Current Projects

Why I have been so quiet recently! My New business!

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You may have noticed that recently I have been very quiet here on my blog site, and I am now ready to let you all know why!

I have been busy creating a new business.

Lockdown released me from all my teaching and course commitments, and as I am not one to just sit around I decided to create a brand new business.

I wanted to make something that was fun and colourful. Something that would give anybody who is interested in craft or fashion an economical and interesting way to get involved in sewing and creating clothing the right way.

My passion has always been teaching, and I love helping people of all ages and abilities to start sewing or improve their sewing and use patterns, so to this end I created Wabi-Sabi Life – and a range of 7 dolls or ‘charters’ as I like to call them.

Each character has their own fabric, and a matching wardrobe.

I have used all my skills to create the fabrics myself and designed them with extra small prints, so they are perfect for these 1:6 size dolls – they even have their own range of t-shirts printed on stretch lycra!

I absolutely loved making these tiny kimonos.

I have put as much time and effort into making the patterns for my character garments as I do for my full size patterns! The sewing techniques are the same for these tiny garments as they are for full size garments and the skills are the same! I now look at tiny scraps of fabric in a completely new way! Even the smallest scraps can be used to make something wonderful! And with fabric being so expensive at the moment that really is a plus.

Each kit comes in cardboard packaging and we try to avoid plastic packaging as much as we possibly can!

I have also created a detailed making guided for each project and a YouTube video to guide the maker through the whole process. These can all be found over at my new blog site www.wabisabistudio.co.uk.

Wabi-Sabi studio is also the place to ask questions about the projects!

All these products are available in my brand new Etsy shop so if you would like to introduce sewing to a beginner in a fun way or start a new hobby then why not take a look!

Use the coupon code below for 10% off any order.

https://www.etsy.com/shop/WabiSabiLifeDesigns?coupon=MODELISTECREATIVE10

A t-shirt made for the t-shirt kit

I began my sewing journey sewing small mice out of fabric scraps, and I truly believe that sewing is a skill that everyone should possess and who knows where it would lead!

Oh and by the way, I also created a range of purse, pencil case and bag kits to match. With a range of colourful Wabi-Sabi branded children’s and adult clothing in the pipeline!

On top of all that with a little help (well a lot actually), I have finally made some progress with social media! So if you would like to – follow, join, subscribe or like then see below! Phew.

Social Media Links:

Instagram

Facebook

Pinterest

Twitter

YouTube

I hope to have a more time now to get back to my full size projects, but to be honest I am having so much fun with these tiny garments that I am certain to be adding many more outfits to the collection!

Hope to see you over at Wabi-Sabi Life!

Nicola

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Current Projects

The Straight Top – making the most of your block with the free collar template…

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The straight top block sewn as a toile

As with any basic block, whether it is one you have drafted yourself, or one you have purchased from me, you should always make a toile. This important first step allows you to assess the fit of the block and all its proportions.

My straight top block has been manipulated to remove all the darts, but still gives a good fit over the bust area.

I use this block for shirts, bomber jackets, casual tops, etc etc.

I have recently drafted a basic collar shape for this block, so for those of you that already have the block here is the free collar template. Simply download and open in Adobe Acrobat reader and print at 100% scale – there is a control square on the page and this should measure 2.5 cm x 2.5 cm (1 inch x 1 inch)

straight-top-block-free-collar-template-A4Download

Once you have this basic collar template you can experiment with the ‘leaf edge’ of the collar and create your own collar designs – the ‘neck edge’ needs to stay the same – as it has been drafted to fit your block.

Experiment with the collar shape!

I hope this ‘free template’ save you time – I would love to see the designs you produce from this versatile basic block!

Happy pattern cutting & sewing!

Nicola

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Current Projects

The Contour Fitted Corset Block – a must have block!

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My contour fitted corset block was developed by modelling or draping, as it’s often called, directly on the mannequin. Using this technique gives a shape that fits to the curves of the body perfectly!

I use mine for developing a range of styles and also as a base layer for complicated draped designs, it gives me a secure base to be able to create some beautiful draped garments.

Each pattern piece is related directly to the shape of the body!

As you can see – instead of the normal shaping of a regular bodice, the seams are more curved – this created a shape that curves to the contours of the body and fits like a glove!

Nice curved seams!
The pink line shows a contoured fit from a side view- over the bust shape – compared to a regular fit shown by the purple line

This is of course a basic block, which means that it has no seam allowance added . The style can be sewn up as it is, with no changes to the block. Just add seam allowance to each seam you intend to sew – there’s no need to add seam allowance to the center front as this is placed on a fold line when cutting in fabric (if you keep to the basic design). It’s also a good idea to add a generous quantity of seam allowance around the pattern piece (1.5 cm). This will allow you to fit the garment to the wearer and make adjustments for individual figure types.

Cut out and sew each vertical seam first in the order shown above – Pin to a body first to see the shape if you need to.
How the corset looks when sewn up with no adaptation – the white dotted lines show the center front panel which is cut on the fold of the fabric.

You can use this basic shape as it is or as a base to create your own designs – here are some of the designs that you could make from this basic shape!

Alter the shaping of the center front panel for a different look!
Use as a base for lingerie development!
Use as a base to enable you to create draped styles.
Use with a comfort stretch fabric and add to a skirt to form a dress!
Be as creative as you can be!

I hope this short post gives you some inspiration on what you can do with this basic waisted corset shape – it’s always a good idea to cut out the basic pieces in a trial fabric, for example a calico. You can then fit the shapes to a dress stand, or a willing model, to get an idea of the shape.

Why not draw on the shape to change the design, pin draped sections on top, I would love to see what you can do!

You may also find my post on applying boning to a corset helpful – https://modelistecreative.com/2018/05/06/how-to-use-rigilene-polyester-boning-properly/

As always, if you have any questions then please ask – the basic contoured corset block is available as a PDF instant download and also as a physical printed pattern sheet. (Note the printed pattern sheet has seam allowance added for you)

Happy Sewing,

Nicola

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Current Projects, Free Downloads

The 3D Face Mask Pattern

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I have been making these face masks for family and friends, so thought I would share the pattern here on my blog – it’s totally free – you can make as many as you like, all I ask is that you don’t make money from them – I feel in times like this we should help others and not try to profit.

I made the first prototype and then adjusted the pattern to allow more space at the front for breathing.

This is my second prototype!
3D mask! Modeled by my partner Steve! (reluctantly)

Here is the pattern – simply open it as a PDF in Adobe Reader and print – let me know if you need any help – see below for the making guide.

FREE-3D-FACEMASK-PATTERN-3-x-A4-pagesDownload
Cut 2 in cotton fabric –

You will need a piece of cotton fabric 20 cm x 60 cm to cut 2 layers

The mask can also be made of terry towelling and in that case you can cut 1 layer of fabric.

Creating the 3D shape.

Sew a small dart at the top – for the nose. Now sew a dart seam at the base for the chin shaping. Press the seams – you will need to clip in at the chin shaping to allow you to press the seam open.

Have the darts going in different directions – to avoid bulk!

I pressed my nose darts in different directions, one to the left and one to the right – to avoid too much bulk at the nose.

Place the layers together – right sides out.

Now place the 2 layers together with the right sides of the fabric facing outwards and use a straight stitch to hold the 2 layers together

Pin the pleats in position – in the direction shown on the pattern piece and sew with a straight stitch to secure. You can do the previous 2 steps all in one go if you are an experienced sewer!

I used FOE – Fold over elastic to bind my mask – mainly because I have plenty of it and also because it stretches so the ties are better. You can also use plain cotton bias binding – see my post on making your own bias binding https://modelistecreative.com/2018/02/19/make-sew-your-own-bias-binding-tape/

– or see my YouTube video on applying FOE if you need any help with this.

Watch if you need to – leave a comment and a thumbs up!

Bind the edges of the mask first – you have already secured the pleats in position with a holding stitch so this should be easier.

I used a zig zag stitch to apply my elastic binding.

Now continue to apply binding to the top and bottom of the mask. I used elastic binding which allowed me to pull a little over the nose and under the chin to make the mask a snugger fit.

leave ends as ties – mine are 20 cm long – you may want them a little longer if you are using cotton bias binding.

All done!

As always I am happy to answer any questions, just leave a comment below.

Happy mask making!

Nicola

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Current Projects

Sewing a Super Cute Baby Onesie – Body Suit

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Here is part 2 of my baby body suit video series – made to support the baby onesie basic block sheet. The video is also useful for those who want to know how to sew a baby body suit – or in fact an adult one. The techniques demonstrated in this video are perfect for all jersey projects. And I get to use my new popper machine!

The popper machine I use in the video can be found at:

https://amzn.to/2TbhACC

You can find the baby onesie block sheet in my etsy shop:

https://www.etsy.com/uk/listing/758583054/baby-body-block-sloper-height-53-cm-to?ref=shop_home_active_10&frs=1

Plus lots more baby blocks and more coming soon!

Nicola x

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Current Projects

The Wrap Over Top – Pattern Development

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Pinned on the dress stand in paper.

I love a wrap over top style. This is something you can do with your basic bodice block or you can use this technique and apply it to a pattern you already have.

As this is an a-symmetrical style – you will need to work on a whole front pattern piece. Mirror your basic shape at the center front.

Mirror your pattern piece at the center front – to make a whole front.

It’s always best to move darts out of the way when you are planning a style line – cut along the lines with the little scissors symbols and fold out the darts with the little arrows! Of course if the shape you have doesn’t have darts then you can miss out this step.

See my videos on moving darts to different locations if you want to know more about moving darts.

A clear route to planning the neckline

Now plan the new neckline shaping…

Plan the new neckline from the shoulder – make sure it isn’t too narrow or it may slip off in wear – continue across the center front. You will need a little notch at the center front for fitting. Dip under the bust – making sure you avoid the fullness of the bust shape. Stop at the side seam if you want to or you can add a tie extension here that wraps around the body secures the garment.

Detach the part you don’t need.

Now cut along the neckline and remove the part you don’t need. Now plan the drape lines as shown.

Fold out the last dart.

Cut along the drape lines and fold out the remaining dart and watch the drape lines open up!

Now you can trace around the whole pattern shape. Cut a left and a right side. The little notch you placed at the center front now becomes important – as this is where the left and the right pattern piece will meet at the center front.

Match the center front notches.

Why not give this technique a try – the same method can be used to create a wrap over skirt!

See you soon for more pattern cutting and sewing techniques.

Nicola x

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Current Projects

The Baby Body Block – or Onesie – How to draft a pattern from this basic block

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One of my latest blocks sheet is the baby body block – in this video I show you how to create a pattern for a baby onesie. In part 2 of this video series I will cover how to sew the pattern together.

If you get a moment please like the video and place a quick comment – it really helps.

If you would like to take a close look at the block sheet then you can find in in my Etsy shop: https://etsy.me/2ORGqGq

Don’t forget to give me a like, and a comment – I love to hear from you!

See you soon for part 2 when we will sew the onesie together.

Lots more basic blocks and slopers in the pipeline!

Nicola x

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Current Projects

The French Dart

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Here is my latest video – creating the French dart – This is part 4 of a series of videos on moving darts. Ideal for new pattern cutters and those wanting to make the most of their basic bodice blocks.

You can find the free half scale blocks (slopers) used in the video in the members area. Simply subscribe for the password.

If you want to take a look at my Modeliste Creative colour blocks range then you can find them here in my Etsy shop – https://etsy.me/36ZnYlq

Watch in YouTube – Please Like – Subscribe and Click the bell for new video notifications – I aim to make one video a week from now on so please let me know if you have any requests.

Nicola x

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