All Things Pattern Making & Sewing…
Here is part 2 of my baby body suit video series – made to support the baby onesie basic block sheet. The video is also useful for those who want to know how to sew a baby body suit – or in fact an adult one. The techniques demonstrated in this video are perfect for all jersey projects. And I get to use my new popper machine!
The popper machine I use in the video can be found at:
You can find the baby onesie block sheet in my etsy shop:
Plus lots more baby blocks and more coming soon!
Nicola x
I love a wrap over top style. This is something you can do with your basic bodice block or you can use this technique and apply it to a pattern you already have.
As this is an a-symmetrical style – you will need to work on a whole front pattern piece. Mirror your basic shape at the center front.
It’s always best to move darts out of the way when you are planning a style line – cut along the lines with the little scissors symbols and fold out the darts with the little arrows! Of course if the shape you have doesn’t have darts then you can miss out this step.
See my videos on moving darts to different locations if you want to know more about moving darts.
Now plan the new neckline shaping…
Plan the new neckline from the shoulder – make sure it isn’t too narrow or it may slip off in wear – continue across the center front. You will need a little notch at the center front for fitting. Dip under the bust – making sure you avoid the fullness of the bust shape. Stop at the side seam if you want to or you can add a tie extension here that wraps around the body secures the garment.
Now cut along the neckline and remove the part you don’t need. Now plan the drape lines as shown.
Cut along the drape lines and fold out the remaining dart and watch the drape lines open up!
Now you can trace around the whole pattern shape. Cut a left and a right side. The little notch you placed at the center front now becomes important – as this is where the left and the right pattern piece will meet at the center front.
Why not give this technique a try – the same method can be used to create a wrap over skirt!
See you soon for more pattern cutting and sewing techniques.
Nicola x
One of my latest blocks sheet is the baby body block – in this video I show you how to create a pattern for a baby onesie. In part 2 of this video series I will cover how to sew the pattern together.
If you get a moment please like the video and place a quick comment – it really helps.
If you would like to take a close look at the block sheet then you can find in in my Etsy shop: https://etsy.me/2ORGqGq
See you soon for part 2 when we will sew the onesie together.
Nicola x
Here is the latest video on the series on how to move bodice darts – hope you find this useful!
Coming soon – a new series on drafting baby wear patterns and how to sew them!
Nicola
Here is my latest video – creating the French dart – This is part 4 of a series of videos on moving darts. Ideal for new pattern cutters and those wanting to make the most of their basic bodice blocks.
You can find the free half scale blocks (slopers) used in the video in the members area. Simply subscribe for the password.
If you want to take a look at my Modeliste Creative colour blocks range then you can find them here in my Etsy shop – https://etsy.me/36ZnYlq
Nicola x
I have also made a sew along video to accompany part 2 of the series – You can watch it here – Don’t forget to like the video and make a comment – it really helps!
Part 3 coming soon!
Nicola
Part 2 of my 3 part series devoted to making your own lingerie is about to be released at the sewing directory towards the end of this month. If you missed part 1 then you can find it by following the link below
https://www.thesewingdirectory.co.uk/how-to-sew-lingerie-part-one/
Part 1 covered drafting your panties basic block – to your own body measurements. In Part 2 I will cover how to sew your toile and test the fit.
If you didn’t get a chance to draft the panties block – don’t worry – I have drafted the block in a range of sizes for you – size 8 UK (4 USA) to size 22 UK ( 18 USA). Simply download and print on A3 paper (see my guide to printing as a poster if you only have an A4 printer)
So feel free to pick up at part 2 and join me again for part 3 where we will look at how to develop this basic knicker shape into a range of different styles.
See you over at The Sewing Directory – for many more articles.
Nicola x
They have been a long long time in the making, but they are finally ready to launch!
It’s taken a lot longer than I expected to create my new range of baby blocks in my Modeliste Creative range (This is my colour range with high street sizing). The sizing and drafting took a very long time to develop. However the fit trials took forever!
Normally my process is to draft my first block, try it out in the range of sizes and adapt the fit. I have a reliable and very valuable group of very experienced ladies, and men, that are always happy to help.
The wearer trials for my baby range from new born to 24 months proved very difficult to fit. I don’t have many babies in my life now, and it took a long time to find the babies I needed. Also babies grow very quickly so that was another issue. By the time that their busy mums got around to trying the garments on, the babies were no longer in the size bracket I needed! I had to start again so many times. I like to try each and every size I produce and this is even more important with baby blocks. I need to see the block on the wearer and make fit adjustments. Also babies can’t tell you if they are comfortable or not.
So far I have finalised the baby body block. This block is perfect for developing baby body patterns. It comes with a sleeve too.
The baby stretch / knit bodice was another block I was keen to develop. It has been designed for use with soft jersey fabric.
I decided to place each bodice block as a separate pattern piece. The grading between each size is as little as 1 millimeter in some areas, less than the thickness of a line, so for accuracy, this was the best way. I have also provided the graded nest as I think that’s important to see. The sleeves are also separate pieces. This set comes as 2 A0 sheets all printed in colour. This increases the price, but I think it’s definitely worth it.
I have also created a baby nappy (diaper) cover block – I have had such fun creating patterns from this block. It can be used for jersey styles in its basic form. It can also be used as a base to add fullness and create some intricate nappy covers.
In the pipeline I have a woven romper block, a woven bodice block for dress development, a coat block – the list goes on!
All blocks will be available in my Etsy shop and on my web site.
Nicola x
Happy New Year to all my subscribers. As we start a new year I thought I would let you know my plans for 2020.
I have really enjoyed teaching on a one to one basis this year. My one to one courses have brought students from all over the world, including the U.K. , America, Canada, South Africa and France.
I plan to concentrate on my baby and child blocks and increase the range. I must admit that children’s wear is not my favorite area, but I follow where my customers lead.
For my own enjoyment I will continue to learn all I can about bra grading, in particular large cup sizes, and I look forward to sharing my journey here with you.
I am also currently learning to use a new FREE pattern drafting software! I plan to create a range of videos showing how to use the software – watch this space!
If you have any ideas for posts you would like to see then please let me know.
Also why not follow me at the sewing directory as I show you how to draft and make your own made to measure lingerie. In part 1 this month we look at drafting a basic panties block – part 2 will cover making the panties toile and part 3 will show you how to create a range of styles from your basic block.
2020 will also see me try to get to grips with social media! I also aim to produce many more YouTube videos.
I also have an exciting personal event planned for 2020, but for now I will keep that a secret – it involves loosing some weight first and making a dress!
Happy new year to you all – let me know your plans for the year ahead – I would love to hear. Maybe putting them down in writing will help make them happen.
Nicola
My first contribution to the sewing directory goes live this evening at 8 pm – take a look at my detailed guide to facings!
