For those of you that read my monthly magazine article in the French Publication DSM, here is a more detailed run through of the latest project. For everyone else, why not give this a try!
Part 1 – Designing and Making Your Bespoke Flared Skirt
Have you ever wanted to make something that fits you perfectly? Here is your chance to learn how to create the pattern for this versatile 8 panel skirt, it is as simple as making 1 panel and cutting it out 8 times in fabric!
In part 2 of this project I will cover the skills you need to sew the skirt.
Step 1 – Fill in your measurements on the handy chart below.
For this example I have inserted the average measurements for a size 12 in PINK for you to follow, you will of course have to substitute your own measurements for the pink ones!
Measure your waist and add some extra for movement, it you want a fitted skirt add approximately 2 cm extra. If you want a looser skirt you can add a little more. If you want to use a knitted fabric no extra above your actual body measurement is needed. Now divide this total by 8 as illustrated above.
Do the same for your top hip, this lies at 10 cm below your waist and the same for your hip which lies at 21 cm below your waist line. Decide on the skirt length you would like – we now have all the measurements we need for you to make your pattern!
Step 2 – draw a vertical line on a large sheet of paper, the line needs to be slightly longer than the skirt length you have chosen. At the top of the line draw a horizontal line to represent the waist – each side of this line you can place the measurement you calculated for your waist (4.6 for my example placed equally each side of the centre). Ten centimeters below the waist level do the same for the top hip and again for the full hip. You can square down from the hip until you hit the line extended out for the length of skirt. Make the skirt long for an elegant evening version, or shorter for a flouncy summer skirt!
Step 3 – Now to add some flare! Decide where you would like the flare to ‘flare’ from. This can be as high up as the hip if you want. Place a horizontal line at this level to mark the flare line. Cut up the centre of the panel and to the side of the flare line and spread the pieces as illustrated below. You can open then as much or as little as you like, so long as they are opened equally each side.
Step 4 – place the pieces on a new sheet of paper and trace the shape you have created. The waist can be shaped gently by extending the waist line up by 0.5 cm each side and gently curving at the centre.
Step 5 – all you need to do now is add some seam allowance and your main pattern piece is complete!
Step 6 – the waist can be finished in several ways, the simplest way is to cut an exact copy of the top of the skirt at a depth of 6 cm from the waist line, this will be your facing panel and you will also cut the pattern piece 8 times in fabric.
You now have your pattern – in part 2 I will show you how to sew this lovely skirt and then we can take a look at how to develop the skirt for a knit fabric with an elasticated waist!
See you next month for part 2 – sewing the paneled skirt.
Nicola x
