The 3D Face Mask Pattern

I have been making these face masks for family and friends, so thought I would share the pattern here on my blog – it’s totally free – you can make as many as you like, all I ask is that you don’t make money from them – I feel in times like this we should help others and not try to profit.

I made the first prototype and then adjusted the pattern to allow more space at the front for breathing.

This is my second prototype!
3D mask! Modeled by my partner Steve! (reluctantly)

Here is the pattern – simply open it as a PDF in Adobe Reader and print – let me know if you need any help – see below for the making guide.

Cut 2 in cotton fabric –

You will need a piece of cotton fabric 20 cm x 60 cm to cut 2 layers

The mask can also be made of terry towelling and in that case you can cut 1 layer of fabric.

Creating the 3D shape.

Sew a small dart at the top – for the nose. Now sew a dart seam at the base for the chin shaping. Press the seams – you will need to clip in at the chin shaping to allow you to press the seam open.

Have the darts going in different directions – to avoid bulk!

I pressed my nose darts in different directions, one to the left and one to the right – to avoid too much bulk at the nose.

Place the layers together – right sides out.

Now place the 2 layers together with the right sides of the fabric facing outwards and use a straight stitch to hold the 2 layers together

Pin the pleats in position – in the direction shown on the pattern piece and sew with a straight stitch to secure. You can do the previous 2 steps all in one go if you are an experienced sewer!

I used FOE – Fold over elastic to bind my mask – mainly because I have plenty of it and also because it stretches so the ties are better. You can also use plain cotton bias binding – see my post on making your own bias binding https://modelistecreative.com/2018/02/19/make-sew-your-own-bias-binding-tape/

– or see my YouTube video on applying FOE if you need any help with this.

Watch if you need to – leave a comment and a thumbs up!

Bind the edges of the mask first – you have already secured the pleats in position with a holding stitch so this should be easier.

I used a zig zag stitch to apply my elastic binding.

Now continue to apply binding to the top and bottom of the mask. I used elastic binding which allowed me to pull a little over the nose and under the chin to make the mask a snugger fit.

leave ends as ties – mine are 20 cm long – you may want them a little longer if you are using cotton bias binding.

All done!

As always I am happy to answer any questions, just leave a comment below.

Happy mask making!

Nicola

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Sewing a Super Cute Baby Onesie – Body Suit

Here is part 2 of my baby body suit video series – made to support the baby onesie basic block sheet. The video is also useful for those who want to know how to sew a baby body suit – or in fact an adult one. The techniques demonstrated in this video are perfect for all jersey projects. And I get to use my new popper machine!

The popper machine I use in the video can be found at:

https://amzn.to/2TbhACC

You can find the baby onesie block sheet in my etsy shop:

https://www.etsy.com/uk/listing/758583054/baby-body-block-sloper-height-53-cm-to?ref=shop_home_active_10&frs=1

Plus lots more baby blocks and more coming soon!

Nicola x

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The Wrap Over Top – Pattern Development

Pinned on the dress stand in paper.

I love a wrap over top style. This is something you can do with your basic bodice block or you can use this technique and apply it to a pattern you already have.

As this is an a-symmetrical style – you will need to work on a whole front pattern piece. Mirror your basic shape at the center front.

Mirror your pattern piece at the center front – to make a whole front.

It’s always best to move darts out of the way when you are planning a style line – cut along the lines with the little scissors symbols and fold out the darts with the little arrows! Of course if the shape you have doesn’t have darts then you can miss out this step.

See my videos on moving darts to different locations if you want to know more about moving darts.

A clear route to planning the neckline

Now plan the new neckline shaping…

Plan the new neckline from the shoulder – make sure it isn’t too narrow or it may slip off in wear – continue across the center front. You will need a little notch at the center front for fitting. Dip under the bust – making sure you avoid the fullness of the bust shape. Stop at the side seam if you want to or you can add a tie extension here that wraps around the body secures the garment.

Detach the part you don’t need.

Now cut along the neckline and remove the part you don’t need. Now plan the drape lines as shown.

Fold out the last dart.

Cut along the drape lines and fold out the remaining dart and watch the drape lines open up!

Now you can trace around the whole pattern shape. Cut a left and a right side. The little notch you placed at the center front now becomes important – as this is where the left and the right pattern piece will meet at the center front.

Match the center front notches.

Why not give this technique a try – the same method can be used to create a wrap over skirt!

See you soon for more pattern cutting and sewing techniques.

Nicola x

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The Baby Body Block – or Onesie – How to draft a pattern from this basic block

One of my latest blocks sheet is the baby body block – in this video I show you how to create a pattern for a baby onesie. In part 2 of this video series I will cover how to sew the pattern together.

If you get a moment please like the video and place a quick comment – it really helps.

If you would like to take a close look at the block sheet then you can find in in my Etsy shop: https://etsy.me/2ORGqGq

Don’t forget to give me a like, and a comment – I love to hear from you!

See you soon for part 2 when we will sew the onesie together.

Lots more basic blocks and slopers in the pipeline!

Nicola x

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The French Dart

Here is my latest video – creating the French dart – This is part 4 of a series of videos on moving darts. Ideal for new pattern cutters and those wanting to make the most of their basic bodice blocks.

You can find the free half scale blocks (slopers) used in the video in the members area. Simply subscribe for the password.

If you want to take a look at my Modeliste Creative colour blocks range then you can find them here in my Etsy shop – https://etsy.me/36ZnYlq

Watch in YouTube – Please Like – Subscribe and Click the bell for new video notifications – I aim to make one video a week from now on so please let me know if you have any requests.

Nicola x

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Lingerie Series – follow me at the Sewing Directory…

Developing a basic block from your own body measurements.

Part 2 of my 3 part series devoted to making your own lingerie is about to be released at the sewing directory towards the end of this month. If you missed part 1 then you can find it by following the link below

https://www.thesewingdirectory.co.uk/how-to-sew-lingerie-part-one/

Lots of great content!

Part 1 covered drafting your panties basic block – to your own body measurements. In Part 2 I will cover how to sew your toile and test the fit.

If you didn’t get a chance to draft the panties block – don’t worry – I have drafted the block in a range of sizes for you – size 8 UK (4 USA) to size 22 UK ( 18 USA). Simply download and print on A3 paper (see my guide to printing as a poster if you only have an A4 printer)

So feel free to pick up at part 2 and join me again for part 3 where we will look at how to develop this basic knicker shape into a range of different styles.

See you over at The Sewing Directory – for many more articles.

Nicola x

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Baby Blocks (Slopers) – Designing for babies 0 to 2 years.

New Range of Baby Blocks 0 to 2 Years

They have been a long long time in the making, but they are finally ready to launch!

It’s taken a lot longer than I expected to create my new range of baby blocks in my Modeliste Creative range (This is my colour range with high street sizing). The sizing and drafting took a very long time to develop. However the fit trials took forever!

Normally my process is to draft my first block, try it out in the range of sizes and adapt the fit. I have a reliable and very valuable group of very experienced ladies, and men, that are always happy to help.

The wearer trials for my baby range from new born to 24 months proved very difficult to fit. I don’t have many babies in my life now, and it took a long time to find the babies I needed. Also babies grow very quickly so that was another issue. By the time that their busy mums got around to trying the garments on, the babies were no longer in the size bracket I needed! I had to start again so many times. I like to try each and every size I produce and this is even more important with baby blocks. I need to see the block on the wearer and make fit adjustments. Also babies can’t tell you if they are comfortable or not.

How fast they grow!

So far I have finalised the baby body block. This block is perfect for developing baby body patterns. It comes with a sleeve too.

Body Pattern Sheet
Adapt into a range of styles.

The baby stretch / knit bodice was another block I was keen to develop. It has been designed for use with soft jersey fabric.

This comes as 2 A0 Sheets!

I decided to place each bodice block as a separate pattern piece. The grading between each size is as little as 1 millimeter in some areas, less than the thickness of a line, so for accuracy, this was the best way. I have also provided the graded nest as I think that’s important to see. The sleeves are also separate pieces. This set comes as 2 A0 sheets all printed in colour. This increases the price, but I think it’s definitely worth it.

I have also created a baby nappy (diaper) cover block – I have had such fun creating patterns from this block. It can be used for jersey styles in its basic form. It can also be used as a base to add fullness and create some intricate nappy covers.

Use as a base for so many styles!

In the pipeline I have a woven romper block, a woven bodice block for dress development, a coat block – the list goes on!

All blocks will be available in my Etsy shop and on my web site.

Nicola x

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What Will 2020 Bring?

My plans for 2020 – the road ahead.

Happy New Year to all my subscribers. As we start a new year I thought I would let you know my plans for 2020.

I have really enjoyed teaching on a one to one basis this year. My one to one courses have brought students from all over the world, including the U.K. , America, Canada, South Africa and France.

I plan to concentrate on my baby and child blocks and increase the range. I must admit that children’s wear is not my favorite area, but I follow where my customers lead.

New range of baby blocks!

For my own enjoyment I will continue to learn all I can about bra grading, in particular large cup sizes, and I look forward to sharing my journey here with you.

Bra Grading & Making

I am also currently learning to use a new FREE pattern drafting software! I plan to create a range of videos showing how to use the software – watch this space!

If you have any ideas for posts you would like to see then please let me know.

Also why not follow me at the sewing directory as I show you how to draft and make your own made to measure lingerie. In part 1 this month we look at drafting a basic panties block – part 2 will cover making the panties toile and part 3 will show you how to create a range of styles from your basic block.

Find me at the sewing directory……..

2020 will also see me try to get to grips with social media! I also aim to produce many more YouTube videos.

I also have an exciting personal event planned for 2020, but for now I will keep that a secret – it involves loosing some weight first and making a dress!

Making a special dress!

Happy new year to you all – let me know your plans for the year ahead – I would love to hear. Maybe putting them down in writing will help make them happen.

Nicola

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