What should you do if you are shorter or taller than the pattern or block measurements?
We are not all the same size or shape, even bodies with the same girth measurements can be completely different shapes.
If you need to adjust a pattern or block to fit your own height (vertical measurements) then please follow the directions below, in order to maintain the correct shape.
- Measure yourself between the shoulder and the bust point. If your measurements are greatly different to the block or pattern you are using then you can make adjustments by cutting along the upper purple line illustrated below. Either add or subtract the quantity you need. The same must be done at the front, back and sleeve.
- The second area you may feel you need to make a change is the nape to waist length. This is quite a common adjustment to make. For example most patterns are drafted for an average height of 5 feet and 2 inches. I am 5 feet and ¼ inch tall; therefore I always need to make a change here if I am drafting a block or pattern to a standard set of measurements.
- The next area you may need to make an adjustment is the waist to hip level; again this is quite a common one if you are tall or short!
- Hip to hem is really not a critical measurement in terms of fit, as there is very little fitting in a basic block below the hip level, however personal preference may influence your decision here.
The sleeve pattern or block will need to be adjusted in line with the bodice or dress block at the center of the sleeve head. If you are adding length between the shoulder and bust level then you will also need to add length through the armhole.
There are 2 other possible areas that you may need to make adjustments on the sleeve pattern or block.
- Between the sleeve head and the elbow, it is important to remember, when changes are made to the length of the sleeve, the elbow must remains in the correct place.
- Also between the elbow and the hem.
These changes can be made by carefully measuring the body and carefully measuring the block or pattern, however the assessment of the fit can only be made when the garment is sewn. This is why most pattern cutters make a ‘toile’ (a trail garment). This way fit can be perfected at the toile stage.
The purple lines on the illustration provided show the recommended areas where fit adjustments should be made.
I plan to write a post on how to adjust the trouser block to suit a shorter or taller body, make sure you are subscribed to keep up with all my pattern making and sewing posts!
Nicola x
