courses, Current Projects, Grading

Professional Pattern Grading – Theory and Practice – My Brand New Course!

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Welcome to my latest course! Here you will find a detailed outline of my very latest course Professional Pattern Grading Theory & Practice and a short 5 minute video to introduce you to the course, plus lots more information below.

This is an area of study that is quite ‘niche’ and may not appeal to all, but it is one of my passions and something I have spent my whole career studying and practicing.

As with all my courses it has taken me much longer to write than I ever imagined! I decided to cover the theory of grading by looking at skirt grading first, I will cover trouser and bodice and sleeve and children’s wear grading in later courses that will follow on naturally from this course. In this course I take a deep dive into manual pattern grading theory. The course is designed specifically to teach you the in depth theory of grading through skirt grading.

Grading takes many forms within the fashion industry. I have worked with companies that have absolutely no idea where their grading increments came from and can’t explain the process they use to grade. This is not uncommon, as is the lack of accurate sizing data. This makes it impossible for a company to know if they have the correct grading applied and this in turn leads to many problems later on in the production process.

Body sizes are also changing and many if not all grading textbooks now have outdated grade plans and instructions which are based on out of date body sizes. I will show you how to create your own grade plans from scratch!

You may well be reading this post because you want to learn how to grade professionally, I will show you how to grade, and also explain why we grade the way we do. My courses are not quick fixes, they are extremely detailed with lot’s of theory and this particularly applies to this new grading course

The aim of this course is to introduce you to a range of grading methods and also the theory behind the concept of grading, that way you will be able to understand each and every method of grading you come across within the industry.

This course is a little different to my other courses, in that you may find some of the concepts difficult to understand at first, so I urge students to please take their time and review the lessons several times until they understand, it may take a little while to get there but I am confident you will!

Years of practice and teaching have allowed me to hone my skills so that I can present the key information to you clearly.

There are a couple of things worth mentioning before you embark on a grading course.

No doubt this is a complex area and not for everyone. The saying ‘I can explain it to you, but I can’t understand it for you’ comes to mind.

Sometimes grading isn’t easy, particularly when we move to style grading, however I have structured the course so that we build on your knowledge bit by bit and form a good understanding of the key concepts, so that whatever grading system you are faced with in the workplace, you will have the knowledge to understand its origins.

Grading does involve maths, there is no getting past this, Courses that tell you that you can avoid the maths and that they have a simple and easy ‘hack’ to show you, are not teaching you ‘real’ grading.

So if I haven’t put you off, you can find the full course curriculum below and links to join so let’s begin our journey!

Please note that the curriculum may change and adapt as the course grows, this in normal for all my courses as I am continually reviewing and adapting them!

If you choose to join me for the course we will take this journey step by step and build on each lesson as we go.

You will find a selection of videos, lesson notes and PDF downloads to support each lesson.

The start of the course is more theory based and there is no getting away from this, your understanding of the terms used in grading is essential – this will make it easier in the long run as we move on to the more practical lessons.

As with all my courses I am always here to help you along the way. You will find a comments box under each and every lesson, where you can ask questions, or simply let me know how you enjoyed the lesson. I work weekends and evenings, and if I am awake and have a spare moment I will always get back to you.

If you would like to join the course over on teachable please follow this link, or if you have any questions then please email me directly at onitnotinit@mail.com

You can also find my digital grading rulers and sets of basic blocks fully graded in a range of sizes over in my Etsy Shop.

Finally my best tip on how to learn how to grade, the best way to learn how to grade, is to grade!

See you soon I hope!

Nicola

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Consultancy, courses, Current Projects, design and pattern cutting

Professional Pattern Cutting & Consultancy

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Throughout my career, I have found immense value in balancing freelance work with my role as a university lecturer. As a pattern cutter and grader, I have been able to stay deeply connected to the industry, gaining real-world insights and keeping up-to-date with the latest trends and techniques. This hands-on experience not only hones my skills but also allows me to bring practical, industry-relevant knowledge to my students. By working in both academia and the industry, I strike a unique balance that benefits both my students and clients. By staying actively involved in both education and the industry, I can contribute meaningfully to shaping the next generation of fashion professionals while also continuing to learn and evolve in my own practice.

One of the most rewarding aspects of my work is collaborating with diverse clients, I teach online across a range of courses. In this role, I not only teach online courses to staff and students but also develop innovative digital tools and course content. By tailoring my teaching methods to suit the needs of the individal academy or fashion school, I can provide a more enriching and effective learning experience. Additionally, offering guidance on curriculum planning enables me to shape the future of fashion education, ensuring that it remains dynamic and relevant in a constantly evolving industry.

I have recently been working with a designer transitioning from manual pattern cutting to digital pattern cutting. This opens up a multitude of opportunities to enhance their brand. By embracing digital tools, the designer can now sell garment patterns and a range of basic blocks (slopers) as digital products. This shift not only streamlines the design process but also taps into the growing digital market. This transition has significantly boosted the designer’s brand visibility and revenue streams.

Recently taking on a new client writing a pattern cutting book marks an exciting new project. The prospect of utilizing a lifetime of skills and knowledge to assist in this endeavor is both fulfilling and rewarding. Collaborating on a book project allows for creative input, sharing expertise, and contributing to the dissemination of valuable knowledge within the industry. It’s moments like these that showcase the power of continuous learning and adaptation in a dynamic field like fashion design.

Recently completing a top-secret project has freed up some time for consultancy and online support services. This presents a unique opportunity for collaboration with individuals or businesses seeking guidance in navigating the digital landscape or optimizing their design processes. Whether it’s providing expert advice on pattern drafting and grading, teaching and learning, offering insights on creating digital products, or assisting in streamlining workflows, consultancy services can help clients unlock their full potential. By sharing knowledge and expertise, consultants can empower others to thrive in an increasingly digital world.

If you are interested in exploring consultancy or online support services, feel free to reach out. The consultancy and support packages available are tailored to meet the specific needs and goals of each client, ensuring a personalized and impactful collaboration. Whether you are looking to enhance your brand, optimize your design processes, or explore new digital opportunities, working together could unlock exciting possibilities for growth and innovation. Take the first step towards realizing your full potential by reaching out and starting a conversation today.

CONSULTANCY-AND-SUPPORT-PACKAGESDownload

I look forward to hearing about your exciting plans for the future!

Nicola

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courses, Pattern Cutting Techniques

PROFESSIONAL PATTERN GRADING – DIGITAL GRADING RULERS- Increased Speed & Accuracy!

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In my digital pattern cutting course I show my students how to make digital grading rulers, it takes time, but in the long run it saves a lot of valuable time and really increases the accuracy of your grading.

Many of us pattern cutters and graders are now using systems such as Adobe illustrator and Corel Draw to draft and grade patterns, the downside is that we need to find workarounds to grade, as these systems, are not designed for pattern cutters. The good news is that there are several methods which make grading really easy and accurate in Ai. I do most of my grading in Gerber Accumark, but am just as happy grading in Ai, and have used my grading knowledge and skills to create several methods to grade quickly and accurately in Adobe illustrator. I cover this and much more in my course.

Lots of my students have asked if I would produce my digital rulers as a product for sale, so here is the first one! This is the skirt grading ruler set and it comes with both a multi size ruler and a single size up and down.

This video will explain it all!

Let me know what you think, here is the link to the skirt rules on Etsy too!

I am planning a grading course very very soon, I know it’s not for everyone, but it is my passion! Any comments and ideas would be much appreciated!

Nic x

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courses

Bodice Pattern Cutting & Design for Baby, Child, Tween & Teen – New Course!

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Watch my video to find out more!

This is a vast subject area! This course, Pattern Cutting & Design for Babies & Children- (Bodice Development), looks at bodice development and ventures a little into how to adapt a bodice into a simple dress style too, we will also look at some basic collars and of course sleeves. In this post I will outline my plans for future courses too, which will be natural follow on topics from this course and will be released as they are completed as separate courses. I had to break the course down into individual areas to make both the teaching and learning experience more manageable. It’s also critical that you master bodice development first!

In this brand new course we start with bodice blocks, and learn how to first draft and then adapt a basic knit bodice block (sloper) into a woven bodice, a shirt and dress block and an outerwear block. The course also covers how to draft bodice and torso blocks for tween and teen sizes and looks at blocks for developing figures as girls start to mature. In addition to this the course also teaches you how to create a t-shirt draft and further develops that into a raglan and kimono shape, both very popular children’s wear styles.

Our primary focus in this course will be on using a ‘base’ also known as a basic block or sloper to create a variety of styles for children’s wear.

You may ask – What if I don’t like drafting basic blocks (slopers) and I just want to get on to the style development and pattern cutting phase of the course? Well you could skip the drafting part of the course and pick up my Design Cut & Wear basic blocks, already drafted and tested for you and move straight on to the next part of the course which is style development.

I also have a range of basic blocks designed for small fashion startups that can be found here – Modeliste Creative Basic Blocks.

Once you have the basic blocks we move on to look at ‘style develoment’ I have chosen particular styles to incorporate some of the most widely used techniques in childrens wear as you follow me through detailed videos and PDF workbooks. I also often include a PDF version of the block or style I developed in the lesson too that you can download and print!

When it comes to designing and cutting patterns for babies and children, understanding ease is crucial. I will teach you how to draft and adapt patterns to incorporate that ease through the different age bands.

Who is this course for?

If you are an experienced dressmaker, looking to take your skills to the next level, or perhaps a small business owner starting up a children’s wear label and don’t want to go down the road of using the same patterns as your competitors, someone that really wants to set their brand and designs apart from the rest.

You may be a designer that has lot’s of designs buzzing around in your head and want to explore the intricacies of pattern cutting for babies and children, then this is the course for you.

Here is the curriculum – Please take a look to make sure the course is right for you…

please-take-a-look-at-the-curriculum-and-make-sure-the-course-is-right-for-youDownload

Here are the follow on course I will cover in the future – I am working on them already!

TROUSERS AND DUNGAREES – we take a detailed look at trouser drafting and style development.

BABY SPECIFIC MODULE – INCLUDING BABY ONSIES, BABY SLEEP SUITS AND BABY SPECIFIC CLOTHING – INCLUDING A SECTION ON PREMATURE BABY SIZING AND CLOTHING DESIGN

SPECIAL OCCASION DRESS’S AND SKIRTS – INCLUDING OFF PARTS SUCH AS ADVANCED COLLARS, POCKETS AND ADVANCED DESIGN DETAILS.

ACTIVE WEAR FOR CHILDREN, INCLUDING FUNCTIONAL CLOTHING, DANCE WEAR AND SPORTS WEAR – LEOTARDS & SWIMWEAR

ANY IDEAS? – LET ME KNOW IN THE COMMENTS BOX BELOW!

If you feel the course is right for you then you can find more information about prices and joining over in my online pattern cutting school over on teachable! Please note that if the link doesn’t work you may need to copy and paste it into your browser.

https://patterndesignschool.teachable.com

If you have any questions about the course then please email me at onitnotinit@mail.com.

Please note there are 2 joining options, one is a single payment and the other is a payment plan. Both options offer lifetime access to the course and you can dip in and out and learn at your own pace.

I am always there to answer any questions and there are comments box’s below each lesson. I will also be adding extra content at the course grows so keep an eye on my ‘Pattern Maps’ section for new styles.

I don’t offer coupons or ‘price gimmicks’ my courses are one set price and I try to keep course prices as low as I possibly can to make them accessible to many.

If you are brand new to pattern cutting you may want to take a look at my professional pattern cutting course, which will introduce you to the basic principals of pattern cutting. I also offer a digital pattern cutting course too and you can find all my courses over in my school – Modeliste Creative School of Pattern Design.

Happy pattern cutting!

Nicola

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courses

Brand New Course Release! Adobe illustrator for Pattern Cutting – Become an Indie Pattern Designer!

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I am finally ready to release my latest course, Adobe illustrator for Pattern Cutting – The course is aimed at pattern cutters that want to take their skills to the next level and create beautiful, accurate, digital patterns – using the tools available in Adobe illustrator.

The first short video below will introduce you to the course, the second will give you some more detail about the course structure. You can also download the lesson plan file as PDF to take a closer look.

You will find that there are almost 100 lessons and nearly as many videos – it’s a detailed course!

The course is available as three options –

The first option is to join the course – with practice blocks supplied in single sizes.

The second option is to join the course with a full set of digital layered Modeliste Creative blocks supplied as Ai files – This includes the skirt, trouser, bodice & sleeve blocks sets is sizes 6-18UK (2 – 14 USA) plus the A-line skirt set in sizes 6-22 UK (2-18 USA) – to get you off to a fantastic start!

The third option comes with all that is mentioned above PLUS 2 hours one to one mentorship from me – if you are setting up an ‘indie’ pattern business this is a fantastic option – Places on the course with mentorship are limited so please ask if you find the course is full as I can place you on my waiting list and let you know when the next place will be available.

AI-FOR-PATTERN-CUTTERS-COURSE-OUTLINE-MODELISTE-CREATIVE-SCHOOL-OF-PATTERN-CUTTING

As always if you have any questions please email me at onitnotinit@mail.com.

Here is a link straight to my teachable school – hope to see you there!

https://patterndesignschool.teachable.com

Nicola x

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courses

Online Professional Pattern Cutting Course – Now Live!

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Professional Pattern Cutting Course

After months of planning, writing and filming videos I am now ready to launch the ‘Professional Pattern Cutting Course’.

If you are a beginner or someone that wants to learn professional pattern cutting methods and build good solid working practice then this course will suit you. The course starts from the very foundations of pattern cutting and builds on that knowledge to develop a thorough grounding in pattern cutting. If you feel you have gaps in your knowledge and want a detailed, professional education in pattern cutting then you have come to the right place!

With Over 80 lessons and over 50 videos in the ‘Professional Pattern Cutting Course’ I think you will agree that the course has a great deal of valuable content!

If you feel you already have a good grounding in pattern cutting then please take a look at my other courses, if you would like to take your pattern cutting to the next level –

The Professional Pattern Cutting Course course will be a stepping stone to my more advanced courses which will include – Adobe Illustrator for Pattern Cutters, (which has just been released) – Advanced Pattern Cutting Course which will be released soon after. I also have a Draping Course and a Pattern Cutting for Babies and Children’s’ Wear Course planned! I also can’t wait to have the time to write a Grading Course.

Below you can watch a quick video (called a ‘supercut’ – my husband tells me!) that shows you all the sections of The Professional Pattern Cutting Course.

Professional Pattern Cutting Course ‘Supercut’

The ‘Professional Pattern Cutting Course’ has 3 parts.

The first part is made up of 15 lessons, with some videos, where appropriate. It gives you all the background and essential knowledge you need to understand pattern cutting. This section can be used as a reference guide, whilst you are free to read it all in one go it is really intended to be something you dip in and out of as you need to. Used in this way it is also more likely that the information will sink in.

The second part of the course is much more practical, we start with skirts and move on to bodice pattern cutting including rotating darts. Bodices are followed by trouser styles, drafting collars and finally basic sleeve pattern cutting.

The lessons are structured in a way that means you read my lesson notes that describe the pattern cutting steps in great details and then watch the video that supports the notes.

Section 3 of the course gets to the ‘nitty gritty’ of pattern cutting. Here I guide you through the finer details of pattern cutting, adding button stands, fitting lines etc. I will also cover darts in great details and you will learn how to pivot darts professionally.

There are lots of PDF’s to download, and charts as well as a set of quarter and half scale blocks for you to download and follow along. Obviously you can follow along in full scale, using your own blocks, if you prefer. I work in half scale for the course so that the whole process can fit into the video frame, this means you can see everything I am doing.

If all that wasn’t enough I have also added a number of bonus modules that cover pattern drafting for shirts and blouse styles and I show you my favourite shirt draft!

I cover the importance of technical sketches and also introduce you to draping on the dress stand.

I couldn’t resist adding a section in to start you drafting your own blocks, if you choose to.

Finally a section of the course that I intend to build and add to as the course grows – called PATTERN MAPS.

In PATTERN MAPS I intend to add visual guides to pattern drafts to inspire you!

If you have any further questions about the course then feel free to email me at onitnotinit@mail.com – I am always happy to answer any questions you may have.

To have a closer look at all my course please click the image below.

Please follow this link to see an up to date version of all my courses https://patterndesignschool.teachable.com/

If you have any questions at all then please let me know at nicola@patterndesignschool.co.uk

Happy Pattern Cutting!

Nicola

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Beginners Pattern Drafting Info, courses, Current Projects, Free Downloads, half scale blocks, Pattern Cutting Techniques, practice blocks

Bodice Dart Manipulation Part 2…both darts at the waist.

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Daisy in her half scale bodice block.

Here we have part 2 in the 6 part series on how to move darts around the bodice block. Please take a look and be sure to give me a thumbs up in YouTube and leave a comment or a question. If you subscribe you will be sure to catch all my upcoming videos!

The class materials and half scale blocks are in the members only area here on my blog page, once you are subscribed you will be sent the password!

Click to watch in YouTube and be sure to subscribe.

Many thanks for watching and if you have any ideas for pattern cutting videos, please let me know.

See you very soon with part 3!

Nicola

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courses

Modeliste Creative 2018 Pattern Cutting Workshop Complete!

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My very first residential course held in France over the past week has now come to an end!

We covered much more than I anticipated as both ladies already have degrees in fashion and both have worked overseas, this meant we could move through the basics very quickly and progress to drafting blocks and developing and grading patterns specific to their needs.

We also managed to squeeze in a creative day where we looked at modelling on the dress stand and also directly on the body! We even managed  a couple of fabric buying trips!

It was wonderful to be teaching again and in such a relaxing environment!

 

 

We drafted basic blocks to body measurements and even drafted a range of children’s wear blocks!

Thank you to my students Lizzie and Shu-Ling, you were perfect students and worked hard to gain the skills you both need to set up your new fashion brands!

I am looking forward to my next course in May and also keep posted for specialist lingerie and bra making courses coming soon!

Nicola x

 

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courses

Dates For My Spring 2019 Pattern Cutting Course!

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Spring Pattern Cutting Course

Join me at our beautiful restored farmhouse in rural France. Learn pattern cutting, or improve your pattern cutting skills, in an informal and relaxed learning environment whilst enjoying the French countryside and taking in a bit of French culture.

The course will take place from Monday 20th May to Friday 24th May, with arrival on Sunday 19th May and departure on Saturday 25th May. All meals are included from dinner on the night before the course starts to breakfast on the morning of departure.

We understand that flights can be on different days from different parts of the world, so if you would like to book in for extra nights either side of the specified dates this can be arranged at a cost of £60.00 per room per night. We can also arrange airport pickup from La Rochelle, Nantes or Poitiers Airports.

The courses are designed for a maximum of 4 or 5 people, to allow for each person’s individual learning needs to be addressed, so if you are a beginner or an advanced pattern cutter we can develop your skills further.

If you have a partner that would like to join you but does not wish to take part in the course, this can easily be arranged.

Take a look at our gite Facebook page for pictures of our accommodation for a closer look at our setting and our rooms.

Course Plan

Day 1 – let’s see what you know and what you need to know.

This is an opportunity for everyone to review their skills level and to formulate an individual learning plan, to ensure everyone, whether you are a beginner or a seasoned pattern cutter, gets the most out of the coming week.

Day 2 – let’s push your creative pattern cutting skills to their limits

Modelling on the dress stand, learn the skills of ‘French Moulage’ and allow your creative pattern cutting skills to flourish.

Day 3 – Pattern cutting for stretch fabrics

We live in knit fabrics; let’s take a day to understand how to create patterns for stretch garments.

Day 4 – Style readings

Test your skills and test my skills as you develop patterns for a garment of your own design, there is no better way to learn!

Day 5 – The essentials you need to progress

Let’s take a look at grading and sizing and fit.

The cost of the course is £650 per person, for one of our private double rooms, including all meals and complimentary wine and a meal at a local restaurant. Additional non course attending guests sharing the double room can be added for a cost of £325.00.

To find more details about the accommodation take a look at:

https://www.facebook.com/lapetitegite

If you would like to book a place on the course just drop me an e-mail at:

nicola@modelistecreative.com and I will send you a booking form.

Happy Pattern Cutting,

Nicola

 

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Beginners Pattern Drafting Info, courses, Current Projects, design and pattern cutting, free blocks, Free Downloads, General Info, half scale blocks, intensive pattern cutting course, Learning guide, pattern cutting course in france, practice blocks, scaled blocks, workshops

A Free Half Scale Dress Block! – As A Thank You!!

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Thank You & some exciting Information about my upcoming course!

Thanks to all my blog subscribers that took the time to subscribed to my YouTube channel! I am now well over my target 100 subscribers – as a Thank You – I have uploaded a free half scale dress block and it’s in the subscribers bonus contents page for you! Plus some more exciting news below about my upcoming pattern cutting course in France.

Just a little note about scaled blocks – first

When you are practising your pattern cutting, or even developing a style, it’s sometimes useful to do your initial experimentation with half or quarter scale blocks!

This can save paper, however I do recommend using full scale blocks as much as you can – why you may ask?

Working in full scale helps you develop an ‘eye’ for proportion and scale, its amazing, as you become more proficient in pattern drafting, you develop a second sense and can tell immediately when something doesn’t quite measure up. This is a difficult skill to master if you always work in quarter or half scale.

However scaled block do have their place and are perfect for sketch books and experimentation.

I am pleased to announce (dates to be confirmed) that I can now offer a weeks intensive pattern cutting course in France, during September. The course will be limited to 3 or 4 people and will be fully catered. Plus each course member will receive a full set of my Modeliste Creative Colour Blocks! More details and pictures of the accommodation will be available on my courses and professional development page very soon. If you are interested in the course please get in touch!

Thanks again!

Nicola

 

 

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