Current Projects

Working in Half Scale

No Comments
Half Scale Blocks

When I taught pattern cutting at degree level I always preferred to teach in full scale, as I believe it helps the student to get a second sense for proportion, fit and develop good cutting lines.

One year I decided to do a quick 15 minute session for those students that arrived early to class, in that session we used a half scale mannequin and very quickly covered a creative pattern cutting technique! I had fantastic feedback and my students told me they learnt a great deal from those sessions!

Today I have had a little fun preparing my blocks in half scale and sewing up a half scale toile! I plan to use these in my upcoming video tutorials.. so watch this space!

Super Cute Half Scale Bodice!

Back Bodice – Half Scale Version.

I must admit, I had to have a break after inserting one sleeve! It was quite stressful, but I know my half scale blocks fit my half scale stand and now I can work with them confidently!

Happy Pattern Drafting!

Nicola x

Continue Reading

Current Projects

Pattern Cutting Help…

1 Comment

I often offer help to my subscribers here on my blog, so if you have any questions about techniques or styles you would like help with then just let me know!

How to create this pattern…

One of my subscribers has asked for help in deciding the best method to create the shape at the front of this dress.

The best way to create this shape is by modelling directly onto the dress stand, that is, if you are creating this shape from scratch to your own design. Simply take your fabric and apply it to the dress stand and be as creative as you like. However there is another method you can use.

If you would like to create a shape similar to this one using a flat pattern cutting technique the the following method will help you.

This is the shape created from following the silhouette of the top half

I would create this shape in two sections and seam at the waist…

The shape below the waist…
The shape created in paper…

I hope this helps you create some interesting shapes!

Happy pattern making,

Nicola

x

Continue Reading

Beginners Pattern Drafting Info, General Info, Pattern Cutting Techniques

Pattern Help – Recreating a Vintage Dress Pattern

2 Comments

I have had a question from one of my readers regarding a dress style.

The best way to develop a dress is by using a dress block, you would think that you could just place a skirt and a bodice together and that would be it – unfortunately its not as simple as that. There are a few adjustments you need to make to join a skirt to a bodice to get a good fit, and you need a little pattern cutting knowledge for that. I plan to do a post on just the subject very soon.

But for now, lets suppose you are in a rush and you have a bodice block and a skirt block, my best advice would be to first of all follow my post on lengthening the bodice below the hip line and that will give you a basic dress block, suitable for some, but not all styles.

Lets take the example above, this is the style my reader wants and she only has a bodice block, but now she has followed the blog post and created a basic dress from the bodice.

 

 

The style lines can be followed through to the back dress and an identical quantity of fullness should be added to the back skirt – remember to cut the skirt on the bias grain with a seam at the center front.

I hope this helps and if anyone else has any pattern cutting puzzles then please let me know.

Happy pattern making

Nicola x

Continue Reading