New pattern cutters have the advantage of adopting good working practices right from the start. If you can adapt to follow this process your work flow will be smooth and you will save time.
- Trace the relevant block onto your pattern paper – use plain white tracing paper or spot and cross paper Follow the links for a supplier that will post starter pattern cutting paper packs all over the world !
- Transfer all grain lines and construction lines such as hip line, dart lines, notches etc.
- Make any changes to the shape of the basic block first, for example adding more flare or moving darts. More paper can always be taped on to extend the first draft.
- Plan any new seam lines on the draft. Take care not to plan seam lines unevenly over darts. You can move darts to a temporary position if they are in the way, or measure carefully across the dart as shown in the images below.
- Mark each pattern section on the draft with a grain line, add balance marks and notches and any special instructions.
- Plan and draft button stands, now draft any off parts such as collars and cuffs.
- Plan facing lines, facings are best produced from the final pattern sections but they can be planned now.
- Trace each pattern piece off the main draft- never cut the main draft up!
- Add seam allowance – only when you are certain you have completed your pattern, adding seam allowance is the last thing you do. See my post on suggested seam allowance quantities.
- Label the pattern, see my post on labelling your pattern.
- Finally cut out your first pattern – you are ready to test your pattern with a toile.
If you plan across without measuring, the pattern piece you trace off will not be correct, as illustrated below. This is a common mistake people make and it results in an ill fitting pattern.
Planning across a dart results in a jagged pattern piece!
I hope this helps.
Happy pattern drafting,
Nicola
