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The Contour Fitted Corset Block – a must have block!

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My contour fitted corset block was developed by modelling or draping, as it’s often called, directly on the mannequin. Using this technique gives a shape that fits to the curves of the body perfectly!

I use mine for developing a range of styles and also as a base layer for complicated draped designs, it gives me a secure base to be able to create some beautiful draped garments.

Each pattern piece is related directly to the shape of the body!

As you can see – instead of the normal shaping of a regular bodice, the seams are more curved – this created a shape that curves to the contours of the body and fits like a glove!

Nice curved seams!
The pink line shows a contoured fit from a side view- over the bust shape – compared to a regular fit shown by the purple line

This is of course a basic block, which means that it has no seam allowance added . The style can be sewn up as it is, with no changes to the block. Just add seam allowance to each seam you intend to sew – there’s no need to add seam allowance to the center front as this is placed on a fold line when cutting in fabric (if you keep to the basic design). It’s also a good idea to add a generous quantity of seam allowance around the pattern piece (1.5 cm). This will allow you to fit the garment to the wearer and make adjustments for individual figure types.

Cut out and sew each vertical seam first in the order shown above – Pin to a body first to see the shape if you need to.
How the corset looks when sewn up with no adaptation – the white dotted lines show the center front panel which is cut on the fold of the fabric.

You can use this basic shape as it is or as a base to create your own designs – here are some of the designs that you could make from this basic shape!

Alter the shaping of the center front panel for a different look!
Use as a base for lingerie development!
Use as a base to enable you to create draped styles.
Use with a comfort stretch fabric and add to a skirt to form a dress!
Be as creative as you can be!

I hope this short post gives you some inspiration on what you can do with this basic waisted corset shape – it’s always a good idea to cut out the basic pieces in a trial fabric, for example a calico. You can then fit the shapes to a dress stand, or a willing model, to get an idea of the shape.

Why not draw on the shape to change the design, pin draped sections on top, I would love to see what you can do!

You may also find my post on applying boning to a corset helpful – https://modelistecreative.com/2018/05/06/how-to-use-rigilene-polyester-boning-properly/

As always, if you have any questions then please ask – the basic contoured corset block is available as a PDF instant download and also as a physical printed pattern sheet. (Note the printed pattern sheet has seam allowance added for you)

Happy Sewing,

Nicola

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