I often get asked for pattern help and every now and again I post the help on my blog, my customer has recently purchased the contour fitted dress blocks to help her make these lovely saree blouses. This block is available as a PDF download as well as a printed pattern sheet.

Here is her question and I will answer it below…..I have just bought the contour fitted dress blocks as have been asked to make saree blouses (see pics) which normally are very fitted and very low backs. I just have a query re: do I just take the waist dart out completely and if there is gaping (after the neck is cut in back) to remove this to the waist or?? also, I assume the back neck dart is simply removed as part of the design. thanks.

Lets take a look at what to do with the darts for this style first.

The first step for this style is to plan the style lines, as illustrated in purple above, don’t plan the neckline yet, as we need to close out the darts first.

Trace the side panel first and close out the dart, then trace the center front panel and close the shoulder darts and the neckline dart so that all the shaping goes into the princess line seam. Trace the final pattern pieces. Plan the neckline on the center front panel after the darts have been closed out.

The back

Trace the 2 back sections and combine so that you close out the dart, keep the center back straight as this is your grain reference.

Plan a small dart at the back neckline as shown above.

Fold out the small wedge so that you take a little of the extra ease that is in the block, this will stop the back neckline gaping. Trace the final shape.

I hope this helps!

Happy Pattern Cutting!

Nicola