Current Projects

The Contour Fitted Corset Block – a must have block!

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My contour fitted corset block was developed by modelling or draping, as it’s often called, directly on the mannequin. Using this technique gives a shape that fits to the curves of the body perfectly!

I use mine for developing a range of styles and also as a base layer for complicated draped designs, it gives me a secure base to be able to create some beautiful draped garments.

Each pattern piece is related directly to the shape of the body!

As you can see – instead of the normal shaping of a regular bodice, the seams are more curved – this created a shape that curves to the contours of the body and fits like a glove!

Nice curved seams!
The pink line shows a contoured fit from a side view- over the bust shape – compared to a regular fit shown by the purple line

This is of course a basic block, which means that it has no seam allowance added . The style can be sewn up as it is, with no changes to the block. Just add seam allowance to each seam you intend to sew – there’s no need to add seam allowance to the center front as this is placed on a fold line when cutting in fabric (if you keep to the basic design). It’s also a good idea to add a generous quantity of seam allowance around the pattern piece (1.5 cm). This will allow you to fit the garment to the wearer and make adjustments for individual figure types.

Cut out and sew each vertical seam first in the order shown above – Pin to a body first to see the shape if you need to.
How the corset looks when sewn up with no adaptation – the white dotted lines show the center front panel which is cut on the fold of the fabric.

You can use this basic shape as it is or as a base to create your own designs – here are some of the designs that you could make from this basic shape!

Alter the shaping of the center front panel for a different look!
Use as a base for lingerie development!
Use as a base to enable you to create draped styles.
Use with a comfort stretch fabric and add to a skirt to form a dress!
Be as creative as you can be!

I hope this short post gives you some inspiration on what you can do with this basic waisted corset shape – it’s always a good idea to cut out the basic pieces in a trial fabric, for example a calico. You can then fit the shapes to a dress stand, or a willing model, to get an idea of the shape.

Why not draw on the shape to change the design, pin draped sections on top, I would love to see what you can do!

You may also find my post on applying boning to a corset helpful – https://modelistecreative.com/2018/05/06/how-to-use-rigilene-polyester-boning-properly/

As always, if you have any questions then please ask – the basic contoured corset block is available as a PDF instant download and also as a physical printed pattern sheet. (Note the printed pattern sheet has seam allowance added for you)

Happy Sewing,

Nicola

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Current Projects, Free Downloads

The 3D Face Mask Pattern

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I have been making these face masks for family and friends, so thought I would share the pattern here on my blog – it’s totally free – you can make as many as you like, all I ask is that you don’t make money from them – I feel in times like this we should help others and not try to profit.

I made the first prototype and then adjusted the pattern to allow more space at the front for breathing.

This is my second prototype!
3D mask! Modeled by my partner Steve! (reluctantly)

Here is the pattern – simply open it as a PDF in Adobe Reader and print – let me know if you need any help – see below for the making guide.

FREE-3D-FACEMASK-PATTERN-3-x-A4-pagesDownload
Cut 2 in cotton fabric –

You will need a piece of cotton fabric 20 cm x 60 cm to cut 2 layers

The mask can also be made of terry towelling and in that case you can cut 1 layer of fabric.

Creating the 3D shape.

Sew a small dart at the top – for the nose. Now sew a dart seam at the base for the chin shaping. Press the seams – you will need to clip in at the chin shaping to allow you to press the seam open.

Have the darts going in different directions – to avoid bulk!

I pressed my nose darts in different directions, one to the left and one to the right – to avoid too much bulk at the nose.

Place the layers together – right sides out.

Now place the 2 layers together with the right sides of the fabric facing outwards and use a straight stitch to hold the 2 layers together

Pin the pleats in position – in the direction shown on the pattern piece and sew with a straight stitch to secure. You can do the previous 2 steps all in one go if you are an experienced sewer!

I used FOE – Fold over elastic to bind my mask – mainly because I have plenty of it and also because it stretches so the ties are better. You can also use plain cotton bias binding – see my post on making your own bias binding https://modelistecreative.com/2018/02/19/make-sew-your-own-bias-binding-tape/

– or see my YouTube video on applying FOE if you need any help with this.

Watch if you need to – leave a comment and a thumbs up!

Bind the edges of the mask first – you have already secured the pleats in position with a holding stitch so this should be easier.

I used a zig zag stitch to apply my elastic binding.

Now continue to apply binding to the top and bottom of the mask. I used elastic binding which allowed me to pull a little over the nose and under the chin to make the mask a snugger fit.

leave ends as ties – mine are 20 cm long – you may want them a little longer if you are using cotton bias binding.

All done!

As always I am happy to answer any questions, just leave a comment below.

Happy mask making!

Nicola

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Current Projects

Sewing a Super Cute Baby Onesie – Body Suit

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Here is part 2 of my baby body suit video series – made to support the baby onesie basic block sheet. The video is also useful for those who want to know how to sew a baby body suit – or in fact an adult one. The techniques demonstrated in this video are perfect for all jersey projects. And I get to use my new popper machine!

The popper machine I use in the video can be found at:

https://amzn.to/2TbhACC

You can find the baby onesie block sheet in my etsy shop:

https://www.etsy.com/uk/listing/758583054/baby-body-block-sloper-height-53-cm-to?ref=shop_home_active_10&frs=1

Plus lots more baby blocks and more coming soon!

Nicola x

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Current Projects

The Wrap Over Top – Pattern Development

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Pinned on the dress stand in paper.

I love a wrap over top style. This is something you can do with your basic bodice block or you can use this technique and apply it to a pattern you already have.

As this is an a-symmetrical style – you will need to work on a whole front pattern piece. Mirror your basic shape at the center front.

Mirror your pattern piece at the center front – to make a whole front.

It’s always best to move darts out of the way when you are planning a style line – cut along the lines with the little scissors symbols and fold out the darts with the little arrows! Of course if the shape you have doesn’t have darts then you can miss out this step.

See my videos on moving darts to different locations if you want to know more about moving darts.

A clear route to planning the neckline

Now plan the new neckline shaping…

Plan the new neckline from the shoulder – make sure it isn’t too narrow or it may slip off in wear – continue across the center front. You will need a little notch at the center front for fitting. Dip under the bust – making sure you avoid the fullness of the bust shape. Stop at the side seam if you want to or you can add a tie extension here that wraps around the body secures the garment.

Detach the part you don’t need.

Now cut along the neckline and remove the part you don’t need. Now plan the drape lines as shown.

Fold out the last dart.

Cut along the drape lines and fold out the remaining dart and watch the drape lines open up!

Now you can trace around the whole pattern shape. Cut a left and a right side. The little notch you placed at the center front now becomes important – as this is where the left and the right pattern piece will meet at the center front.

Match the center front notches.

Why not give this technique a try – the same method can be used to create a wrap over skirt!

See you soon for more pattern cutting and sewing techniques.

Nicola x

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Current Projects

The Baby Body Block – or Onesie – How to draft a pattern from this basic block

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One of my latest blocks sheet is the baby body block – in this video I show you how to create a pattern for a baby onesie. In part 2 of this video series I will cover how to sew the pattern together.

If you get a moment please like the video and place a quick comment – it really helps.

If you would like to take a close look at the block sheet then you can find in in my Etsy shop: https://etsy.me/2ORGqGq

Don’t forget to give me a like, and a comment – I love to hear from you!

See you soon for part 2 when we will sew the onesie together.

Lots more basic blocks and slopers in the pipeline!

Nicola x

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Current Projects

The French Dart

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Here is my latest video – creating the French dart – This is part 4 of a series of videos on moving darts. Ideal for new pattern cutters and those wanting to make the most of their basic bodice blocks.

You can find the free half scale blocks (slopers) used in the video in the members area. Simply subscribe for the password.

If you want to take a look at my Modeliste Creative colour blocks range then you can find them here in my Etsy shop – https://etsy.me/36ZnYlq

Watch in YouTube – Please Like – Subscribe and Click the bell for new video notifications – I aim to make one video a week from now on so please let me know if you have any requests.

Nicola x

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Current Projects

Lingerie Series – follow me at the Sewing Directory…

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Developing a basic block from your own body measurements.

Part 2 of my 3 part series devoted to making your own lingerie is about to be released at the sewing directory towards the end of this month. If you missed part 1 then you can find it by following the link below

https://www.thesewingdirectory.co.uk/how-to-sew-lingerie-part-one/

Lots of great content!

Part 1 covered drafting your panties basic block – to your own body measurements. In Part 2 I will cover how to sew your toile and test the fit.

If you didn’t get a chance to draft the panties block – don’t worry – I have drafted the block in a range of sizes for you – size 8 UK (4 USA) to size 22 UK ( 18 USA). Simply download and print on A3 paper (see my guide to printing as a poster if you only have an A4 printer)

FREE-PANTIES-PRINT-17-A3-PAGES-8-TO-22-UK-4-TO-18-USA-updated_WatermarkedDownload

So feel free to pick up at part 2 and join me again for part 3 where we will look at how to develop this basic knicker shape into a range of different styles.

See you over at The Sewing Directory – for many more articles.

Nicola x

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Current Projects

Baby Blocks (Slopers) – Designing for babies 0 to 2 years.

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New Range of Baby Blocks 0 to 2 Years

They have been a long long time in the making, but they are finally ready to launch!

It’s taken a lot longer than I expected to create my new range of baby blocks in my Modeliste Creative range (This is my colour range with high street sizing). The sizing and drafting took a very long time to develop. However the fit trials took forever!

Normally my process is to draft my first block, try it out in the range of sizes and adapt the fit. I have a reliable and very valuable group of very experienced ladies, and men, that are always happy to help.

The wearer trials for my baby range from new born to 24 months proved very difficult to fit. I don’t have many babies in my life now, and it took a long time to find the babies I needed. Also babies grow very quickly so that was another issue. By the time that their busy mums got around to trying the garments on, the babies were no longer in the size bracket I needed! I had to start again so many times. I like to try each and every size I produce and this is even more important with baby blocks. I need to see the block on the wearer and make fit adjustments. Also babies can’t tell you if they are comfortable or not.

How fast they grow!

So far I have finalised the baby body block. This block is perfect for developing baby body patterns. It comes with a sleeve too.

Body Pattern Sheet
Adapt into a range of styles.

The baby stretch / knit bodice was another block I was keen to develop. It has been designed for use with soft jersey fabric.

This comes as 2 A0 Sheets!

I decided to place each bodice block as a separate pattern piece. The grading between each size is as little as 1 millimeter in some areas, less than the thickness of a line, so for accuracy, this was the best way. I have also provided the graded nest as I think that’s important to see. The sleeves are also separate pieces. This set comes as 2 A0 sheets all printed in colour. This increases the price, but I think it’s definitely worth it.

I have also created a baby nappy (diaper) cover block – I have had such fun creating patterns from this block. It can be used for jersey styles in its basic form. It can also be used as a base to add fullness and create some intricate nappy covers.

Use as a base for so many styles!

In the pipeline I have a woven romper block, a woven bodice block for dress development, a coat block – the list goes on!

All blocks will be available in my Etsy shop and on my web site.

Nicola x

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