions – every hobby has its own language so lets take a closer look!

The front of the pattern envelope will show you what size range and figure type the pattern is aimed at. Be careful if you are buying a vintage pattern or a pattern from another country as the sizing will not be accurate. Some patterns come in a wide range of sizes, some in two or three and some in just one, so look carefully. A vintage pattern size will come up very small in comparison to today’s sizes, so select a pattern that takes this into account. If you are buying an American pattern online then don’t forget that American sizing is different to UK sizing, each American size is 2 sizes down from a UK size, so for example a size 14 UK is a size 10 USA.

Take note – different countries have different sizing!

A very important point to note – is the pattern designed for a woven or a knit fabric? You need to know this in order to select the correct fabric. Making a knit pattern in woven fabric will not work as woven fabric has no stretch at all and your garment will end up much too small. Making a woven pattern in knit is also a mistake as knit fabric stretches and the garment will end up much too big for you. Also, a woven pattern will have design details that are just not suitable for knit fabrics.

The difficulty level of a pattern is usually illustrated and will let you know if the pattern is for a beginner or an advanced sewer.

New to dressmaking? Select an easy pattern.

The pattern company name and the style name or number will also be indicated on the envelope, very handy in today’s digital age as you can search and see how other sewers have tackled the making process and gather some great advice! There are a number of pattern review sites now, so you are quite likely to find a popular pattern from a large pattern company has lots of reviews online.

Most patterns have a name!

The front of the pattern envelope will also have views of the garment, in the form of illustrations or technical sketches and the different style options available. Sometimes patterns include 2 or three different style options for you to choose from.

Technical Sketch.

The envelope back becomes a little more technical, and here you will find all the additional information you need in order to purchase fabric and trimmings – otherwise known as ‘notions’. You will certainly need your glasses for the back of the envelope as there is so much information crammed into a very small space!

Join me for part 2 when we will take a closer look at the pattern envelope back and some common pattern markings.

Any questions – feel free to ask.

Nicola x

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