My Latest Video – Part 1 is now available!

April 6, 2019 No Comments

Subscribe to be automatically notified when part 2 – 6 are released!

It’s hard work finding the time to make videos!

Finally I have a series of videos all related to moving the darts around the bodice block. I am always surprised when I have a message from a customer that tells me that the position of the dart, on the block they have just purchased from me, is not quite in the right position for them. I then show them how to move a dart, and a whole world opens up!

Its very unlikely that a designer would want to keep the bodice darts in the same position they are on the basic block, for every style they produce. This useful series of videos will show you the many options you have for dart positions. In part 1 we look at moving the waist dart into the shoulder.

Part 1 – find all your handouts for this mini course in the subscribers only area!

There are 6 parts to this first series which covers the slashing method of dart manipulation and you can download all your class materials in the members only area. You will need to subscribe to gain access to this area, once you are subscribed – check your spam folder if you cant find the e-mail – you will be sent the secret members password – please let me know if you need any help with this.

Click to watch and don’t forget to get your class materials and free half scale blocks and templates! Please give me a thumbs up and a comment!
click to watch

Half scale size 12 Modeliste Creative Blocks – for my full scale range see below for a link to my Etsy Shop

Click here to see my Modeliste Creative colour bodice block / sloper in my Etsy Shop

Thanks for watching and if you have any questions at all then, as always, please get in touch!

Nicola X

Current Projects

Working in Half Scale

March 27, 2019 No Comments

When I taught pattern cutting at degree level I always preferred to teach in full scale, as I believe it helps the student to get a second sense for proportion, fit and develop good cutting lines.

One year I decided to do a quick 15 minute session for those students that arrived early to class, in that session we used a half scale mannequin and very quickly covered a creative pattern cutting technique! I had fantastic feedback and my students told me they learnt a great deal from those sessions!

Today I have had a little fun preparing my blocks in half scale and sewing up a half scale toile! I plan to use these in my upcoming video tutorials.. so watch this space!

I must admit, I had to have a break after inserting one sleeve! It was quite stressful, but I know my half scale blocks fit my half scale stand and now I can work with them confidently!

Happy Pattern Drafting!

Nicola x

Current Projects

Monthly Project… The 8 Paneled Skirt

March 27, 2019 No Comments

For those of you that read my monthly magazine article in the French Publication DSM, here is a more detailed run through of the latest project. For everyone else, why not give this a try!

Part 1 – Designing and Making Your Bespoke Flared Skirt

Have you ever wanted to make something that fits you perfectly? Here is your chance to learn how to create the pattern for this versatile 8 panel skirt, it is as simple as making 1 panel and cutting it out 8 times in fabric!

In part 2 of this project I will cover the skills you need to sew the skirt.

Step 1 – Fill in your measurements on the handy chart below.

For this example I have inserted the average measurements for a size 12 in PINK for you to follow, you will of course have to substitute your own measurements for the pink ones!

The measurements in pink are an example set – insert your own.

Measure your waist and add some extra for movement, it you want a fitted skirt add approximately 2 cm extra. If you want a looser skirt you can add a little more. If you want to use a knitted fabric no extra above your actual body measurement is needed. Now divide this total by 8 as illustrated above.

Do the same for your top hip, this lies at 10 cm below your waist and the same for your hip which lies at 21 cm below your waist line. Decide on the skirt length you would like – we now have all the measurements we need for you to make your pattern!

Step 2 – draw a vertical line on a large sheet of paper, the line needs to be slightly longer than the skirt length you have chosen. At the top of the line draw a horizontal line to represent the waist – each side of this line you can place the measurement you calculated for your waist (4.6 for my example placed equally each side of the centre). Ten centimeters below the waist level do the same for the top hip and again for the full hip. You can square down from the hip until you hit the line extended out for the length of skirt. Make the skirt long for an elegant evening version, or shorter for a flouncy summer skirt!

Step 3 – Now to add some flare! Decide where you would like the flare to ‘flare’ from. This can be as high up as the hip if you want. Place a horizontal line at this level to mark the flare line. Cut up the centre of the panel and to the side of the flare line and spread the pieces as illustrated below. You can open then as much or as little as you like, so long as they are opened equally each side.

Step 4 – place the pieces on a new sheet of paper and trace the shape you have created. The waist can be shaped gently by extending the waist line up by 0.5 cm each side and gently curving at the centre.

Step 5 – all you need to do now is add some seam allowance and your main pattern piece is complete!

Step 6 – the waist can be finished in several ways, the simplest way is to cut an exact copy of the top of the skirt at a depth of 6 cm from the waist line, this will be your facing panel and you will also cut the pattern piece 8 times in fabric.

You now have your pattern – in part 2 I will show you how to sew this lovely skirt and then we can take a look at how to develop the skirt for a knit fabric with an elasticated waist!

See you next month for part 2 – sewing the paneled skirt.

Nicola x

Current Projects

My Latest Blocks… Super Stretch!

March 22, 2019 No Comments

I have been working on my latest block release for a long long time, trying hard to get a balance between super super body con fit and a dress that moves correctly in wear and finally I have it!

I also took the time to regrade and re-vamp the blocks sheet and add in some extra features. As I update my blocks from now on I am adding 1/4 scale versions of each block, perfect for practice and ideal for experimenting before you commit to drafting in full scale. I often work in 1/4 or half scale to develop complex patterns.

Here is a preview of my latest block!

You can find the block in my Etsy Store –https://www.etsy.com/uk/DesignCutAndWear/listing/678251900/super-stretch-dress-block-sizes-xxs-to?utm_source=Copy&utm_medium=ListingManager&utm_campaign=Share&utm_term=so.lmsm&share_time=1553266872656

See you soon with more exciting blocks!

Nicola x

Current Projects

Sunday Sewing Tip

March 17, 2019 No Comments

Create a visual reference for the different stitches on your machine and how they look with different widths and length options.

My current obsession is bra making. I love the detail and the fact that all the pattern pieces are so small and functional, they each have their own job to do in making the bra fit and perform as it should. Stitch width and length is important to both the structure and the look of the finished garment!

I now use the zig zig stitch and the three step zig zag stitch a great deal for these intricate garments and I am constantly experimenting with stitch width and length.

Create your own visual guide – get to know your machine and what it can do.

To save me some time I spent a few minutes making some samples to show how the different stitch lengths and widths look on my most used stitches. I wanted to have a quick visual reference to help me decide which stitch width and length I should select for differing elastic widths etc. Of course all machines are different and have different settings.

I thought I would share this with you! Why not create your own.

Current Projects

Pattern Cutting Help…

March 17, 2019 1 Comment

I often offer help to my subscribers here on my blog, so if you have any questions about techniques or styles you would like help with then just let me know!

One of my subscribers has asked for help in deciding the best method to create the shape at the front of this dress.

The best way to create this shape is by modelling directly onto the dress stand, that is, if you are creating this shape from scratch to your own design. Simply take your fabric and apply it to the dress stand and be as creative as you like. However there is another method you can use.

If you would like to create a shape similar to this one using a flat pattern cutting technique the the following method will help you.

This is the shape created from following the silhouette of the top half

I would create this shape in two sections and seam at the waist…

I hope this helps you create some interesting shapes!

Happy pattern making,

Nicola

x

Current Projects

The Cheeky Monster Project

March 4, 2019 No Comments

Here is your monthly free sewing project, it’s more complex than it looks, as the shape of the curves are quite difficult to sew, but it’s great practice and a fun way to use up odd pieces of fabric!

Free Pattern & Sewing Instructions For Subscribers!

Simply subscribe to gain access to the subscribers free content area for your free ‘Cheeky Monster’ pattern and step by step making instructions – as featured in my monthly craft project in the French Magazine DSM!

All my free pattern and information can be printed at home on your A4 printer and compiled to form a whole pattern piece – as always if you have any questions or comments then please get in touch.

Nicola X

design and pattern cutting, General Info

Freelance Pattern Cutting & Grading…

February 19, 2019 3 Comments

I am regularly asked about freelance pattern cutting or grading, and while I am always happy to take on a challenging project I want to make sure my clients know how much time it takes to develop a pattern from a design, test the pattern, produce a ‘toile’ and ensure the sizing and fit are perfect.

Even a simple pattern, developed from a basic block, can take a couple of hours to produce.

I do have a wide range of basic blocks that you can purchase and develop your own patterns from, and if you have basic pattern cutting skills then this is always the most economical option. If you need help selecting the most suitable block then just ask, I am always happy to help. I want my clients to know that the price I charge for a basic block or pattern is not the same as the price I would have to charge for bespoke patterns. Most of the blocks and patterns I sell in my shops have taken me a couple of weeks at least to perfect, it is only the fact that I hope to sell multiple copies that helps me keep the price so low.

If you don’t have the skills just yet to produce your own patterns then read on…

For those projects I take on I charge an hourly rate and for a pattern maker with my experience and expertise the going rate is £40.00 per hour (some pattern cutters and graders charge up to £70.00 per hour). To give you an idea of the time it takes to produce a simple pattern, this would be around 2 hours, of course if you want a toile, pictures, size charts, etc then you can see how the cost can add up.

I hope this information is helpful and gives you an idea of the work involved and the time it takes. Knowing all this if you would like me to give you a quote for your freelance pattern cutting needs then just let me know!

Freelance Pattern Cutting & Grading Service

Current Projects

How to sew your own ‘Smocked’ top!

February 15, 2019 1 Comment

Smocking is back in fashion, I can’t remember the last time I used sheering elastic to smock a piece of fabric! Since my last project giveaway I have had several requests to cover the technique, so here we go – a blast from the past.

You will need:

Some cotton fabric, gingham works well; the width can be between 1 and a half to twice your finished bust measurement. If you choose to use the technique to make a skirt then the width of the fabric needs to be approximately 1.5 to 2 X your waist measurement. The length of the fabric is up to you.

Some ribbon or fabric to make the straps, approximately 1.5 meters in length and as wide as you choose.

1 reel of matching regular sewing thread

1 reel of matching sheering elastic

1 empty spool

A tape measure

Some fabric scissors

A few pins

A ruler or a set square

Either fabric marking chalk or a fabric marking pencil (one that will disappear).

Let’s sew

Step1 – cut the cotton fabric piece as follows:

Take the measurement across the fullest part of your bust and multiply this measurement by between 1.5 to 2.

For example a bust of 90cm would need between 135cm to 180cm – my fabric is 150cm wide so I will use the full width of the piece to simplify things, now I just need to decide how long I want my top and for me this is 53cm.

Step 2 – Take the empty spool and wrap the elastic thread around the bobbin case, pulling as you go, the more you pull the more elasticated your top will be, you do need to pull a good amount and steadily, this hurts your fingers a little, but the results will be worth it!

Insert the elastic filled spool case into your machine and with normal thread at the top, pull the elastic through the machine as you would normally. The only difference is that you have elastic and not sewing thread on the spool. If you can, release the foot pressure on your machine and set the machine to the longest stitch length available.

Step 3 – Decide how far down the top neck edge of your fabric piece you would like the smocking to start, leave this amount and a little extra for the hem allowance. Mark your first line of sheering with your fabric pen or chalk pen along the piece on the right side of the fabric, you can continue to mark each sewing line if you wish, or simply mark the first sewing line and then use the width of your sewing foot to sew each subsequent line of stitching.

Step 4 – Take your fabric to the machine and with the right side facing upwards sew your first row of stitching, DO NOT BACK TACK AT THE BEGINNING OR END OF THE ROW and leave nice long elastic and thread ends so that they can be tied off to secure later. Continue to sew lines of stitching underneath until you are happy with the depth of the sheering, for my example I stopped at 17 rows of stitching.

Step 5 – Now tie each row of stitching off at the ends to secure.

Step 6 – now you can sew the vertical seam, this can be your center back seam, and neaten with your preferred method, as I used the whole width of the fabric my fabric edges are the selvedge of the fabric and don’t need to be neatened.

Step 7 – Hem the bottom of your garment, a double hem will finish off the hem edge nicely if you don’t have an overlocker!

Step 8 – Now try the top on and attach straps if you want to, you can use ribbon, or a decorative trim or even the same fabric as the top. When you are happy with the strap position and length you can sew the neckline hem, sandwiching the straps into the seam.

Adding Fabric Straps

To add fabric straps in the self fabric cut 4 strips of fabric equal to the length of strap you need and double the finished width you want with some extra for seam allowance.

The straps can be pinned to the top edge of your garment, pin so that the end of the strap is tucked under the seam allowance and catch the strap into the seam as you hem this top edge.

Now fold the strap back on itself to face upwards to the neck and top stitch from the right side to make sure the straps lie flat. You can sew all the way around the top if you wish to create some decorative top stitching if you wish, it simply secure the hems in position were you need to.

You can choose to secure the strap just where the pin is or as shown below you can top stitch all the way around the top to add some detail.

Give your top a good press, there is no need to press the sheering section, but you can give it a nice steam to relax the elastic.

Now you have mastered this method why not make yourself a skirt, or use the method to introduce sheered panels into your sewing projects.

As always, any questions at all then please get in touch.

Nicola

Current Projects

Pattern Cutting & Sewing Course in France!

February 7, 2019 3 Comments

One to One – Tailor your learning to exactly what you need !Join me at our beautiful restored farmhouse in rural France. Learn the art of pattern cutting, or improve your pattern cutting or sewing skills, in an informal and relaxed learning environment whilst enjoying the French countryside and taking in a bit of French culture.

I now offer bespoke pattern cutting or sewing days so that learners can tailor their course to their individual needs. I can cater for between one and four people per course. Book in for any number of days to suit your needs.

We understand that flights can be on different days from different parts of the world, so we arrange each course to suit your needs. Please get in touch for availability.

If you have a partner that would like to join you but does not wish to take part in the course, this can easily be arranged.

Take a look at our gite Facebook page for pictures of our accommodation for a closer look at our setting and our rooms.

Course Plan – Sample of a 1 week course outline –

Day 1 – let’s see what you know and what you need to know.

This is an opportunity for everyone to review their skills level and to formulate an individual learning plan, to ensure everyone, whether you are a beginner or a seasoned pattern cutter, gets the most out of the coming week.

Day 2 – let’s push your creative pattern cutting skills to their limits

Modelling on the dress stand, learn the skills of ‘French Moulage’ and allow your creative pattern cutting skills to flourish.

Day 3 – Pattern cutting for stretch fabrics

We live in knit fabrics; let’s take a day to understand how to create patterns for stretch garments.

Day 4 – Style readings

Test your skills and test my skills as you develop patterns for a garment of your own design, there is no better way to learn!

Day 5 – The essentials you need to progress

Let’s take a look at grading and sizing and fit.

The above outline is a guide and your learning is very much tailored to suit your individual needs.

The cost of the course is £150 per day per person, for one of our private double rooms, including all meals and complimentary wine and a meal at a local restaurant for guests staying for one week. Additional non course attending guests sharing the double room can be added for a cost of £60.00 per night.

To find more details about the accommodation take a look at:

https://www.facebook.com/lapetitegite

If you would like to book a place on the course just drop me an e-mail at:

onitnotinit@mail.com and I will send you a booking form.

Happy Pattern Cutting,

Nicola

Blocks, Patterns & Pattern Cutting Courses!

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Smocking is back in fashion, I can’t remember the last time I used sheering elastic to smock a piece of fabric! Since my last project giveaway I have had several requests to cover the technique, so here we go – a blast from the past.

Let’s sew

Adding Fabric Straps

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Course Plan – Sample of a 1 week course outline –

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