Lingerie Series – follow me at the Sewing Directory…

Developing a basic block from your own body measurements.

Part 2 of my 3 part series devoted to making your own lingerie is about to be released at the sewing directory towards the end of this month. If you missed part 1 then you can find it by following the link below

https://www.thesewingdirectory.co.uk/how-to-sew-lingerie-part-one/

Lots of great content!

Part 1 covered drafting your panties basic block – to your own body measurements. In Part 2 I will cover how to sew your toile and test the fit.

If you didn’t get a chance to draft the panties block – don’t worry – I have drafted the block in a range of sizes for you – size 8 UK (4 USA) to size 22 UK ( 18 USA). Simply download and print on A3 paper (see my guide to printing as a poster if you only have an A4 printer)

So feel free to pick up at part 2 and join me again for part 3 where we will look at how to develop this basic knicker shape into a range of different styles.

See you over at The Sewing Directory – for many more articles.

Nicola x

Continue Reading

Part 2 – Understanding a dress making pattern

Such a lot of information in a very small space!

Welcome to part two of this 2 part series. If you missed part one you can always catch it on my blog page! In part one we looked at the front of a pattern envelope. Now let’s take a look at the back of the envelope in more detail. We will also look at some common pattern markings so when you pick up a dress making pattern your will feel much more at ease.

The envelope back becomes a little more technical, and here you will find all the additional information you need in order to purchase fabric and trimmings – otherwise known as ‘notions’. You will certainly need your glasses for the back of the envelope as there is so much information crammed into a very small space!

The back of the pattern may show you the back views of the garment, if they did not appear on the front of the envelope.

The envelope will tell you how many Pattern Pieces are required for each style variation in the envelope. The most complex pattern I have ever come across was by Issey Miyake, it only had 1 pattern piece, but it was more like origami than a dress making pattern!

One of the most important pieces of information you will find on the back of your pattern envelope are the Style Details -for example the description may state that ‘the trouser front has a fly front opening’ – you may be put off the pattern at this point! Here you will also find a description of the garment, including an indication of the fit. This information is often the deciding factor when buying a pattern, as you can quickly decide if the pattern is the right one for you.

You will also be provided with fabric types suitable for the design, it’s best to stick to the suggested fabric when you first try a style, you are more likely to make a success of the project. Next time you make the pattern you can begin to experiment with different fabrics to create a different look.

Most pattern envelopes give you a very brief size chart, this may be the bust, waist, or hip that each pattern size is intended to fit. This is one part of the process that you should take a little time over. Selecting the wrong size pattern that will not fit your actual body measurements can waste so much time and effort. Always have a tape measure to hand and measure yourself. Just because you usually take a size 12 on the high street does not mean that a size 12 garment, made from a pattern, will fit you.

Notions: here you will see how many buttons to buy, how long your zip needs to be etc. Notions are a complete list of all the extra trimmings you need to buy in order to make your garment. It is always a good idea to buy your sewing thread at the same time as you buy your fabric as you want a good colour match. Tip – If you can’t quite get the right shade – better lighter than darker!

The fabric quantity guide: this lets you know exactly how much fabric, lining and interfacing fabric you need to buy. These guides are usually quite generous so if you are on a particularly tight budget lay out your pattern pieces at home to see how much less fabric you can get away with. Or you can take your cut out pattern pieces to the fabric shop and lay them out – this can save you a lot of money!

Inside the pattern envelope.

A lay plan is the common term for the guide to putting your pattern pieces on the fabric, it’s worth taking the time to get this part right. You must place the pattern pieces on the fabric exactly as described. Fabric has what’s known as a grain and placing the fabric on the wrong grain will result in a garment that behaves differently to the designer’s intentions.

I wonder if you have ever worn a pair of jeans or leggings where the inside leg seam wraps to the front leg and no matter how much you pull, it will not go back. This happens when a trouser pattern is cut ‘off grain’. This means that the trouser pattern was not placed on the fabric correctly! It’s a common fault with cheap garments when the manufacturer wants to save money. Let’s look at how pattern pieces should be placed on fabric.

Take your time placing your pattern pieces on the fabric.

Knowing the selvedge of a fabric piece is the key to placing your pattern pieces correctly – often described as the finished edge of the fabric – here is a close up image to help you next time you visit a fabric shop. Its particularly important if you are buying remnant or off cut pieces of fabric.

Close up of the selvedge.

You will also find detailed making instructions inside the pattern envelope; the larger pattern companies produce detailed illustrations and a brief description of the sewing process. Smaller independent pattern companies often photograph the garment being made in stages and go into a lot more detail. Smaller pattern companies also produce guides to their patterns on YouTube! (see my bandeau top video on my YouTube channel)

Finally let’s look at some of the most common pattern markings. At first glance this can be a little daunting because there are so many lines and markings. Your making instructions will have a key and a description of each marking.

As I have already mentioned the most important pattern markings are the grain lines, the fold line – also illustrated above is also very important. The fold line indicates that you must place your pattern on the fold of the fabric to create a whole mirrored piece. Notches are placed on the pattern to enable you to match up the fabric sections as you are sewing them. This is a part of the process that many dress makers forget, however, they are essential. So always make sure you transfer all pattern markings to the fabric. Gone are the days of tailors’ chalk, modern dress makers use dissolvable pens to mark their patterns!

Notches are important!

I could go on forever as this is a huge topic and sewing using your first pattern will be a huge learning curve, but if you have any questions at all I am always happy to answer them!

Or If you have a pattern envelope that you don’t understand take a picture and let me take a look for you.

See you soon for a new sewing project!

Nicola x

Continue Reading

Modeliste Creative – New Studio & New Logo!

New logo….New Studio!

I have just spent 3 days painting and organising my new studio, so finally I have a much larger space to make my video tutorials and a more inspiring space to run my upcoming pattern cutting course in May!

Not finished yet!

My downstairs studio was getting a little cramped, as I have a bit of an obsession with mannequins! Now all my mannequins and myself have more space to move around and be creative!

It’s important to have a range of sizes!
Plus my male mannequins have a space of their own!
They have more space!
Plus a better view!

Another upside is that I have a better view of the lake, garden, swim spa and hot tub!

If you would like to come and join me for a sewing or pattern cutting course, then contact me by email at:

onitnotinit@mail.com and I will send you the details.

Happy sewing and pattern cutting,

Nicola

Continue Reading

My Latest Video – Part 1 is now available!

Subscribe to be automatically notified when part 2 – 6 are released!

It’s hard work finding the time to make videos!

Finally I have a series of videos all related to moving the darts around the bodice block. I am always surprised when I have a message from a customer that tells me that the position of the dart, on the block they have just purchased from me, is not quite in the right position for them. I then show them how to move a dart, and a whole world opens up!

Its very unlikely that a designer would want to keep the bodice darts in the same position they are on the basic block, for every style they produce. This useful series of videos will show you the many options you have for dart positions. In part 1 we look at moving the waist dart into the shoulder.

Part 1 – find all your handouts for this mini course in the subscribers only area!

There are 6 parts to this first series which covers the slashing method of dart manipulation and you can download all your class materials in the members only area. You will need to subscribe to gain access to this area, once you are subscribed – check your spam folder if you cant find the e-mail – you will be sent the secret members password – please let me know if you need any help with this.

Click to watch and don’t forget to get your class materials and free half scale blocks and templates! Please give me a thumbs up and a comment!
click to watch
Half scale size 12 Modeliste Creative Blocks – for my full scale range see below for a link to my Etsy Shop
Click here to see my Modeliste Creative colour bodice block / sloper in my Etsy Shop

Thanks for watching and if you have any questions at all then, as always, please get in touch!

Nicola X

Continue Reading

Monthly Project… The 8 Paneled Skirt

For those of you that read my monthly magazine article in the French Publication DSM, here is a more detailed run through of the latest project. For everyone else, why not give this a try!

Part 1 – Designing and Making Your Bespoke Flared Skirt

One Panel Creates A Skirt!

Have you ever wanted to make something that fits you perfectly? Here is your chance to learn how to create the pattern for this versatile 8 panel skirt, it is as simple as making 1 panel and cutting it out 8 times in fabric!

In part 2 of this project I will cover the skills you need to sew the skirt.

Step 1 – Fill in your measurements on the handy chart below.

For this example I have inserted the average measurements for a size 12 in PINK for you to follow, you will of course have to substitute your own measurements for the pink ones!

The measurements in pink are an example set – insert your own.

Measure your waist and add some extra for movement, it you want a fitted skirt add approximately 2 cm extra. If you want a looser skirt you can add a little more. If you want to use a knitted fabric no extra above your actual body measurement is needed. Now divide this total by 8 as illustrated above.

Do the same for your top hip, this lies at 10 cm below your waist and the same for your hip which lies at 21 cm below your waist line. Decide on the skirt length you would like – we now have all the measurements we need for you to make your pattern!

Step 2 – draw a vertical line on a large sheet of paper, the line needs to be slightly longer than the skirt length you have chosen. At the top of the line draw a horizontal line to represent the waist – each side of this line you can place the measurement you calculated for your waist (4.6 for my example placed equally each side of the centre). Ten centimeters below the waist level do the same for the top hip and again for the full hip. You can square down from the hip until you hit the line extended out for the length of skirt. Make the skirt long for an elegant evening version, or shorter for a flouncy summer skirt!

Step 3 – Now to add some flare! Decide where you would like the flare to ‘flare’ from. This can be as high up as the hip if you want. Place a horizontal line at this level to mark the flare line. Cut up the centre of the panel and to the side of the flare line and spread the pieces as illustrated below. You can open then as much or as little as you like, so long as they are opened equally each side.

Cut and Spread Equally

Step 4 – place the pieces on a new sheet of paper and trace the shape you have created. The waist can be shaped gently by extending the waist line up by 0.5 cm each side and gently curving at the centre.

Gently shape the waist…

Step 5 – all you need to do now is add some seam allowance and your main pattern piece is complete!

Step 6 – the waist can be finished in several ways, the simplest way is to cut an exact copy of the top of the skirt at a depth of 6 cm from the waist line, this will be your facing panel and you will also cut the pattern piece 8 times in fabric.

You now have your pattern – in part 2 I will show you how to sew this lovely skirt and then we can take a look at how to develop the skirt for a knit fabric with an elasticated waist!

Such a versatile style!

See you next month for part 2 – sewing the paneled skirt.

Nicola x

Continue Reading

My Latest Blocks… Super Stretch!

I have been working on my latest block release for a long long time, trying hard to get a balance between super super body con fit and a dress that moves correctly in wear and finally I have it!

I also took the time to regrade and re-vamp the blocks sheet and add in some extra features. As I update my blocks from now on I am adding 1/4 scale versions of each block, perfect for practice and ideal for experimenting before you commit to drafting in full scale. I often work in 1/4 or half scale to develop complex patterns.

Here is a preview of my latest block!

You can find the block in my Etsy Store –https://www.etsy.com/uk/DesignCutAndWear/listing/678251900/super-stretch-dress-block-sizes-xxs-to?utm_source=Copy&utm_medium=ListingManager&utm_campaign=Share&utm_term=so.lmsm&share_time=1553266872656

See you soon with more exciting blocks!

Nicola x

Continue Reading

Waistbands – Let’s take a look.

I regularly receive questions about my blocks and one recent question has spurred me into creating this post, as I imagine, if one person asks then others also want to know.

The question was – do I supply waistband patterns with my blocks, and the simple answer is no, I don’t. However I am happy to show you how to construct a waistband here on my blog!

There are several different types of waistband and I thought I would start out by looking at the straight waistband, of course you can also have a shaped or curved waistband, a high waisted waistband, a low waisted waistband or even a facing if you don’t want a waistband.

There are a number of ways to finish a waistline, the same theory applies to both skirts and trousers.

Let’s look at the most common type of waistband – the straight waistband.

 

A straight waistband is usually constructed slightly smaller than the skirt pattern measurement (as the main skirt has a quantity of ease included) so that it fits the body better. To complicate things slightly the waistband also needs some ease, but not as much as the skirt waist.

The maximum depth of a straight waistband, before you should consider using a different pattern cutting method to the one shown below is 5 cm. Waistbands deeper than this will need to be shaped to fit the body contours and we will look at the method for drafting a deeper waistband later.

Drafting Your Straight Waistband

It’s as simple as constructing a rectangle, however notches are essential!

You will need to decide on the finished width you require, let’s say 5 cm and multiply this by 2 and then add on 2 lots of seam allowance. You may be happy with 1.5 cm seam allowance, but 1 cm is more suitable.

Here comes the slightly more complex part –

You will also need to calculate the length you require, this will be your (BODY) waist measurement and some ease allowance so that you can sit, move and breath in the skirt, very important! The quantity of ease you choose to add to the waistband, can be less than the ease you have in the waistline of the skirt pattern or block. So let’s take a look at an example –

If skirt pattern / block waistline has 5 cm ease at the waist line, then you may decide to add 3 cm ease to the waistband, and therefore you will be easing 2 cm of the skirt waist into the waistband.

On top of this you will also need to add some extra for a button stand and 2 sets of seam allowance.

If the width of your skirt back and front is the same at the hip level, which it will be on some blocks or patterns, but not on others, then the placement of the notches is more straightforward. If the the skirts have been drafted with a displaced side seam then the placement of the notches is slightly more complicated. As the ease needs to be distributed around the skirt block, to be perfectly accurate.

Lets look at the basic rectangle first

Step one

Construct a rectangle twice the finished width you require. The length will be the waist measurement plus a couple of centimetres ease – please note that the ease you add to the waistband is up to you, if you have a comfort stretch fabric such as a stretch denim you may want to add very little ease if you want a snug fit, older wearers may like more ease and personal preference and target market have a lot to do with this.

The only thing you need to ensure is that you are aware of the ease in the actual skirt waist, and either keep this the same as the waistband (this is simpler) or have a little less ease in the waistband so that the main skirt eases to the waist band (for a much better fit). The ease will need to be focused either side of the dart locations, or if there are no darts, then ease the extra in where the darts would have been placed.

 

Add some extra for a button stand to the left side of the pattern piece as it is shown, and then proceed to add seam allowance around the whole waistband. (1 cm is perfect)

Now the important part – the notches – If you have the zip opening at the CB (Center Back) then the left and right of the rectangle are both CB – the very center of the dashed rectangle is the CF (Center Front) and each quarter of the rectangle can be marked as shown, the quarter either side of the CF is the SS (Side Seam) – that is if the skirt is the same width at the hips for the front and the back. If this is the case for you then place notches at each quarter of the dashed rectangle and you have completed the waistband.

Place notches also at the button stand and also at the horizontal fold line.

If your skirt pattern or block has a displaced SS then the notches will have to be located differently. This can be done by measurement. You will need to know the amount of ease you have to ease into the waistband. For example, lets say we have a skirt that has 2 cm to ease into the WB. This means that per 1/4 of the skirt we need to ease in 1/2 a cm.

Start by placing a notch at the CB positions and the CF positions. Now measure the skirt waist between the CF and the side seam on the pattern or block, and reduce this measurement by 0.5cm – this will be the position of the notch on the waistband itself.

Apply this measurement either side of the CF and you have an accurately placed SS notch – to check that all your measurements are correct, you can check that back section of the waistband fits to the back skirt – but also is 0.5 cm smaller each side.

Having explained all that, maybe it wasn’t as simple as I first thought!

As always, if you have any questions at all then please ask.

Nicola

 

 

 

Continue Reading

The Story Of How Our Pattern Blocks Are Created.

 

All my blocks are created either from scratch, or they are blocks that I have developed throughout my career, they are all tried and tested.

We use the most up to date size charts that we can and all our latest blocks have centimetres and inches with both UK and USA sizing and the EU equivalents too!

I revisit my tried and tested blocks constantly to review the sizing, ladies waists have become larger, so that’s a measurement we always keep our eye on.

We start with a set of basic measurements and a sheet of pattern paper, from there our years of practice allow us to draft the block in a size 12 or sometimes a size 14 to begin with.

 

Once I am satisfied with the draft, I then make a sample and fit this to my concept stand, made by Kennett & Lindsell. I bought this stand because of its measurements, they are almost identical to the latest data for size 14 (UK) measurements, within a couple of millimetres. It was only after I bought the stand from Saville Row in London that they told me it had only been used once to make a dress for Byonce. She obviously has a perfect figure, nice and shapely. The deficiencies of modern dress stands are a subject for another day!

I then fit and perfect the block on the dress stand and make any amendments necessary, this is commonly referred to as ‘toiling’ in the fashion industry.

We Have One Size – How do we then make the full range of sizes we supply –

 

Once we are satisfied with the ‘base size’ we can then ‘grade’ the block. Grading is the term used to create a range of sizes from a base size; in this case our base size is a size 12. (In the case of our outsize blocks our base size will be larger).

Pattern grading uses a set of mathematical formulas to grow a pattern piece by a specific amount and small movements in a positive of negative X or Y direction are made. This is how the various sizes of a pattern or design are developed. Every company has its own set of grade rules, and these are usually guarded closely as a trade secret because they take a lot of time and effort to develop. Once a company has an established set of grade rules, they tend to keep top secret. There are many variations of grading that exist in the industry. On your pattern block size guide you will see that I have indicated the total grading increment. This is the amount your block increases or decreases per size. For example there is usually a 5 cm difference between a size 12 and a size 14 bust. The same difference applies to the waist and hips. Some companies use a 4 cm difference.

Each small increase or decrease of the pattern is carried out in millimetres.

Hopefully this has given you an idea of the time, skill and effort that has gone into creating these blocks for you. If you have one of my blocks then hopefully I have saved you a great deal of time and stress!

If you have any question, comments or ideas please email me at onitnotinit@mail.com

Please see our shops page within the blog for places you can purchase our blocks, we have over 100 different blocks sets. Ranges include Ladies Blocks, Plus Sized Block, Baby, Child and Teen Blocks, and Menswear Blocks.

Continue Reading