Welcome to part two of this 2 part series. If you missed part one you can always catch it on my blog page! In part one we looked at the front of a pattern envelope. Now let’s take a look at the back of the envelope in more detail. We will also look at some common pattern markings so when you pick up a dress making pattern your will feel much more at ease.
The envelope back becomes a little more technical, and here you will find all the additional information you need in order to purchase fabric and trimmings – otherwise known as ‘notions’. You will certainly need your glasses for the back of the envelope as there is so much information crammed into a very small space!
The back of the pattern may show you the back views of the garment, if they did not appear on the front of the envelope.
The envelope will tell you how many Pattern Pieces are required for each style variation in the envelope. The most complex pattern I have ever come across was by Issey Miyake, it only had 1 pattern piece, but it was more like origami than a dress making pattern!
One of the most important pieces of information you will find on the back of your pattern envelope are the Style Details -for example the description may state that ‘the trouser front has a fly front opening’ – you may be put off the pattern at this point! Here you will also find a description of the garment, including an indication of the fit. This information is often the deciding factor when buying a pattern, as you can quickly decide if the pattern is the right one for you.
You will also be provided with fabric types suitable for the design, it’s best to stick to the suggested fabric when you first try a style, you are more likely to make a success of the project. Next time you make the pattern you can begin to experiment with different fabrics to create a different look.
Most pattern envelopes give you a very brief size chart, this may be the bust, waist, or hip that each pattern size is intended to fit. This is one part of the process that you should take a little time over. Selecting the wrong size pattern that will not fit your actual body measurements can waste so much time and effort. Always have a tape measure to hand and measure yourself. Just because you usually take a size 12 on the high street does not mean that a size 12 garment, made from a pattern, will fit you.
Notions: here you will see how many buttons to buy, how long your zip needs to be etc. Notions are a complete list of all the extra trimmings you need to buy in order to make your garment. It is always a good idea to buy your sewing thread at the same time as you buy your fabric as you want a good colour match. Tip – If you can’t quite get the right shade – better lighter than darker!
The fabric quantity guide: this lets you know exactly how much fabric, lining and interfacing fabric you need to buy. These guides are usually quite generous so if you are on a particularly tight budget lay out your pattern pieces at home to see how much less fabric you can get away with. Or you can take your cut out pattern pieces to the fabric shop and lay them out – this can save you a lot of money!
Inside the pattern envelope.
A lay plan is the common term for the guide to putting your pattern pieces on the fabric, it’s worth taking the time to get this part right. You must place the pattern pieces on the fabric exactly as described. Fabric has what’s known as a grain and placing the fabric on the wrong grain will result in a garment that behaves differently to the designer’s intentions.
I wonder if you have ever worn a pair of jeans or leggings where the inside leg seam wraps to the front leg and no matter how much you pull, it will not go back. This happens when a trouser pattern is cut ‘off grain’. This means that the trouser pattern was not placed on the fabric correctly! It’s a common fault with cheap garments when the manufacturer wants to save money. Let’s look at how pattern pieces should be placed on fabric.
Knowing the selvedge of a fabric piece is the key to placing your pattern pieces correctly – often described as the finished edge of the fabric – here is a close up image to help you next time you visit a fabric shop. Its particularly important if you are buying remnant or off cut pieces of fabric.
You will also find detailed making instructions inside the pattern envelope; the larger pattern companies produce detailed illustrations and a brief description of the sewing process. Smaller independent pattern companies often photograph the garment being made in stages and go into a lot more detail. Smaller pattern companies also produce guides to their patterns on YouTube! (see my bandeau top video on my YouTube channel)
Finally let’s look at some of the most common pattern markings. At first glance this can be a little daunting because there are so many lines and markings. Your making instructions will have a key and a description of each marking.
As I have already mentioned the most important pattern markings are the grain lines, the fold line – also illustrated above is also very important. The fold line indicates that you must place your pattern on the fold of the fabric to create a whole mirrored piece. Notches are placed on the pattern to enable you to match up the fabric sections as you are sewing them. This is a part of the process that many dress makers forget, however, they are essential. So always make sure you transfer all pattern markings to the fabric. Gone are the days of tailors’ chalk, modern dress makers use dissolvable pens to mark their patterns!
I could go on forever as this is a huge topic and sewing using your first pattern will be a huge learning curve, but if you have any questions at all I am always happy to answer them!
Or If you have a pattern envelope that you don’t understand take a picture and let me take a look for you.
See you soon for a new sewing project!
Nicola x
